Either one is fine (not silicone) but polyurethane is much easier to clean up. Jerry jerrymontgomery.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gordon Gilbert" <gordon@financialwriting.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 10:24 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bow rail removal
Thanks for the advice, Jerry. I'll get right on that. For re-bedding would you use polyurethane instead of polysulfide?
Gordon On May 15, 2008, at 12:11 PM, jerry wrote:
You are right except that the caulking was polyurethane! The solution is to get a really sharp putty knife and gradually slip it in. Once it's opened up a little, gently drive in a sharp wood wedge and the stanchion will gradually release. Don't get in a hurry and work from one stanchion to another.
Jerry jerrymontgomery.org
----- Original Message ----- From: "Gordon Gilbert" <Gordon@FinancialWriting.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:13 AM Subject: M_Boats: Bow rail removal
I just removed, varnished and re-bedded all the brightwork on my M-17. Now I'd like to re-bed my bow rail, since I'm seeing gaps in the bedding compound -- but I can't it off. I've removed the bolts and banged the rail with a hammer and piece of wood, but the thing seems cemented in place. I'd hate to yank out chunks of deck with the pulpit.
I'm assuming that the rail was originally bedded with polysulfide caulk. Has anyone else had this trouble -- or have a good solution?
Thanks,
Gordon
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