Howard, If you choose to use a two part polyurethane paint, check with the manufacturer about its toxicity. The use of some paints require that you be totally covered and use an outside air source for breathing, due to ingredients like isocyanates. There are also basecoat-clear coat types. Don't know what their toxicity is. Clarence ----- Original Message ----- From: "Howard Audsley" <haudsley@tranquility.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 7:04 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Gel Coat Matching
So if I want to spiff up my 1978 boat, I should prep it for painting, then take it to an auto body shop and have them shoot on a couple coats of white and some clear cote? And maybe not white. Heck....going the automotive route opens up all kinds of color options. Maybe I could get a deal on Mary-Kay Pink in a metal flake? Wouldn't be too many of those out there!
Seriously, if the automotive paint is an option, it changes the equation a great deal. No reason at all to have a ragged looking boat.
On my stitch and glue dinghy, I have been planning to use a water based 2 part LPU paint from System 3. Perhaps I should give the automotive paint a try. One of our local auto parts stores has an automotive paint section. Hard to imagine it could be that easy.
On 4/18/05 11:42 PM, "jerry" <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org> wrote:
I better way on an older boat is to use a two-part polyurethane. Rather than LP (linear polyurethane), an automotive type is better because you
can
sand out any runs, and it stands up to UV better. You can spray it over gel-coat (prep just like you would when using gel-coat, then wetsand out the edges and buff. It'll be the shiniest spot on the boat, esp[ecially ten years later. The best auto-type polyurethane is Deltron, made by PPG. You can't get it many places now in CA because of harrassment from the air quality people, but it IS still legal for boats and airplanes.
Jerry jerrymontgomery.org
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