Yup......coat the entire thing.....heavy on the edges, but all sides too. I'd suggest at least 3 coats. Laid flat, you can brush these on pretty heavy and it will self level. Watch for air bubbles. A warm day and slow cure hardener helps with this. And if you lay the boards out flat, putting down three coats on the sides will mean the edges get it 6 times, as you tend to double down on the edges from drips and runs. With 3 coats of clear epoxy and 3 or 4 coats of a good varnish, it will look like the boards have been covered with glass. The grain of the wood will "pop" out at you. Just remember that epoxy is damaged by UV. The varnish you use has to have a good UV inhibitor. Most of them do, but that's the thing to be aware of. I've been using Interlux Goldspar with good results. Howard On Jun 22, 2009, at 8:54 AM, <htmills@zoominternet.net> wrote:
I would probably coat the whole thing: I've found that if you try to just coat part of it, the edge of the epoxy shows up as a slight color change.
Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 9:48 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
Thanks all for the advice on epoxies. So, in addition to using it on the edges of the plywood to fill in those holes and gaps, I should also give the face a coat as well before using a polyurthethane/varnish, such as Bristol Finish? I used Bristol Finish on the toe rails, handrails, and the two strips along the hatch. I like BF which wears like iron. I was going to use something else on the hatch boards for fear that the BF might chip and crack on the edges from the constant on and off with the drop boards.
It's never simple is it??
This whole week is going to be in the mid 80's with N NE 10 kt winds. So I hope to be on the water and not worrying too much about varnish, etc..
Joe Seafrog M17 651
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