Todd, I hope the blasting and work solves your problem. However, be warned that misc scrap metal was tossed into the shoal keel area of my 1979 M23, and when water migrated into that cavity the non-lead metal rusted and expanded, thus pinching my centerboard slot. I needed a pretty major root canal to fix the problem. I have photos if you are interested let me know off-list. Sail fast! Theo 1979 M23 Sails Increase On Jun 18, 2013, at 6:17 PM, montgomery_boats-request@mailman.xmission.com wrote:
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Putting a Telescoping Ladder on My Montgomery 15 (George Iemmolo) 2. Re: Putting a Telescoping Ladder on My Montgomery 15 (Chris Smith) 3. Three Montgomery 15 Questions - update (David Grah) 4. Re: Three Montgomery 15 Questions - update (stevetrapp) 5. Re: Three Montgomery 15 Questions - update (George Iemmolo) 6. Update 23' (Todd Bradley)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1 Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 07:54:24 -0500 From: "George Iemmolo" <griemmolo2@gmail.com> To: "'David Grah'" <d_b_grah@yahoo.com>, "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Putting a Telescoping Ladder on My Montgomery 15 Message-ID: <51bf0709.0658320a.25c6.ffff8e10@mx.google.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
David
I can not thank you enough as you have answered all my questions regarding the installation of a ladder (same one I had selected).
George Merry Helen M15 #602 'We Can Not Control the Wind But We Can Adjust our Sails' -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of David Grah Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 8:43 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Putting a Telescoping Ladder on My Montgomery 15
Last winter I put a telescoping ladder on my Montgomery 15.? I am happy how it came out and wrote up the installation process.? I have tried to attach that as about a 3 megabyte pdf in case others are interested. The text without the photos is copied below.
David Grah Bishop California
Installation of Transom Ladder on Montgomery 15 Sailboat By David Grah Winter 2012 / 2013
For the few years we have had our 1986 Montgomery 15, we have used a removable ladder for getting back on the boat when we swim. Although it worked, the removable ladder was not very secure nor convenient to deploy and stow.
I asked on the Montgomery sailboat discussion group for ladder suggestions and received some very good information. The group said to stay clear of ladders with only two mounting points because of the stress they would put on the transom and suggested a Garelick 18017 Marine Compact Two-Step Transom Ladder in particular as a good four point ladder. Dave Scobie also provided a link to his excellent page about installing transom backing plates for ladders and motor mounts on a Montgomery 15:
http://www.sagemarine.us/forum/showthread.php?380-Installing-transom-backing -plates-on-an-M15
After looking into ladders a bit, I was concerned about how much the Garelick ladder might stick up above the top of the transom when stowed and liked the idea of a telescoping ladder. Since I live many hours drive from anywhere I could see ladders, I decided to buy both the Garelick and the telescoping ladder that looked best online to see which I liked best. The telescoping ladder was a Windline TT-3X Transom Mount Ladder. I bought both from Amazon.
Here is a photo of the removable ladder and the two new ones, Garelick in the middle, Windline on the right:
They are shown at the relative height they would be used on the boat. The Garelick was positioned so it wouldn't stick up ?too far? about the transom of the boat. The telescoping ladder was positioned so it would fold up below the lip at the top of the transom. Note the removable ladder extended the farthest into the water followed by the telescoping ladder although the steps of the telescoping ladder came pretty close to matching the steps on the removable ladder. I wanted to use the telescoping ladder but needed to distribute the stress over more of the transom than the stock mounting brackets provided. I designed some larger mounting brackets, purchased a small piece of 12 gauge 316 stainless steel sheet on the internet, and had a local metal working shop cut and bend the two brackets for me. I drilled holes in the new brackets to match the holes in the new ladder:
I bolted the new brackets on to the new ladder and put a backing nut on the bolt that went through the top hole on the ladder. This nut helps spread the stress from the small ladder over the full length of the new bracket and puts less stress on the transom:
With the brackets in place on the telescoping ladder, the stress of the ladder is spread over an area larger than with the Garelick ladder:
To prepare the transom for mounting the new ladder, I essentially followed the process David Scobie described.
I added a West Marine access plate to the starboard cockpit seat behind the lazarette:
Next I made a cardboard template of the plywood backing I would add to the transom:
To get the cardboard to the inside surface of the transom, I found I had to cut it into two pieces. In addition, the upper part of the transom already had some thickness to it. This thickness was apparently foam sandwiched between inside and outside layers of fiberglass. I needed about a ? inch thick plywood to fill in below this. My plywood reinforcing for the transom became three pieces of ? inch plywood. The smallest one was to fill in for the foam thickness where it wasn't. The two longer pieces were to provide reinforcing over the large area I wanted to beef up. And the medium size pieces was to sort of hold the two longer pieces together:
There is no place around here to get marine grade plywood. I found a scrap of nice 5 ply plywood at the local hardware store and, since I didn't have enough of this nice 5 ply stuff, also got some standard 3 ply CDX plywood. I used the CDX for the small piece that filled in below the foam and the 5 ply for the rest of the pieces. Here is another view of the pieces. They were cut to match the cardboard pieces I had made to fit into the transom:
Generally following David Scobie's process, I epoxied the plywood in place a layer at a time. While the epoxy hardened I held the pieces in place with lengths of wood jammed between the transom and the back of the lazerette and with ropes looped through holes in the plywood and the transom and held tight with more pieces of wood. I found these methods worked pretty well:
Once the plywood was in place, I drilled the mounting holes oversize, filled them with epoxy and re-drilled them. Two of the holes needed to be quite large to accommodate the nuts tightened to the back of the top holes on the ladder. I didn't do a good job with my initial placement of the top holes:
I installed the ladder and drilled a hole through the deck to hull flange at the top of the transom to accept a bolt that is dropped in place to hold the ladder up when stowed. I wrapped a piece of bungee around the bottom rung of the ladder to keep it from rattling on the trailer (bungee not on yet):
I am quite pleased with the installation both deployed and stowed:
------------------------------
Message: 2 Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 08:08:49 -0500 From: Chris Smith <chris.r.smith@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Putting a Telescoping Ladder on My Montgomery 15 Message-ID: <CAPkEqajboEX7jgzUTcx1mb_Wf=GU5mJ76qCcqfiGEKLpOwhjjw@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252
Fantastic work. I'll be following your lead when I add my telescoping transom ladder!
On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 7:54 AM, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com>wrote:
David
I can not thank you enough as you have answered all my questions regarding the installation of a ladder (same one I had selected).
George Merry Helen M15 #602 'We Can Not Control the Wind But We Can Adjust our Sails' -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of David Grah Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 8:43 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Putting a Telescoping Ladder on My Montgomery 15
Last winter I put a telescoping ladder on my Montgomery 15. I am happy how it came out and wrote up the installation process. I have tried to attach that as about a 3 megabyte pdf in case others are interested. The text without the photos is copied below.
David Grah Bishop California
Installation of Transom Ladder on Montgomery 15 Sailboat By David Grah Winter 2012 / 2013
For the few years we have had our 1986 Montgomery 15, we have used a removable ladder for getting back on the boat when we swim. Although it worked, the removable ladder was not very secure nor convenient to deploy and stow.
I asked on the Montgomery sailboat discussion group for ladder suggestions and received some very good information. The group said to stay clear of ladders with only two mounting points because of the stress they would put on the transom and suggested a Garelick 18017 Marine Compact Two-Step Transom Ladder in particular as a good four point ladder. Dave Scobie also provided a link to his excellent page about installing transom backing plates for ladders and motor mounts on a Montgomery 15:
http://www.sagemarine.us/forum/showthread.php?380-Installing-transom-backing -plates-on-an-M15
After looking into ladders a bit, I was concerned about how much the Garelick ladder might stick up above the top of the transom when stowed and liked the idea of a telescoping ladder. Since I live many hours drive from anywhere I could see ladders, I decided to buy both the Garelick and the telescoping ladder that looked best online to see which I liked best. The telescoping ladder was a Windline TT-3X Transom Mount Ladder. I bought both from Amazon.
Here is a photo of the removable ladder and the two new ones, Garelick in the middle, Windline on the right:
They are shown at the relative height they would be used on the boat. The Garelick was positioned so it wouldn't stick up ?too far? about the transom of the boat. The telescoping ladder was positioned so it would fold up below the lip at the top of the transom. Note the removable ladder extended the farthest into the water followed by the telescoping ladder although the steps of the telescoping ladder came pretty close to matching the steps on the removable ladder. I wanted to use the telescoping ladder but needed to distribute the stress over more of the transom than the stock mounting brackets provided. I designed some larger mounting brackets, purchased a small piece of 12 gauge 316 stainless steel sheet on the internet, and had a local metal working shop cut and bend the two brackets for me. I drilled holes in the new brackets to match the holes in the new ladder:
I bolted the new brackets on to the new ladder and put a backing nut on the bolt that went through the top hole on the ladder. This nut helps spread the stress from the small ladder over the full length of the new bracket and puts less stress on the transom:
With the brackets in place on the telescoping ladder, the stress of the ladder is spread over an area larger than with the Garelick ladder:
To prepare the transom for mounting the new ladder, I essentially followed the process David Scobie described.
I added a West Marine access plate to the starboard cockpit seat behind the lazarette:
Next I made a cardboard template of the plywood backing I would add to the transom:
To get the cardboard to the inside surface of the transom, I found I had to cut it into two pieces. In addition, the upper part of the transom already had some thickness to it. This thickness was apparently foam sandwiched between inside and outside layers of fiberglass. I needed about a ? inch thick plywood to fill in below this. My plywood reinforcing for the transom became three pieces of ? inch plywood. The smallest one was to fill in for the foam thickness where it wasn't. The two longer pieces were to provide reinforcing over the large area I wanted to beef up. And the medium size pieces was to sort of hold the two longer pieces together:
There is no place around here to get marine grade plywood. I found a scrap of nice 5 ply plywood at the local hardware store and, since I didn't have enough of this nice 5 ply stuff, also got some standard 3 ply CDX plywood. I used the CDX for the small piece that filled in below the foam and the 5 ply for the rest of the pieces. Here is another view of the pieces. They were cut to match the cardboard pieces I had made to fit into the transom:
Generally following David Scobie's process, I epoxied the plywood in place a layer at a time. While the epoxy hardened I held the pieces in place with lengths of wood jammed between the transom and the back of the lazerette and with ropes looped through holes in the plywood and the transom and held tight with more pieces of wood. I found these methods worked pretty well:
Once the plywood was in place, I drilled the mounting holes oversize, filled them with epoxy and re-drilled them. Two of the holes needed to be quite large to accommodate the nuts tightened to the back of the top holes on the ladder. I didn't do a good job with my initial placement of the top holes:
I installed the ladder and drilled a hole through the deck to hull flange at the top of the transom to accept a bolt that is dropped in place to hold the ladder up when stowed. I wrapped a piece of bungee around the bottom rung of the ladder to keep it from rattling on the trailer (bungee not on yet):
I am quite pleased with the installation both deployed and stowed:
-- Chris
------------------------------
Message: 3 Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 13:51:41 -0700 (PDT) From: David Grah <d_b_grah@yahoo.com> To: "montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: M_Boats: Three Montgomery 15 Questions - update Message-ID: <1371502301.76499.YahooMailNeo@web125206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Thanks to the group for the help I got with these questions.? As an update:
1.? After going back and forth between several websites I decided the Forespar Ends Kit Adj 4-8 part 300026 included the ends I needed.? The best price with shipping I fond was West Marine so I bought the kit and it was just what I needed.? I epoxied the new end in place and am ready to go.? Plus from the kit I now have a space end and an official spike end.
2.? Amen Sails was suggested to me for the spinnaker repair but John Amen, the owner, after seeing the photos of the tear, thought that adhesive patches were a better way to go.? He is sending me some in the mail.
3.? The bottom paint job sounds miserable and I think I will raise the boat in my single car garage on stands made of 4 by 6 boards braced, in small part by the garage structure and, in most part, with angle braces.? I am not yet sure how I will raise the boat but it will probably be by the lift-the-trailer-and-boat then lower-the-trailer method.
----- Forwarded Message -----
From: David Grah <d_b_grah@yahoo.com> To: "montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, June 2, 2013 7:12 PM Subject: Three Montgomery 15 Questions
I always appreciate the perspectives, stories, and information provided by this discussion group.? They are invaluable.? I find I have three questions about my 1986 Montgomery 15:
1. ?One of the plastic ends to my whisker pole (or is it a spinnaker pole?) broke. ?Both ends used to attach to both the mast and sail by fastening or snapping. ?The pole is fixed length. ?I tried replacing the broken end with a spike but found the pole would fall out of the sail, at least when used with the spinnaker. ?The pole isn't handy at the moment, but I think it is about one inch in diameter. ?I haven't been able to find replacement ends or even figure out what new pole would be a good replacement. ?I did find old discussion in the group that seemed to indicate that a Forespar 4-to-8 foot adjustable pole worked for a Montgomery 15. ?Can anyone tell me where I could get a replacement pole end (ideally) or (if I can't get a new end somewhere) a new pole and what particular models of ends and poles and what sources I should consider?
2. ?In what I think is unrelated to my new spike-end on my whisker pole, I notice my spinnaker has a 3 to 4 inch horizontal rip in its body about 2/3rds the way to the top. ?The cloth of the spinnaker seems to otherwise be in good shape. ?Who could I contact for this repair? ?Note the nearest sail loft is a 5 hour drive away so I will almost certainly have to ship it somewhere.
3.? When I bought my boat it had what I think is called ablative bottom paint.? Since I store the boat on the trailer and typically sail in mountain lakes, this paint has been little else than a nuisance.? It is a nuisance because every time I touch it I come away blue.? Also, it is uneven and worn away from parts of the bottom and on one side doesn't even follow the water line very well.? This makes it sound worse than it is, but you can probably see why I want to repaint the bottom.? My general plan is to paint the bottom back to a cream color similar to the above water portion of the hull, probably with a new red strip at water line to hide the uneven boundary between old and new bottom paint.? This may be my fall and winter boat project this year and I'll plan to figure out the exact process and paints when I get closer to starting.? The question I have now has to do with how to lift the boat off the trailer bunks for the preparation and painting process.? I understand the boat weighs about 750 pounds and can be lifted from the shroud chain plates with balancing lines to the bow and stern.? I don't have access to stands.? The nearest boat lift and yard is a 5 hour drive away.? I would like to allow myself 2 weeks to a month to complete the process.? What great suggestions does the group have to lift the boat to paint it?
Thanks very much for any and all responses!
David Grah Bishop California
------------------------------
Message: 4 Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:08:41 -0700 From: "stevetrapp" <stevetrapp@q.com> To: "David Grah" <d_b_grah@yahoo.com>, "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Three Montgomery 15 Questions - update Message-ID: <907F1074D07D4B4AB7A15FCC787C749B@STEVEEW> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
David, Measure the height of your garage door opening against the height of your M-15 on the trailer first. I found that my M-15 was too high on the trailer to get it into my garage. Steve M-15 # 335
----- Original Message ----- From: "David Grah" <d_b_grah@yahoo.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 1:51 PM Subject: M_Boats: Three Montgomery 15 Questions - update
Thanks to the group for the help I got with these questions. As an update:
1. After going back and forth between several websites I decided the Forespar Ends Kit Adj 4-8 part 300026 included the ends I needed. The best price with shipping I fond was West Marine so I bought the kit and it was just what I needed. I epoxied the new end in place and am ready to go. Plus from the kit I now have a space end and an official spike end.
2. Amen Sails was suggested to me for the spinnaker repair but John Amen, the owner, after seeing the photos of the tear, thought that adhesive patches were a better way to go. He is sending me some in the mail.
3. The bottom paint job sounds miserable and I think I will raise the boat in my single car garage on stands made of 4 by 6 boards braced, in small part by the garage structure and, in most part, with angle braces. I am not yet sure how I will raise the boat but it will probably be by the lift-the-trailer-and-boat then lower-the-trailer method.
----- Forwarded Message -----
From: David Grah <d_b_grah@yahoo.com> To: "montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, June 2, 2013 7:12 PM Subject: Three Montgomery 15 Questions
I always appreciate the perspectives, stories, and information provided by this discussion group. They are invaluable. I find I have three questions about my 1986 Montgomery 15:
1. One of the plastic ends to my whisker pole (or is it a spinnaker pole?) broke. Both ends used to attach to both the mast and sail by fastening or snapping. The pole is fixed length. I tried replacing the broken end with a spike but found the pole would fall out of the sail, at least when used with the spinnaker. The pole isn't handy at the moment, but I think it is about one inch in diameter. I haven't been able to find replacement ends or even figure out what new pole would be a good replacement. I did find old discussion in the group that seemed to indicate that a Forespar 4-to-8 foot adjustable pole worked for a Montgomery 15. Can anyone tell me where I could get a replacement pole end (ideally) or (if I can't get a new end somewhere) a new pole and what particular models of ends and poles and what sources I should consider?
2. In what I think is unrelated to my new spike-end on my whisker pole, I notice my spinnaker has a 3 to 4 inch horizontal rip in its body about 2/3rds the way to the top. The cloth of the spinnaker seems to otherwise be in good shape. Who could I contact for this repair? Note the nearest sail loft is a 5 hour drive away so I will almost certainly have to ship it somewhere.
3. When I bought my boat it had what I think is called ablative bottom paint. Since I store the boat on the trailer and typically sail in mountain lakes, this paint has been little else than a nuisance. It is a nuisance because every time I touch it I come away blue. Also, it is uneven and worn away from parts of the bottom and on one side doesn't even follow the water line very well. This makes it sound worse than it is, but you can probably see why I want to repaint the bottom. My general plan is to paint the bottom back to a cream color similar to the above water portion of the hull, probably with a new red strip at water line to hide the uneven boundary between old and new bottom paint. This may be my fall and winter boat project this year and I'll plan to figure out the exact process and paints when I get closer to starting. The question I have now has to do with how to lift the boat off the trailer bunks for the preparation and painting process. I understand the boat weighs about 750 pounds and can be lifted from the shroud chain plates with balancing lines to the bow and stern. I don't have access to stands. The nearest boat lift and yard is a 5 hour drive away. I would like to allow myself 2 weeks to a month to complete the process. What great suggestions does the group have to lift the boat to paint it?
Thanks very much for any and all responses!
David Grah Bishop California
------------------------------
Message: 5 Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 17:24:21 -0500 From: "George Iemmolo" <griemmolo2@gmail.com> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>, "'David Grah'" <d_b_grah@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Three Montgomery 15 Questions - update Message-ID: <51bf8c9f.4b06320a.40c8.1f09@mx.google.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I was able to get my M15 in the garage by removing the mast and dropping the wheel so that the trailer was on the skid and was able to get the mast support lower than the door. Stored the mast under the trailer.
George 'We Can Not Control the Wind But We Can Adjust our Sails' -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of stevetrapp Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 5:09 PM To: David Grah; For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Three Montgomery 15 Questions - update
David, Measure the height of your garage door opening against the height of your M-15 on the trailer first. I found that my M-15 was too high on the trailer to get it into my garage. Steve M-15 # 335
----- Original Message ----- From: "David Grah" <d_b_grah@yahoo.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 1:51 PM Subject: M_Boats: Three Montgomery 15 Questions - update
Thanks to the group for the help I got with these questions. As an update:
1. After going back and forth between several websites I decided the Forespar Ends Kit Adj 4-8 part 300026 included the ends I needed. The best price with shipping I fond was West Marine so I bought the kit and it was just what I needed. I epoxied the new end in place and am ready to go. Plus from the kit I now have a space end and an official spike end.
2. Amen Sails was suggested to me for the spinnaker repair but John Amen, the owner, after seeing the photos of the tear, thought that adhesive patches were a better way to go. He is sending me some in the mail.
3. The bottom paint job sounds miserable and I think I will raise the boat in my single car garage on stands made of 4 by 6 boards braced, in small part by the garage structure and, in most part, with angle braces. I am not yet sure how I will raise the boat but it will probably be by the lift-the-trailer-and-boat then lower-the-trailer method.
----- Forwarded Message -----
From: David Grah <d_b_grah@yahoo.com> To: "montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, June 2, 2013 7:12 PM Subject: Three Montgomery 15 Questions
I always appreciate the perspectives, stories, and information provided by this discussion group. They are invaluable. I find I have three questions about my 1986 Montgomery 15:
1. One of the plastic ends to my whisker pole (or is it a spinnaker pole?) broke. Both ends used to attach to both the mast and sail by fastening or snapping. The pole is fixed length. I tried replacing the broken end with a spike but found the pole would fall out of the sail, at least when used with the spinnaker. The pole isn't handy at the moment, but I think it is about one inch in diameter. I haven't been able to find replacement ends or even figure out what new pole would be a good replacement. I did find old discussion in the group that seemed to indicate that a Forespar 4-to-8 foot adjustable pole worked for a Montgomery 15. Can anyone tell me where I could get a replacement pole end (ideally) or (if I can't get a new end somewhere) a new pole and what particular models of ends and poles and what sources I should consider?
2. In what I think is unrelated to my new spike-end on my whisker pole, I notice my spinnaker has a 3 to 4 inch horizontal rip in its body about 2/3rds the way to the top. The cloth of the spinnaker seems to otherwise be in good shape. Who could I contact for this repair? Note the nearest sail loft is a 5 hour drive away so I will almost certainly have to ship it somewhere.
3. When I bought my boat it had what I think is called ablative bottom paint. Since I store the boat on the trailer and typically sail in mountain lakes, this paint has been little else than a nuisance. It is a nuisance because every time I touch it I come away blue. Also, it is uneven and worn away from parts of the bottom and on one side doesn't even follow the water line very well. This makes it sound worse than it is, but you can probably see why I want to repaint the bottom. My general plan is to paint the bottom back to a cream color similar to the above water portion of the hull, probably with a new red strip at water line to hide the uneven boundary between old and new bottom paint. This may be my fall and winter boat project this year and I'll plan to figure out the exact process and paints when I get closer to starting. The question I have now has to do with how to lift the boat off the trailer bunks for the preparation and painting process. I understand the boat weighs about 750 pounds and can be lifted from the shroud chain plates with balancing lines to the bow and stern. I don't have access to stands. The nearest boat lift and yard is a 5 hour drive away. I would like to allow myself 2 weeks to a month to complete the process. What great suggestions does the group have to lift the boat to paint it?
Thanks very much for any and all responses!
David Grah Bishop California
------------------------------
Message: 6 Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 15:17:00 -0700 From: "Todd Bradley" <todd@btbuilders.net> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: M_Boats: Update 23' Message-ID: <00c601ce6c71$8e804bc0$ab80e340$@net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Hi everyone - thought I would post a brief update on my progress (journey) on the boat currently know as Ce Cee.
A week or so ago, I went to pick up the new Pacific trailer so I could get the boat on a trailer and closer to me. This would make it easier to do the work (she is in San Francisco bay area and I am in Sacramento about 2 hours away). When we tried to get her on the trailer the center-board was stuck down. After trying again to raise the CB (with more force this time) we broke off one of the blocks the pulley cable runs through. So, plan 'B'.. time to hire professionals. I went over to the boat yard and got on the schedule to get the boat hauled and see if we could get the CB to budge.
I ended up having the boat yard pull the CB. I had them load it up in my truck and I was off to the sandblaster. I returned a few days later with the sandblasted CB. I made sure we had it set-up that we could get a primer coat on the raw CB within hours of the sandblasting (picked this from Sean's postings on his site. Thanks Sean). I decided to bite the bullet and pay the yard to get the CB faired and painted up also. This should be complete late this week and I'll head back down with the trailer and pick her up.
The hull looks in pretty good shape. No blisters that we could see!
I can wait to get her in my driveway so I can start doing some of the other repairs!
Todd