Can't speak directly to M15 but here's how it works for my M17 - which is a masthead, jib-driven rig, presumably more so than the M15 fractional rig. The M15 experts can speak to if/how this is relevant on an M15, but the part I already heard is Dave saying reef down the main, keep more jib, on the M15. I love having a roller reefing jib. In particular because the jib powers the M17 to a great degree. I used to have to start with a small jib, based on being prepared for wind to pick up through the afternoon. This meant that in lighter air I had too little jib, and in heavier air, where the jib was more appropriate in size, I was overpowered on the main. Or I'd reef the main and then be underpowered on the jib a bit still. Now I can put a full first reef in the main in higher winds, and then set out however much jib optimizes performance. Which is almost always more than when I had to start with a smaller fixed jib. Bottom line is, the M17 seems to perform best with a "goldilocks" amount of sail - not to much, not too little, juuuuuust right. And being able to optimize the jib size easily seems key to that. And, the "right" amount may seem like "too little" for folks who are used to heeling way over in a blow with full canvas, thnking that gives best speed. This last trip to Fern Ridge I got to experiment with both main and jib reefing over several days that varied from ghosting light air, to sweet sweet medium wind sailing, to short gusts of 25+ with around 15-20 steady. What I found is that as the boat gets even moderately overpowered, reducing sail does not cause any significant performance loss, and may even improve performance. One day as the wind was peaking late afternoon, I started reefing the jib to avoid being overpowered. Then started feeling overpowered on the main, so I put the first full reef in the main, and increased the jib. What a difference! I was going 90%-100% as fast, far more comfortably. Maybe even a bit faster at times, as the heel was not excessive and I wasn't needing to luff the main to avoid overpowering or round-up in gusts. It just felt awesome, like finding the sweet spot in anything. Scooting along noticeably faster than I imagined the reduced sail would enable. Also, at times in more moderate wind, on close to medium reach, the helm was so well balanced that I could literally hands-off the tiller for a moment or two and she would steer herself to correct for minor wind shifts. I think the jib to main balance is the main factor for this, for a given load in the boat and position of skipper in cockpit. So for the M15 experts...what if any of this is also relevant on the M15? cheers, John On 10/7/19 11:55 AM, Jim Sadler wrote:
Thanks again skipper
I am berthed on a side tie (with fenders) and rock jetty on the other side. I need to sail downwind to reach open water where I can hoist the main. I am hoping to be able to unfurl just a little of the jib to get me to open water. BTW is against my religion to bend on the gas-sail to get out of the "slip" . By just standing up I can usually get enough way on to steer to open water. Returning to the berth up wind is a different challenge that requires the use of the paddle . I also would like to use my 150% genoa for every condition like when I only want 100%. Does this sound nuts?
Jim S
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Dave Scobie Sent: Monday, October 7, 2019 11:23 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: roller furling for Montgomery 15
Jim.
As you want reefing ability, though I think it is really unneeded on the M15 (better to reef the main twice before reducing headsail and this gets you above 20 knots of wind), the CDI FF1 is the better choice (I prefer Schaefer's Snapfurl but not recommend for a 15' boat - if someone using the Schaefer PLEASE comment!).
If you just want furling ability there are many great, simple, and better working units than the CDI. These non-reefing units use a wire luff in the headsail to replace the forestay.
One thing - to use a furler the boat will be converted to a turnbuckle at the bow plate instead of a shroud adjuster. The Jerry built boats also have the forestay entering the mast and attached to a bolt with a thimble eye (bolt also holds the shrouds to the mast). The concern is with forestay wire rub where it exits the mast? Again, folks with furlers on M15's please comment.
Another issue is using a turnbuckle on the forestay may encourage over-tightening of the rig and over stressing the boat or inducing incorrect mast rake or even bend.
IMO the M15 with a hank-on jib and a downhaul, having a double reef main, can be sailed in over 20 knots of wind. It is when getting to the mod-20kts that a storm jib becomes useful.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred/
On Mon, Oct 7, 2019, 10:51 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Thanks skipper for the reply
The boat is in a slip and I want reefing ability. Seldom need to step the mast
Capt Jim Sailing vessel Pelican M15
-----Original Message-----
On Oct 7, 2019, at 10:41 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Jim.
Do you want reefing ability?
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred/
On Mon, Oct 7, 2019, 5:24 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
What is a good furling system for M15?
Captain Jim Sailing vessel Pelican M15
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com