I keep my rode in a mesh bag. It feeds out the top and the bitter end comes out the bottom for a about 6'. I have a thin messenger line that I run from the port cleat to the bow rail and back to the cleat. It runs on the outside of everything. I anchor from the stern. The anchor and chain is in the cockpit locker on top of the mesh bag of rode. If I plan to anchor and all is flat and calm I'll walk the rode up to the front and back to the cockpit. If not, I use the messenger line. I fake enough line in the cockpit foot well and attach it to a shackle at the end of the chain and lower the anchor. Brake it off and cleat it to a mid cleat. After double checking the rode up to the bow chock I uncleat the rode and voila. The mesh bag lets me rinse the line. I put it all back in the cockpit locker in a shallow plastic bin about 18" X 28" X 5". It keeps the wet line from getting the inside of the hull/bilge from accumulating a puddle. Joe M17 Seafrog #651 ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills@zoominternet.net> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 3:16 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Seranita Hawes Pipe...Bill's Question
The thing I like about keeping my anchor & rode in a milk crate under the cockpit is that it keeps any moisture confined to the bilge area where it can be easily sponged up. It also keeps the weight down as low as can be. Additionally, before I put the milk crate away, I can easily rinse mud off while I'm sailing away from the anchorage and even let the thing set out in the sun on a sunny day to dry before putting it away. I also can make sure the rode is arranged to run freely before stowing the crate.
The sole disadvantages might be that I do have to open the cabin to get the anchor out and that I do go on deck, but I've naught had a situation where I was anchoring in rough seas anyway; I've only anchored in pretty flat watered anchorages. Some people do anchor in a seaway, so those disadvantages might become important.
Annie Westlund uses a different arrangement on her Slipper 17: She keeps her anchor on a roller on the bow, but instead of using a deck pipe, she runs the rode across the deck to the cockpit. To anchor she does it from the cockpit. The advantage of her system are that the anchor is always ready to go from the cockpit without having to go to the bow, but the disadvantages are the rode (esp. chain) on the deck and the weight up high. She spends entire summers aboard her boat anchoring nearly every night.
A guy on the TSBB, Charles Brennan, uses yet another arrangement on his Windrose 18: He keeps his anchor and rode in the cockpit, but instead of walking the rode to the bow, he uses a second shorter piece of line to do the job. The second line runs from the cockpit to a block on the U bolt at the bow (that the trailer hooks to) and then back to the cockpit, where it has a snatch block on the end. The snatch block hooks on to his anchor rode. He launches the anchor from the cockpit, then pulls the rode to the bow by pulling the second line, hauling the snatch block and anchor rode to the bow. Then he cleats of the second line and adjusts his rode to the desired scope and cleats it off too. This system's advantage is in not having to go to the bow, but, like Annie's method, means that there extra lines along the deck (and some of the topsides near the bow, at least). Presumably, they are just line and no chain ever touches the gelcoat, unlike with Annie's method. Still, it seems like a lot of clutter. Charles evidently does anchor quite often in a seaway so that he can fish or scuba dive, so the advantages of staying off the foredeck go without saying.
Assuming I ever get my Tartan 26 restored (on indefinite hold), I expect I'll keep the anchor on the bow with a deck pipe and storage under what would be the v-berth if there were a v-berth. The reason for going to that arrangement over the one on my M-17 is primarily the weight of the anchor system: It would be a bit much to carry back and forth, and I'll have a lot more chain. I actually wouldn't mind Annie's method except that I wouldn't want the chain rubbing on the deck continually.
So anyway, those are some different arrangements I've come across.
Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 1:50 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Seranita Hawes Pipe...Bill's Question
JB, Have you thought of using a puppy pee pad. They are very absorbant and even have a little air freshner built in. Plus they are disposable. Joie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Balla" <jbsails@gmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 10:20 AM Subject: M_Boats: Seranita Hawes Pipe...Bill's Question
Hi Guys...
Thanks for the kind words about Seranita gents! Bill, regarding your question and to the fact you already got it figured out before I got
back
to the list...yes, the hawes is simply like a capped opening which leads my chain and rode right down to the forwardmost portion of the vberth and I keep it in a small crate behind the pillows in the photo. My eventual plan was to glass in a shelf with a four or five inch lip that would eliminate the need for the crate and also give me back the space in the berth. I have been trying to figure out how to dispense with the moisture generated with that plan. Presently, I use a plastic trash liner under the crate and a big beach towel under it which seems to suffice, although not the ideal scenario.
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