I carved mine out of "starboard" - a marine grade polymer that comes in sheets. Some folks just get a short piece of mast section from the spar maker, then cut and trim to fit. My mast is a Dwyer - they did not make gates for my mast section. Jim M-17-"Spirit" On Aug 31, 2010, at 8:46 AM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Thanks for the pointers Jim.
Does anyone have suggestions for a mast gate? Are they an available stock item from say Dwyer or others? Or is it something one can make up ala MacGyver?
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17
On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Jim Poulakis <picfo@comcast.net> wrote:
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing...
- The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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