Tom: Could it be your pressure treated wood was not yet dry? Most is not.......if you cut it shortly after you bring it home from the yard, you may get saw slush vs. saw dust. It is that wet. Depending on moisture content and grain pattern (vertical vs. horizontal), it may cup like crazy as it dries out to a stable moisture content. But that is nearly all woods.........not just pressure treated pine........pressure treated just behaves badly as it is often so wet to begin with. Even kiln dried may arrive to you at at least 15% to 20% moisture content. It needs to be down to 10% or so to stabilize. FWIW, my hatch boards are solid mahogany. Aside from some color fading, they are as good now as when I took over stewardship of them about 15 years ago, and they have been around a lot longer than that. Boat is a 1978 and they may be original. Howard On Dec 30, 2015, at 1:25 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Yeah, scheme. I thought that pressure treated yellowpine would be a good choice. No rot, etc. I did not reckon with the sun's ability to warp a piece of well finished wood. Even after I ripped the pine into two inch strips, alternated the grain and then epoxied it all together again. Lesson learned. I will look into my favorite hardwoods supplier in Houston and see if they have an answer that suits. Better now in Dallas? than Conn? I see you "up there' are catching a lot of bad weather. Look into the Louisville Dam northwest of Dallas, on google to get a real eyeopener. Happy New Year. Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 11:54 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2015 11:32 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Tom,
I didn't buy a whole sheet. I went to a specialty wood shop in Boston, and they cut me about 1/3 of a sheet and that is all I had to pay for.
Since I am now living in Dallas, our tornado that just went past us is of greater importance than is the weather in Connecticut.
Or, if you want to get ingenious; use Baltic birch plywood and add teak veneer to both faces; Or, just use the birch plywood and give it a teak stain - a still cheaper solution that should stand up to the weather and look pleasing as well.
The name of the game is "scheme"
Connie
Hi Connie, Last time I checked having to buy a whole sheet of teak faced plywood was about as expensive as buying a few board feet of solid teak. My checkbook is whispering "mahogany" in my ear. Looks like you are having a HOT winter up there in Connecticut. You can thank El Nino for that. fairwinds, Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B <
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