Thanks Jerry, I appreciate your response. What a great idea to not replace the screws with the current phillips head (I planned on replacing but would have simply got a bunch of phillips head). Some are stripped already I can see so a square drive or allen is a great improvement. Fastenal has some good choices for square drive 10-24 but I will keep looking. Thanks Robbin On 12/9/2012 2:22 PM, jerry montgomery wrote:
Robin- You're not going to like hearing this, but i'd take the toe rail off, clean everyting up, and re-install it, bedding it well. If you'll mask both sides off before removing the rails it'll help in the final cleanup. I'd buy new screws if they're the slightest bit buggered. They're #10-32 oval heads. Much better screws that are available nowdays are the ones with allen heads, or better yet square socket heads. They don't strip nearly as badly. They might be hard to find but they're out there. They'll be way easier to get off when you have do the same thing in another 35 years- look forward to it! use good polyurethane bedding.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robbin Roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2012 6:55 AM Subject: M_Boats: advice on re-bedding hull to deck joint
Hello all, I had a warm day yesterday and started stripping off some of the ash slats along the interior of the port side hull. There was an obvious area of molded rotted wood that I planned on replacing. I knew there was a leak at the hull to deck joint but did not appreciate the extent of the damage until I got into removal. Most of the port side is now bare (had to saw off the shelf as it was glassed to the hull :-( ) but it is obvious now that the previous leak repair attempts during the history of the boat have not worked and the joint is probably still leaking a good bit. I had some previous advice on caulking the toe rail in place but did not attempt any repairs. I now have to. I would like to any advice based on experience you all have on rebedding the toe rail and rebedding the hull to deck joint. Or just doing the patch of caulking the toe rail at the area in question with the addition of some drain holes to prevent the standing water that leads to all this issue. The toe rail on the M-23 is bolted from the side where as on the M-17 I think it was from the top. So I believe the M-23 joint is inward turning pr cap flange whereas my M-17 was obviously outward.
Mucking at all with the toe rail screws is going to be a pain as there are lots of them (around 70 per side) and the previous owners slopped paint and caulk all over the nuts and screws inside..... I like working on the boat but am not looking for major projects as there are many other maintenance issues that should be done this off season so what do you all think the good enough solution would be?
Thanks!
Robbin M-23 and M-10
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