John: Get 3M '35' heavy duty electrical tape. Wrap the turnbuckles so JUST the cotter pins are covered leaving the bodies open (no trapped water to cause crevice corrosion). This means each turnbuckle has two tape bands: one for the upper swage fitting pin and one for the lower t-bolt pin. Replace yearly (you should be taking the pins out and twisting the turnbuckles a few threads back and forth each way to assure you don't get any rusting and fusing the turnbuckles). IMO no need for boots on the spreaders. As you wrote all types interfere with raising/lowering mast and huge overkill for the Mboats. Which speader design do you have? Fixed or the swinging? Captive uppers at the spreader ends or held in place with a strand if rigging wire? :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com On Wed, Dec 5, 2018, 7:18 PM John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net wrote:
Hi all,
A couple things I want to get in place, or improve, for next season, on my M17.
Anyone have a particular shroud/turnbuckle cover product (or DIY method) they can recommend (meaning you've used it and it works well for you)? I want to be done with jib sheet and/or jib edge catching on turnbuckles/lower shrouds (not to mention want to be done with the wear & tear on sheets & sail).
Same question re spreader boots or jib rollers. Has anyone used the Forespar jib roller or Harken chafe protector roller on your shrouds? They are spec'd for 3/16" and up wire, but I imagine a bushing could be used on 1/8" wire. Saw these rollers in action on a friend's larger boat and seems all around smarter approach than spreader boots. Can't find anyone making a smaller roller for 1/8" wire but if you know of one please point me to it.
I have tried the rubber spreader boots (taylor made or whitecap brands) and IMO they suck; too stiff of material, poor fit, etc..
thanks, John
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design --------------------------------------------