I'd love to hear critique of proposed method of hoisting boat. At some point I'll need to take a look at my bottom... Somehow hanging boat from four points seems sketchy, but I keep reminding myself that those points are pretty bomber. They are, right...? On Mon, Apr 13, 2015 at 1:39 PM, < montgomery_boats-request@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
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Today's Topics:
1. Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale (David Grah) 2. Re: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale (stevetrapp) 3. Looking for M15 345 (Tom Smith) 4. Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom (David Grah) 5. Re: Looking for M15 345 (Thomas Buzzi) 6. Re: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom (Thomas Buzzi) 7. Re: Looking for M15 345 (peter kunst) 8. Re: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom (Robert Hall) 9. Re: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale (Chris Smith) 10. Re: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom (swwheatley@comcast.net) 11. Re: Looking for M15 345 (Tom Smith) 12. Re: Looking for M15 345 (Tom Smith) 13. Re: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom (Dave Scobie) 14. Re: Looking for M15 345 (stevetrapp)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1 Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 00:20:43 +0000 (UTC) From: David Grah <d_b_grah@yahoo.com> To: For and About Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale Message-ID: <684751628.1420791.1428884443148.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
I wanted a longer tiller for my Montgomery 15 so bought a nice laminated curved one from J O Woodworks. I wasn't sure if that bought one was long enough so I also made an even longer simple straight one out of oak to try out. The tiller I made makes it easier to sit forward and doesn't get in the way too much, even with 5 people in the cockpit (with some water coming up through the centerboard drain hole). As a result, I think I will try to find a good home for the nice J O Woodworks tiller. I think I paid around $90. Is anyone interested?
The tiller that came with the boat when I bought it used (it's a 1986 model) is 34 and 7/8 inches long from end to end. The J O Woodworks one is 40 and 5/8 inches long, and the one I made is 43 and 7/8 inches.
David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky
------------------------------
Message: 2 Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 17:53:36 -0700 From: "stevetrapp" <stevetrapp@q.com> To: "David Grah" <d_b_grah@yahoo.com>, "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale Message-ID: <4F33556D23DE497595E61FEC50B6296A@STEVEEW> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=original
Are you selling only the tiller or the whole rudder too? Do you have a photo? Any idea how much it might cost to ship to Olympia, Washington? Steve M-15 # 335
----- Original Message ----- From: "David Grah via montgomery_boats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> To: "For and About Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 5:20 PM Subject: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale
I wanted a longer tiller for my Montgomery 15 so bought a nice laminated curved one from J O Woodworks. I wasn't sure if that bought one was long enough so I also made an even longer simple straight one out of oak to try out. The tiller I made makes it easier to sit forward and doesn't get in the way too much, even with 5 people in the cockpit (with some water coming up through the centerboard drain hole). As a result, I think I will try to find a good home for the nice J O Woodworks tiller. I think I paid around $90. Is anyone interested?
The tiller that came with the boat when I bought it used (it's a 1986 model) is 34 and 7/8 inches long from end to end. The J O Woodworks one is 40 and 5/8 inches long, and the one I made is 43 and 7/8 inches.
David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky
----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4800 / Virus Database: 4311/9521 - Release Date: 04/12/15
------------------------------
Message: 3 Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 17:54:43 -0700 From: Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 Message-ID: < CA+3pONKzuGsFABgW7n+eYbeSnZ7sBp+Lr2mx0f9h79w4RPw-XA@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. Named Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? Probably mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom
------------------------------
Message: 4 Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 01:07:55 +0000 (UTC) From: David Grah <d_b_grah@yahoo.com> To: For and About Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom Message-ID: <1553399902.1441327.1428887275386.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
I'm planning to refinish the bottom of my Montgomery 15 soon and have no experience doing such a thing. I wondered if the group had any comments or suggestions on my planned approach. The boat has several coats of blue ablative bottom paint on it now. They look bad. They are faded and the upper edge of the bottom pain doesn't follow the waterline very well on the starboard side.The boat probably won't be in the water for more than a week at a time for as long as I own it and is usually in fresh water when it is in the water. The hull is white with a blue stripe at the top.
I plan to mount 4 - 4 inch by 4 inch posts, 8 foot long, in my garage. The bottoms of the posts will rest on the garage slab and the tops will be bolted or screwed to the joists in the garage. I will brace the joists with diagonal 2 inch by 4 inch to the garage walls (these 2 by 4's are along the bottom of the joists to the plate at the top of the wall). The posts will support the boat and the joists will keep the posts vertical. If things go right there will be very little load on the joists.
I'll nail 3/4 inch plywood squares to the tops of the posts and cut groves in the edges to run 1/8 inch cables. I'll move the boat on the trailer into the garage and jack the trailer up a few inches and put it on blocks. I will attach 1/8 inch cables to the back unused holes where the shrouds attach at the edge of the boat and to the cleats on either side at the stern of the boat and loop the cables over the tops of the posts and clamp them.Then I would lower and remove the trailer. When working on the boat, I would place "kickers" under the lip at the hull to deck joint on the side I am working on to lessen the changes that the boat would roll toward me if it came down for some reason. I would also put blocks under the keel. I would use Citristrip stripping gel to remove most of the bottom paint. I have tested it after it was recommended in this group and found it works well. Depending how hard I scrape it can take off some of the gel coat under the bottom paint as well. I'd wipe the bottom with paint thinner and sand it with 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the remaining blue bottom paint residue. I'd wipe it down with acetone and then sand again with 220 grit sandpaper, probably wet, and wipe with acetone again. I think I will be left with white gel coat over the bottom stained slightly blue. I'd brush on two coats of off-white Interlux Brightside one-part paint up to about 1/4 inch above the top of the old bottom paint and then add a two coat red stripe about 4 inches wide to cover the uneven top of the current bottom paint on the starboard side. I figure the new Interlux won't match the gelcoat so need something to cover this transition. The edge of where the current bottom paint is would always be within the red strip by at least an inch. I'd put the trailer back under the boat and jack it up to take the weight of the posts and the cables, then lower the trailer and take the boat out of the garage and hopefully be done. Does this seem workable? Anything I should plan to do differently? Thanks!
David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky
------------------------------
Message: 5 Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 22:01:57 -0500 From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 Message-ID: < CA+TbpAWvMtdf_WsuShG4cqwK3MtGavsp4LVoPC0QrOzTut43Bw@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Hey Tom, I am curious. What is so special about this particular boat? Is it an M17? Tom B
On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 7:54 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. Named Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? Probably mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom
------------------------------
Message: 6 Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 22:10:06 -0500 From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: David Grah <d_b_grah@yahoo.com>, For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom Message-ID: <CA+TbpAXJh=UCiukYYgpw5Qq4g+8NR13CgRgqsL6vdpykjjT= ww@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
David, I used that Citrustrip and found it is sensitive to the humidity. Dry days require about 25-30 minutes to soften two layers of bottom paint. Humid days can take as long as 40 minutes. If you time it right by testing a small section the paint will skive off like butter with a blunt putty knife with the blade edges rounded to match the radius of the corners of the planks in the hull. I was also able to use a plastic putty knife on most of it so damaging the gelcoat was not an issue. If you wait too long the stuff gets hard again. When I applied the stripper I loaded the brush and made one pass in one direction with each 3 inch brush load. That seemed to work the best. If you try to stretch out the coverage the stuff will not work nearly as well. Buy at least a gallon to get yourself started on the 15, it will be cheaper than buying three quarts, one at a time. Tom B
On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 8:07 PM, David Grah via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
I'm planning to refinish the bottom of my Montgomery 15 soon and have no experience doing such a thing. I wondered if the group had any comments or suggestions on my planned approach. The boat has several coats of blue ablative bottom paint on it now. They look bad. They are faded and the upper edge of the bottom pain doesn't follow the waterline very well on the starboard side.The boat probably won't be in the water for more than a week at a time for as long as I own it and is usually in fresh water when it is in the water. The hull is white with a blue stripe at the top.
I plan to mount 4 - 4 inch by 4 inch posts, 8 foot long, in my garage. The bottoms of the posts will rest on the garage slab and the tops will be bolted or screwed to the joists in the garage. I will brace the joists with diagonal 2 inch by 4 inch to the garage walls (these 2 by 4's are along the bottom of the joists to the plate at the top of the wall). The posts will support the boat and the joists will keep the posts vertical. If things go right there will be very little load on the joists.
I'll nail 3/4 inch plywood squares to the tops of the posts and cut groves in the edges to run 1/8 inch cables. I'll move the boat on the trailer into the garage and jack the trailer up a few inches and put it on blocks. I will attach 1/8 inch cables to the back unused holes where the shrouds attach at the edge of the boat and to the cleats on either side at the stern of the boat and loop the cables over the tops of the posts and clamp them.Then I would lower and remove the trailer. When working on the boat, I would place "kickers" under the lip at the hull to deck joint on the side I am working on to lessen the changes that the boat would roll toward me if it came down for some reason. I would also put blocks under the keel. I would use Citristrip stripping gel to remove most of the bottom paint. I have tested it after it was recommended in this group and found it works well. Depending how hard I scrape it can take off some of the gel coat under the bottom paint as well. I'd wipe the bottom with paint thinner and sand it with 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the remaining blue bottom paint residue. I'd wipe it down with acetone and then sand again with 220 grit sandpaper, probably wet, and wipe with acetone again. I think I will be left with white gel coat over the bottom stained slightly blue. I'd brush on two coats of off-white Interlux Brightside one-part paint up to about 1/4 inch above the top of the old bottom paint and then add a two coat red stripe about 4 inches wide to cover the uneven top of the current bottom paint on the starboard side. I figure the new Interlux won't match the gelcoat so need something to cover this transition. The edge of where the current bottom paint is would always be within the red strip by at least an inch. I'd put the trailer back under the boat and jack it up to take the weight of the posts and the cables, then lower the trailer and take the boat out of the garage and hopefully be done. Does this seem workable? Anything I should plan to do differently? Thanks!
David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky
------------------------------
Message: 7 Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 03:22:04 +0000 From: peter kunst <peterkunstt@hotmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 Message-ID: <BLU175-W456645DC4CF69764F00BDABAE70@phx.gbl> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hey Tom, If I am not mistaken Chukar is a M-15 from Sandpoint Id, That was photographed on lake Pend Oreille Id, and used on the Motgomery 15 sales brochure Best Regards,Pete
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 22:01:57 -0500 From: thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345
Hey Tom, I am curious. What is so special about this particular boat? Is it an M17? Tom B
On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 7:54 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. Named Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? Probably mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom
------------------------------
Message: 8 Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 00:28:36 -0400 From: Robert Hall <bert.hall@bell.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom Message-ID: <BLU437-SMTP90DBD2F73DD4F1B8121C198AE70@phx.gbl> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=original
Hi, The best advice I can offer is to have the M15 bottom stripped professionally. Two years past my hull was in similar state to yours , the method you are proposing to get access to the bottom is similar to the one I dreamed up and I also used a stripper like that you describe.The job was a night mare mostly due to the lap strake configuration of the hull. I spent the best part of two weeks just removing the blue bottom coat and disposing of the detritus. Next came hours of sanding followed by two coats of resin and then two coats of copper based anti fouling. I swore never to repeat that undertaking. If you go ahead, you will need approximately 5 quarts of the citrus product,a variety of scraping tools, a good tarp to put under the hull,lots of disposable clothing ,mask ,goggles and lots of rags .Material costs should run between 3 &4 hundred $ Best of British Luck and the patience of Job.. RTH.
-----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 11:10 PM To: David Grah ; For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom
David, I used that Citrustrip and found it is sensitive to the humidity. Dry days require about 25-30 minutes to soften two layers of bottom paint. Humid days can take as long as 40 minutes. If you time it right by testing a small section the paint will skive off like butter with a blunt putty knife with the blade edges rounded to match the radius of the corners of the planks in the hull. I was also able to use a plastic putty knife on most of it so damaging the gelcoat was not an issue. If you wait too long the stuff gets hard again. When I applied the stripper I loaded the brush and made one pass in one direction with each 3 inch brush load. That seemed to work the best. If you try to stretch out the coverage the stuff will not work nearly as well. Buy at least a gallon to get yourself started on the 15, it will be cheaper than buying three quarts, one at a time. Tom B
On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 8:07 PM, David Grah via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
I'm planning to refinish the bottom of my Montgomery 15 soon and have no experience doing such a thing. I wondered if the group had any comments or suggestions on my planned approach. The boat has several coats of blue ablative bottom paint on it now. They look bad. They are faded and the upper edge of the bottom pain doesn't follow the waterline very well on the starboard side.The boat probably won't be in the water for more than a week at a time for as long as I own it and is usually in fresh water when it is in the water. The hull is white with a blue stripe at the top.
I plan to mount 4 - 4 inch by 4 inch posts, 8 foot long, in my garage. The bottoms of the posts will rest on the garage slab and the tops will be bolted or screwed to the joists in the garage. I will brace the joists with diagonal 2 inch by 4 inch to the garage walls (these 2 by 4's are along the bottom of the joists to the plate at the top of the wall). The posts will support the boat and the joists will keep the posts vertical. If things go right there will be very little load on the joists.
I'll nail 3/4 inch plywood squares to the tops of the posts and cut groves in the edges to run 1/8 inch cables. I'll move the boat on the trailer into the garage and jack the trailer up a few inches and put it on blocks. I will attach 1/8 inch cables to the back unused holes where the shrouds attach at the edge of the boat and to the cleats on either side at the stern of the boat and loop the cables over the tops of the posts and clamp them.Then I would lower and remove the trailer. When working on the boat, I would place "kickers" under the lip at the hull to deck joint on the side I am working on to lessen the changes that the boat would roll toward me if it came down for some reason. I would also put blocks under the keel. I would use Citristrip stripping gel to remove most of the bottom paint. I have tested it after it was recommended in this group and found it works well. Depending how hard I scrape it can take off some of the gel coat under the bottom paint as well. I'd wipe the bottom with paint thinner and sand it with 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the remaining blue bottom paint residue. I'd wipe it down with acetone and then sand again with 220 grit sandpaper, probably wet, and wipe with acetone again. I think I will be left with white gel coat over the bottom stained slightly blue. I'd brush on two coats of off-white Interlux Brightside one-part paint up to about 1/4 inch above the top of the old bottom paint and then add a two coat red stripe about 4 inches wide to cover the uneven top of the current bottom paint on the starboard side. I figure the new Interlux won't match the gelcoat so need something to cover this transition. The edge of where the current bottom paint is would always be within the red strip by at least an inch. I'd put the trailer back under the boat and jack it up to take the weight of the posts and the cables, then lower the trailer and take the boat out of the garage and hopefully be done. Does this seem workable? Anything I should plan to do differently? Thanks!
David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky
------------------------------
Message: 9 Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 08:53:43 -0500 From: Chris Smith <chris.r.smith@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale Message-ID: < CAPkEqajZxME8tf7ccq3aSiOqnjAtAkMYaZkpJ16VgubmZzgezw@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Is the original one in good condition? I may be interested in that one. How much?
Thanks, Chris
On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 7:53 PM, stevetrapp <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote:
Are you selling only the tiller or the whole rudder too? Do you have a photo? Any idea how much it might cost to ship to Olympia, Washington? Steve M-15 # 335
----- Original Message ----- From: "David Grah via montgomery_boats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> To: "For and About Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman. xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 5:20 PM Subject: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale
I wanted a longer tiller for my Montgomery 15 so bought a nice laminated
curved one from J O Woodworks. I wasn't sure if that bought one was long enough so I also made an even longer simple straight one out of oak to try out. The tiller I made makes it easier to sit forward and doesn't get in the way too much, even with 5 people in the cockpit (with some water coming up through the centerboard drain hole). As a result, I think I will try to find a good home for the nice J O Woodworks tiller. I think I paid around $90. Is anyone interested?
The tiller that came with the boat when I bought it used (it's a 1986 model) is 34 and 7/8 inches long from end to end. The J O Woodworks one is 40 and 5/8 inches long, and the one I made is 43 and 7/8 inches.
David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky
----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4800 / Virus Database: 4311/9521 - Release Date: 04/12/15
-- Chris
------------------------------
Message: 10 Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 15:53:26 +0000 (UTC) From: swwheatley@comcast.net To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom Message-ID: <141169220.4321704.1428940406126.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Interlux Brightside is not marketed as a below the waterline paint. If you're sure you do not want any antifouling protection, you might want to consider Interlux VC Epoxy instead.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Hall" <bert.hall@bell.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 12:28:36 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom
Hi, The best advice I can offer is to have the M15 bottom stripped professionally. Two years past my hull was in similar state to yours , the method you are proposing to get access to the bottom is similar to the one I dreamed up and I also used a stripper like that you describe.The job was a night mare mostly due to the lap strake configuration of the hull. I spent the best part of two weeks just removing the blue bottom coat and disposing of the detritus. Next came hours of sanding followed by two coats of resin and then two coats of copper based anti fouling. I swore never to repeat that undertaking. If you go ahead, you will need approximately 5 quarts of the citrus product,a variety of scraping tools, a good tarp to put under the hull,lots of disposable clothing ,mask ,goggles and lots of rags .Material costs should run between 3 &4 hundred $ Best of British Luck and the patience of Job.. RTH.
-----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 11:10 PM To: David Grah ; For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom
David, I used that Citrustrip and found it is sensitive to the humidity. Dry days require about 25-30 minutes to soften two layers of bottom paint. Humid days can take as long as 40 minutes. If you time it right by testing a small section the paint will skive off like butter with a blunt putty knife with the blade edges rounded to match the radius of the corners of the planks in the hull. I was also able to use a plastic putty knife on most of it so damaging the gelcoat was not an issue. If you wait too long the stuff gets hard again. When I applied the stripper I loaded the brush and made one pass in one direction with each 3 inch brush load. That seemed to work the best. If you try to stretch out the coverage the stuff will not work nearly as well. Buy at least a gallon to get yourself started on the 15, it will be cheaper than buying three quarts, one at a time. Tom B
On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 8:07 PM, David Grah via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
I'm planning to refinish the bottom of my Montgomery 15 soon and have no experience doing such a thing. I wondered if the group had any comments or suggestions on my planned approach. The boat has several coats of blue ablative bottom paint on it now. They look bad. They are faded and the upper edge of the bottom pain doesn't follow the waterline very well on the starboard side.The boat probably won't be in the water for more than a week at a time for as long as I own it and is usually in fresh water when it is in the water. The hull is white with a blue stripe at the top.
I plan to mount 4 - 4 inch by 4 inch posts, 8 foot long, in my garage. The bottoms of the posts will rest on the garage slab and the tops will be bolted or screwed to the joists in the garage. I will brace the joists with diagonal 2 inch by 4 inch to the garage walls (these 2 by 4's are along the bottom of the joists to the plate at the top of the wall). The posts will support the boat and the joists will keep the posts vertical. If things go right there will be very little load on the joists.
I'll nail 3/4 inch plywood squares to the tops of the posts and cut groves in the edges to run 1/8 inch cables. I'll move the boat on the trailer into the garage and jack the trailer up a few inches and put it on blocks. I will attach 1/8 inch cables to the back unused holes where the shrouds attach at the edge of the boat and to the cleats on either side at the stern of the boat and loop the cables over the tops of the posts and clamp them.Then I would lower and remove the trailer. When working on the boat, I would place "kickers" under the lip at the hull to deck joint on the side I am working on to lessen the changes that the boat would roll toward me if it came down for some reason. I would also put blocks under the keel. I would use Citristrip stripping gel to remove most of the bottom paint. I have tested it after it was recommended in this group and found it works well. Depending how hard I scrape it can take off some of the gel coat under the bottom paint as well. I'd wipe the bottom with paint thinner and sand it with 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the remaining blue bottom paint residue. I'd wipe it down with acetone and then sand again with 220 grit sandpaper, probably wet, and wipe with acetone again. I think I will be left with white gel coat over the bottom stained slightly blue. I'd brush on two coats of off-white Interlux Brightside one-part paint up to about 1/4 inch above the top of the old bottom paint and then add a two coat red stripe about 4 inches wide to cover the uneven top of the current bottom paint on the starboard side. I figure the new Interlux won't match the gelcoat so need something to cover this transition. The edge of where the current bottom paint is would always be within the red strip by at least an inch. I'd put the trailer back under the boat and jack it up to take the weight of the posts and the cables, then lower the trailer and take the boat out of the garage and hopefully be done. Does this seem workable? Anything I should plan to do differently? Thanks!
David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky
------------------------------
Message: 11 Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 09:03:59 -0700 From: Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 Message-ID: <CA+3pONL_4bVrQzquWGuUHTBz7= X0XOo4VtyAZjd_Nsh27OQVLQ@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
No Tom. It's a 1986 M15. t
On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 8:01 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hey Tom, I am curious. What is so special about this particular boat? Is it an M17? Tom B
On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 7:54 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. Named Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? Probably mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom
------------------------------
Message: 12 Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 09:09:55 -0700 From: Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 Message-ID: <CA+3pON+iPhgmvbn4n4rB4gZ6AfAaD9oqf3+F6f= v_Xkg7mDFZQ@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Yes, Jane and I sailed *Chukar* out of Sandpoint at the time Bob created that brochure.
For what it's worth, this boat placed 1st in the 2000 Cruiser Challenge in Alameda, CA.
We currently sail the M17 *dharma bum*, but we're thinking of doing some traveling, and an M15 (imho) is tons easier to tow, launch, and retrieve, thus the search.
The boat was sold to a woman named Beth Davis in the mid-90s. It is my understanding she eventually donated the boat to a charity auction...probably in the late 90s.
Any info on M15 345 would greatly appreciated. t
On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 8:22 PM, peter kunst <peterkunstt@hotmail.com> wrote:
Hey Tom, If I am not mistaken Chukar is a M-15 from Sandpoint Id, That was photographed on lake Pend Oreille Id, and used on the Motgomery 15 sales brochure Best Regards,Pete
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 22:01:57 -0500 From: thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345
Hey Tom, I am curious. What is so special about this particular boat? Is it an M17? Tom B
On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 7:54 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. Named Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? Probably mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom
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Message: 13 Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 10:25:32 -0600 From: Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom Message-ID: <CAGjBOA6DrC6xaS-V= xt9eezJfjeODzRLY150S8GPH7NzFC3-hw@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Once boat bottom painted the boat is 'committed' to the treatment.
Unless you know for sure what is currently on the boat you need to get it all off to avoid incompatible paint combinations.
Besides barrier coating you can paint with a durable antifouling paint for trailering such as VC17 (which is good in most lakes ... But not be n Cali.)
ViViD is a good hard ablative and has many color choices including mixing colors to make a custom match to your boat.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA :: Former M15 owner On Apr 13, 2015 9:53 AM, <swwheatley@comcast.net> wrote:
Interlux Brightside is not marketed as a below the waterline paint. If you're sure you do not want any antifouling protection, you might want to consider Interlux VC Epoxy instead.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Hall" <bert.hall@bell.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 12:28:36 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom
Hi, The best advice I can offer is to have the M15 bottom stripped professionally. Two years past my hull was in similar state to yours , the method you are proposing to get access to the bottom is similar to the one I dreamed up and I also used a stripper like that you describe.The job was a night mare mostly due to the lap strake configuration of the hull. I spent the best part of two weeks just removing the blue bottom coat and disposing of the detritus. Next came hours of sanding followed by two coats of resin and then two coats of copper based anti fouling. I swore never to repeat that undertaking. If you go ahead, you will need approximately 5 quarts of the citrus product,a variety of scraping tools, a good tarp to put under the hull,lots of disposable clothing ,mask ,goggles and lots of rags .Material costs should run between 3 &4 hundred $ Best of British Luck and the patience of Job.. RTH.
-----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 11:10 PM To: David Grah ; For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom
David, I used that Citrustrip and found it is sensitive to the humidity. Dry days require about 25-30 minutes to soften two layers of bottom paint. Humid days can take as long as 40 minutes. If you time it right by testing a small section the paint will skive off like butter with a blunt putty knife with the blade edges rounded to match the radius of the corners of the planks in the hull. I was also able to use a plastic putty knife on most of it so damaging the gelcoat was not an issue. If you wait too long the stuff gets hard again. When I applied the stripper I loaded the brush and made one pass in one direction with each 3 inch brush load. That seemed to work the best. If you try to stretch out the coverage the stuff will not work nearly as well. Buy at least a gallon to get yourself started on the 15, it will be cheaper than buying three quarts, one at a time. Tom B
On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 8:07 PM, David Grah via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
I'm planning to refinish the bottom of my Montgomery 15 soon and have no experience doing such a thing. I wondered if the group had any comments or suggestions on my planned approach. The boat has several coats of blue ablative bottom paint on it now. They look bad. They are faded and the upper edge of the bottom pain doesn't follow the waterline very well on the starboard side.The boat probably won't be in the water for more than a week at a time for as long as I own it and is usually in fresh water when it is in the water. The hull is white with a blue stripe at the top.
I plan to mount 4 - 4 inch by 4 inch posts, 8 foot long, in my garage. The bottoms of the posts will rest on the garage slab and the tops will be bolted or screwed to the joists in the garage. I will brace the joists with diagonal 2 inch by 4 inch to the garage walls (these 2 by 4's are along the bottom of the joists to the plate at the top of the wall). The posts will support the boat and the joists will keep the posts vertical. If things go right there will be very little load on the joists.
I'll nail 3/4 inch plywood squares to the tops of the posts and cut groves in the edges to run 1/8 inch cables. I'll move the boat on the trailer into the garage and jack the trailer up a few inches and put it on blocks. I will attach 1/8 inch cables to the back unused holes where the shrouds attach at the edge of the boat and to the cleats on either side at the stern of the boat and loop the cables over the tops of the posts and clamp them.Then I would lower and remove the trailer. When working on the boat, I would place "kickers" under the lip at the hull to deck joint on the side I am working on to lessen the changes that the boat would roll toward me if it came down for some reason. I would also put blocks under the keel. I would use Citristrip stripping gel to remove most of the bottom paint. I have tested it after it was recommended in this group and found it works well. Depending how hard I scrape it can take off some of the gel coat under the bottom paint as well. I'd wipe the bottom with paint thinner and sand it with 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the remaining blue bottom paint residue. I'd wipe it down with acetone and then sand again with 220 grit sandpaper, probably wet, and wipe with acetone again. I think I will be left with white gel coat over the bottom stained slightly blue. I'd brush on two coats of off-white Interlux Brightside one-part paint up to about 1/4 inch above the top of the old bottom paint and then add a two coat red stripe about 4 inches wide to cover the uneven top of the current bottom paint on the starboard side. I figure the new Interlux won't match the gelcoat so need something to cover this transition. The edge of where the current bottom paint is would always be within the red strip by at least an inch. I'd put the trailer back under the boat and jack it up to take the weight of the posts and the cables, then lower the trailer and take the boat out of the garage and hopefully be done. Does this seem workable? Anything I should plan to do differently? Thanks!
David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky
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Message: 14 Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 10:39:15 -0700 From: "stevetrapp" <stevetrapp@q.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 Message-ID: <E9A41719A1AF4A58B97106EA33B764B7@STEVEEW> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Interesting that M-15 # 345 was on Lake Pend Oreille in North Idaho. I had my M-15 # 335 on the lake during the summers of 1989 -90, but do not remember seeing # 345 either of those seasons. I did learn to give the U.S.N. submarine testing base and area a wide berth, seeing a periscope pop up above the surface while under sail was an interesting. Also lost a new 35mm camera overboard in about 800 ft deep water. Steve M-15 # 335
----- Original Message ----- From: "peter kunst" <peterkunstt@hotmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 8:22 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345
Hey Tom, If I am not mistaken Chukar is a M-15 from Sandpoint Id, That was photographed on lake Pend Oreille Id, and used on the Motgomery 15 sales brochure Best Regards,Pete
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 22:01:57 -0500 From: thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345
Hey Tom, I am curious. What is so special about this particular boat? Is it an M17? Tom B
On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 7:54 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. Named Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? Probably mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom
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