Hi Connie, The sandpaper method is a good idea. You're always full of tricks. The shim ring that I'll need will be something like 12"x12", 1" wide and 1/2" thick. I don't think teak or any wood short of maybe plywood would be suitable. Two of the 12" sides would be end grain and bound to check. Actually I was thinking of using a piece of white plastic cutting board that's about 1/2" thick. We have this very large cutting board, like 20"x24" and I'm always threatening to cut it in half because it's so cumbersome. So now I've got a good reason to attack that overgrown hunk of petro-chemical. Thanks for the advice, Rick
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2006 11:00:04 -0500 From: chbenneck@juno.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Forward Hatch in an M15 To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <20060318.112805.2568.2.chbenneck@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi Rick,
When I mounted the NICRO vent on the M15 foredeck, I had to install the NICRO vent flange on a teak ring.
The deck camber problem was solved easily - with a bit of elbow grease - by putting the teak ring on a sheet of 80 grit sandpaper that lay on the deck.
Straight line fore and aft movement of the teak ring on the sandpaper produced the matching curvature.
Then it was just a matter of bedding the teak ring, and using the fasteners of the NICRO vent flange to secure everything in place.
Or, if you want to install the 12 x 12 hatch, scribe a teak piece to fit the curvature of the deck.
Connie