Connie, Good, sailed until you were 85, gives me a few more years of sailing to look forward to, and I am confident my M-15 will last as long as I wlll. Steve M 15 # 335 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@sbcglobal.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 2:44 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Old age?
On 26-Feb-13 1:41 PM, stevetrapp wrote:
Hi Steve,
My age, not that of the M15.
I had to give up sailing when I was 85.
Our M15 #400 was bought by a young couple,- experienced sailors- and is now happily sailing up in the Lake Champlain area.
Connie
Old age? Your's or your M-15? I know that my M-15 # 335 was built in 1985, sold new to me in 1986, so I figure your # 400 must have been built about 1987 or 88. If you do not know, look at the hull number, the year of manufacture is included in that number. Steve M-15 # 335
----- Original Message ----- From: "Conbert Benneck" <chbenneck@sbcglobal.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 10:08 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: removing a hole in the hull and deck to joint
On 26-Feb-13 12:42 PM, Robbin Roddewig wrote:
Hi Robbin,
I too married a derelict CP16 in haste in Clearwater, FL, and then repented at leisure.
The rudder on the CP16 was just a flat piece of aluminum sheet material, about 3/8th of an inch thick, as I recall.
When I recognized that the CP16 was a miserable sailor - it refused to even think of going to windward - I quickly recognized that I had bought a bathtub toy, not a sail boat; dumped the CP16 as quickly as I could, and looked around for a better solution.
What I found was the M15, and after lots of chit-chat with the M-Listers, who answered all my questions in great detail, and with lots of enthusiasm, I bought my M15, #400 sight-unseen, in Panama City, FL.
After picking it up and towing it back to Connecticut,my first detailed inspection at home delighted me with what I had bought, and it only got better and better the longer we owned it.
For just the Admirable and myself, the M15 was ideal, and we did a lot of trailering; sailing; and exploring in it.
Jerry designed and built a masterpiece.
I only wish we were still able to sail our "LEPPO" , but old age finally forced us to give up our wonderful sport of sailing.
Ciao,
Connie
ex M15 #400 LEPPO
Hi Tom, my only experience was the Compac 16 that had a rather poor rudder. Just a piece of sheet metal from what I remember of the stock rudder. The boat had such issues pointing that I was desperate to improve it any way I could. For the CP-16 the improvement was very noticable. For the M boats I think the rudder shape is very good so all I would be looking for from Ida would be the kick up function without doing surgery to my Mahogany rudder.
Robbin
On 2/26/2013 10:12 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Robbin I too am thinking "Isa rudder". Have also read the hype about them, etc. In your experience do they improve the handling/speed at all much less turning a sailboat into something you can water ski behind? I think they quote M-17 rudders at something around $650. Regards, Tom
On Tue, Feb 26, 2013 at 8:09 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> wrote:
Hi Tom, my pleasure posting the pictures. The M-10 is very very similar to the Fatty Knees so you might find some info there since they are still in production, but the M-10 has a dagger board that you lift in and out of the dagger board slot in the hull. I would estimate that with the dagger board up the M-10 draws well less than a foot, probably six inches. It has no keel to speak of, only a formed keel at the back of the hull to help it track while rowing etc. The rudder arrangement on the M-23 like most of the M-17's is that the rudder slides up and down a fixed rod. I bought the material for the rod from McMaster Carr. You can google them but they sell bolts, metal products as well as other machine items. They are not a marine supply outfit in any way. I too have a kick up rudder on my long list, probably from Ida Sailor as I had good luck with them on my CP-16 rudder replacement long ago. The Chesapeake has lots of thin water and given the right circumstance I can see the transom being damaged from grounding the rudder while it is full down.
Robbin
On 2/26/2013 8:58 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
> Hi Robbin, > Great pictures, thanks. That M-10 is a sweet looking craft. Does it > have > any type of keel arrangement? How much does it draw? There is a lot of > protected water around Corpus Christi that is rather shallow and > this boat > looks like it would be fun to use to explore the area. > Noticed you bought that rudder rod from Mc Master Carr. Is that a > business > name? My M-17 does not have the rudder rod arrangement and it was > certainly > a good idea when I used it on my first Montgomery. I am considering a > kickup rudder commercially made since my 17 came with a replacement > rudder > without any holes at all in it. The thin water here abouts covers > oyster > shell beds which are as hard as rock and I do not want to tear off a > rudder > on one of them. > > Regards, > Tom > > On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 6:48 PM, Robbin Roddewig < > robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> wrote: > > Hi Thomas, >> I am not sure what material the through hull is but to me the >> valve looks >> like a gate valve. >> I do have some shots of the M-10 although I am not sure how to >> post them >> to this site. I will upload them to the M-23 site at >> https://picasaweb.google.com/****110938325409185510143/M23<https://picasaweb.google.com/**110938325409185510143/M23> >> >> <htt**ps://picasaweb.google.com/**110938325409185510143/M23<https://picasaweb.google.com/110938325409185510143/M23> >> >> Thanks >> Robbin >> >> On 2/25/2013 6:49 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: >> >> Robbin, >>> If the valve is delrin or bronze I would leave it where it is >>> against >>> the >>> day when you may sell the craft. Just be sure the ball valve is >>> wired >>> shut. >>> I have always heard that 5200 is the way to go. >>> I have been looking for a picture of an M-10. If you have one, >>> would you >>> post it here? >>> Well the first 900 miles I put on my new (old) M-17 were road >>> miles but >>> it >>> is finally in my yard. >>> >>> Good luck on your repairs, >>> Tom Buzzi >>> >>> On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 4:06 PM, Robbin Roddewig < >>> robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> wrote: >>> >>> Hi M-boaters, >>> >>>> I attended a great seminar that other day about proper through >>>> hulls >>>> that >>>> convinced me I should remove the through hull on my M-23 that is >>>> connected >>>> to the holding tank. I never plan on using this as I have a porta >>>> potti, >>>> dont now if the attached valve is approved and am not planning on >>>> reconstituting the head system so this is just a hole in the >>>> hull for >>>> water >>>> to come in if it breaks. Any advice on how to remove the current >>>> plastic >>>> (or delrin or whatever it is) through hull and then patch the >>>> hole? I >>>> am >>>> not sure what the thickness of the hull is on the lower portion, >>>> cored >>>> or >>>> what not. >>>> I also need to work on the hull to deck joint in March and April as >>>> things >>>> warm up in Virginia. If anyone has a good reference or hints on >>>> this >>>> repair I would appreciate any info that you can pass along. I >>>> have had >>>> Jerry's recommendation to use 3M 5200 which is also what Don Casey >>>> recommends but I like to get all the information I can before >>>> starting >>>> a >>>> big project. >>>> >>>> Thanks in advance! >>>> >>>> Robbin >>>> M-23 and M-10 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>
----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.2899 / Virus Database: 2641/6134 - Release Date: 02/26/13
----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.2899 / Virus Database: 2641/6134 - Release Date: 02/26/13