Hi Thomas, I am not sure what material the through hull is but to me the valve looks like a gate valve. I do have some shots of the M-10 although I am not sure how to post them to this site. I will upload them to the M-23 site at https://picasaweb.google.com/110938325409185510143/M23 Thanks Robbin On 2/25/2013 6:49 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Robbin, If the valve is delrin or bronze I would leave it where it is against the day when you may sell the craft. Just be sure the ball valve is wired shut. I have always heard that 5200 is the way to go. I have been looking for a picture of an M-10. If you have one, would you post it here? Well the first 900 miles I put on my new (old) M-17 were road miles but it is finally in my yard.
Good luck on your repairs, Tom Buzzi
On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 4:06 PM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> wrote:
Hi M-boaters, I attended a great seminar that other day about proper through hulls that convinced me I should remove the through hull on my M-23 that is connected to the holding tank. I never plan on using this as I have a porta potti, dont now if the attached valve is approved and am not planning on reconstituting the head system so this is just a hole in the hull for water to come in if it breaks. Any advice on how to remove the current plastic (or delrin or whatever it is) through hull and then patch the hole? I am not sure what the thickness of the hull is on the lower portion, cored or what not. I also need to work on the hull to deck joint in March and April as things warm up in Virginia. If anyone has a good reference or hints on this repair I would appreciate any info that you can pass along. I have had Jerry's recommendation to use 3M 5200 which is also what Don Casey recommends but I like to get all the information I can before starting a big project.
Thanks in advance!
Robbin M-23 and M-10