I've used Permatex Anti-Seize with good results. It prevents seizing, galling, and corrosion. Larry Y On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 8:25 PM, Stanley Wheatley <swwheatley@comcast.net> wrote:
I think you guys are talking about Tef-Gel. I wouldn't put a stainless fastener in an aluminum spar without it.
-----Original Message----- From: GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2015 11:19 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Outhaul and reef point boom hardware
Tyler - at Home Depot they call it anti-corrosive paste - in the electrical dept. (typically used on aluminum wiring terminations) the 'Chandlery' name escapes me - it is in the boat tool box.
GO
In a message dated 10/21/2015 5:11:17 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, danielgrich@gmail.com writes:
I have too. The problem is that over the long haul one can get galvanic corrosion from the two disparate metals, which causes the aluminum side on the spar to get brittle. The fitting could fail suddenly. JudyB once game me some good advice about this, but I forgot!!
There is some kind of stuff in a tube that electricians use to isolate the metals. So painting the threads with that stuff should reduce or eliminate the problem. Somebody on this list will know what that is!
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
On Oct 21, 2015, at 5:06 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
I've installed cheek blocks and cleats for both reefing and outhaul to
the
boom by drilling holes, tapping them with #10 threads with a tapping drill, and screwing on the hardware with #10 stainless bolts. Easy to
do,
and trouble-free afterward. I used the same procedure to move the mainsheet bail forward when I installed a longer tiller.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, October 21, 2015, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net>
wrote:
I'll second the question about attaching hardware to boom.
My mainsheet block attachment point on the boom appears to have been moved forward. There are two sets of what I take to be prior attachment points aft of where it is now. I want to put it back to original location. The stainless strap that the block mounts to looks to be riveted on using aluminum rivets.
Also I have multiple reef point hardware on the boom, curious to compare current mounting method to others' experiences.
cheers, John S.
On 10/21/2015 01:39 PM, Tyler Backman wrote:
I am planning to add an outhaul and second reef point hardware to my
M15, and have some questions:
-What is the recommended way to mount hardware to the boom? I don't want to have stainless rivets fail from galvanic corrosion. I've thought about using plastic shoulder bushings and bolts, but that wouldn't let the hardware mount perfectly flush.
-Does anyone have hardware recommendations for the reef point and outhaul?
-Is an internal outhaul worthwhile?
Sincerely, Tyler Davis, CA M15 #157 "Defiant"
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design
- Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com