I had to redo that area on my M17 also (#38). I countersunk the hex head end of the bolt, but not the nut end. The head is fairly thin so it's a small countersink. The nut end, being a nylon insert locknut, would be about twice as deep a countersink so for now it just snugs down against the keel surface. I might partially countersink it at some point. I would keep some of the flats exposed in order to be able to get a wrench or socket on it. Otherwise I'd have to make the countersink hole wide enough to get a socket into and I'd rather minimize the removal of material in that area. I also did what Tom mentioned, put a piece of 3/8" ID fuel hose on the bolt. NOTE that this is a minor cushioning measure to avoid the metal on metal at CB and stop pin. If one drops the early model very heavy CB with "too much" force the pin will bust out regardless of fuel hose or no fuel hose. cheers, John S. On 05/22/2018 07:34 PM, Gary Froeschner wrote:
I am replacing the centerboard stop pin in my M17. It was busted out and long gone. I’ve finished the keel repair and am ready to drill the hole and install the SS pin that acts as a stop for the centerboard. I understand it’s 3/8” dia x about 3” long. Was there anything special about these, or will any 3/8” x the correct length SS bolt work?
I do not intend to counter boar the holes. I don’t want to take away any more meat. It already busted out once, before I owed it. I don’t know if the original one was counter boarded or not. The pivot pin is. Any thoughts?
Thanks. I’m not sure how to post things to the sight in general. I just replied to one of the emails.
Gary Froeschner Columbia, MO M17 – hall #095
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: jerry@jerrymontgomery.org Sent: Monday, May 21, 2018 3:17 PM To: Erik Stavrand; 'For and abmontgomery forum Subject: Re: M_Boats: Rigging for my boat
I don’t know about the gallows. A difference between Dave Scobie and myself is that he likes lots of gadgets and I like simplicity. I have the greatest respect for Dave- he’s a smart guy and is probably a better all-round sailor than I am. I like all the things that make a boat sail better and faster, and aside from that I like things that make it easier to sail but not at the expense of performance. I’m happy with a mast support that fits in the rudder gudgeons, and as soon as the mast goes up the support goes in the back of my truck, along with the tie-down lines. For you, since you need to lower the mast to go under the bridge, maybe it would work to just keep the mast support on the boat and drop the mast on it. obviously you’d need to sister the rudder gudgeons so you wouldn’t need to unship the rudder. To me, the gallows is weight aloft, and windage, both of which are detrimental to performance. When I anchor I’m perfectly happy to either hook the end of the boom to the backstay triangle, or, in the case of the M-15, which I’ve done some cruising in, using the main halyard, then furling the main on the boom and setting up the cockpit awning over the boom. I can see the value of a gallows on a “real” bluewater boat that will be sitting for days or weeks at anchor, but not a trailerable.
I’m going to take the liberty of putting this thread on the M forum; some of those people will have something to say. M-17 owners- be aware that the Sage has the shrouds swept aft since it’s a 7/8 rig, so the M-23-type (also used on many others) of mast stabilizer won’t work as far as I can see. Doesn’t mean that some smart M-15 user, which has the same characteristic, hasn’t some up with a simple and ingenious way to get the job done. If so, hopefully you’ll hear from him/her. Good luck and I’ll get back to you if I come up with anything.
From: Erik Stavrand Sent: Monday, May 21, 2018 1:27 PM To: jerry@jerrymontgomery.org Subject: Re: Rigging for my boat
Hi Jerry,
Thanks for the suggestion - it is elegant. I’ll be interested in your thoughts after the race - good luck.
Also - I’m thinking I’ll need a boom gallows (or a crutch for the boom and mast). As rigged from Sage can the mast come back with the boom attached?
Thanks,
Erik
Erik Stavrand stavrand@me.com
If your dreams don’t scare you they’re not big enough.
On May 21, 2018, at 4:06 PM, jerry@jerrymontgomery.org wrote:
I'd use the jib halyard rather than the forestay. it might work to attach the halyard to the bow pulpit, then run it back to the winch as usual. You'd still need someone (or something) to keep the mast from going off to one side. I have a race this weekend and I'll think about it. I'm soon going to be 78 and am starting to get weak and wobbly so I need to work out something for my boat before I fall off!
-----Original Message----- From: Erik Stavrand Sent: Monday, May 21, 2018 5:26 AM To: jerry@jerrymontgomery.org Subject: Rigging for my boat
Hi Jerry,
I have a Sage 17 and am interested in your recommendation for a rapid mast raising system using the tabernacle. The marina near my house has a railway crossing that I’ll need to go under. Do you think the headstay could be led to a turning block and aft to the cockpit?
Thanks in advance for your input!
Erik
Erik Stavrand 941-661-9609
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com