Epoxy resin will work fine for this. You don't need a lot of clamping pressure with epoxy; in fact too much and you starve the joint and weaken the repair. The trick will be finding a way to compress the plies enough while the resin sets. Most epoxy can be poured and moved into place with spreaders or even popsicle sticks. Vinyl or latex gloves are advised (some people have or develop epoxy sensitivity). Stiff plastic, slightly heavier than Saran Wrap, is good for putting under the boards, then another piece over it, another piece of plywood to spread the weight and something heavy on top could be enough to compress the plies until the epoxy starts to set. Depending on temp, the epoxy will start to cure within a few hours. Before it fully hardens you can scrape off or shape any squeeze out easier than once it fully cures. When it has fully cured, use a nylon "scrubbie" pad and some water to scrub off the wax-like coating that sometimes forms on the epoxy before sanding and finishing. Epoxy does not have good UV resistance so it will need to be coated with varnish or Cetol. But I think it would give you the most natural looking repair. On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 10:58 AM, <JDavies104@aol.com> wrote:
I am refinishing the companionway boards on my M-17, and found on one corner that the plywood has delaminated back about three inches each way. The teak veneer has also come unattached in the same area. The wood doesn't seem to be rotted, and is completely dry (it's been in my basement for a while.) Does anyone have experience in repairing something like this? Can it even be done so it will last? I'm planning a lot of coats of varnish after the repair. On a website I found a suggestion that injecting resin between the plies and clamping might work. Any help in figuring out whether to repair or replace would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick M-17 Lynne L
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