Sometime my mind slips gear. There should not be two block in the anchor arrangment as only 1 is required and it goes on the eye of the anchor. So the anchor line is tied at the bow, though the block on the anchor and back to yourself. I hope I didn't confuse thing too much here. Thanks Doug --- Doug Kelch <doug_kelch@yahoo.com> wrote:
This is tough problem. I have done this a couple of times using long lines, snatch blocks and a small vinyl coated lead anchor.
First case was a ramp on the ICW in Savannah GA - no immediate dock with ramp "protected" by rip rap. There was a dock about 70 ft away from the ramp out in the ICW.
I used the 200 ft anchor line to run from the bow cleat long the side of the M15 along inside the stern clear but not cleated. The line continued to the dock (you could walk to the dock on a long bridge)through a snatch block attached to the dock back to the trailer. A second 20 foot bow line was also attached for short term control.
Launch the boat as normal holding both lines - making sure everything is running free. Take up the slack on the long line to the dock and if everything looks OK toss the short bow line on to the deck (usually falls in the water but so what) and haul away. When the boat is floating clear about 1/2 way to the dock (wind, current considerations and stuff)I walk around to the dock taking up the slack line. At the dock will give slack on the line, reach down and flip the line and it will usually hop off of the slot by the stern cleat and then bring it in bow on.
Reversing this requires two long lines to get the bow line all the way to the trailer. Unless there is no cross current or wind that would cause a loss of control if you didn't have lines to both bow and stern.
Next case is Nothing to tie to and walk to out from the dock.
I have an aluminum stern ladder which I can use and at most ramps the M15 keel will be clear of the bottom with the water depth slightly above the knees with the stern towards land. So - how to arrange this?
The vinyl covered anchor will serve as the outer pulling point. I will try to describe the end goal first.
Picture the boat pleasantly at anchor 15 ft off shore. The anchor line routing is unusual however. Consider a line running from the anchor to a block at the bow ( I use a snatch block with a long tail to the deck cleat) back to a block attached to the anchor line about 5 - 10 ft from the bow and back to you on shore. If you also have a stern line to the boat you can then pull the boat to shore with the stern line while giving slack on the bow line. With the stern at the ramp you wade out, climb up the stern ladder and haul the M15 back off shore.
How do you get to this end state from the trailer? you pre-rig the anchor ahead of time with an extra double line trough the eye at the anchor. The thin line is not tied but one end is threaded though the eye and back to the second end. The anchor is then place in a location on the boat so that it can be "tripped" off of the deck when the boat is deep enough.
So when everything is set you launch the boat. Push it hard off shore and when it gets where you want it - trip the anchor off the deck and let go of the launching bow line. You presumably are now holding the free end of the anchor line and the stern line. You can tie them both to a convenient tree or dumpster and go park your car. Obviously all lines must run free with no snags but with some thought it does work re-reliable.
The reverse of this works with a little power assist from your trusty outboard to get the stern into the shallows. You then move the boat off shore again while you get your trailer in place. When the trailer is in place pull the boat close to shore, swing the bow around with the extra long bow line, which you thoughtfully led back and tied off to the long stern line, and pull the bow up on the trailer.
If it is too confusing email me off line and I will draw diagrams and send them.
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