Happy Spring M-boaters! I started to remove the toe rail in preparation for my repair of the hull to deck joint yesterday. What I have been reading is to do a "small" section at a time by unscrewing (in the case of the M-23) the fasteners and toe rail, moving toe rail, prying apart, sealing with 3M5200 and refastening without turning the screws once they are sealed in. This is fine in theory, but I do not see a practical way to do a small section at a time. I had a small section unscrewed in the middle down by my leak at the bottom of the sheer curve and the toe rail was not about to move out of the way to let me work on the joint. It would seem to me that I need to remove the back half of the toe rail and work on that section then move to the front. Any advice from folks that have done this repair? I assume the "small section" approach is so that you do not loose alignment of the hull and deck. So would it be better to remove a largish section of toe rail, repair small section of joint at a time putting in screws to hold, then remove screws and rebed them when the toe rail goes back on? Guess I should wax the screws I am using for the temporary fastening so the 3M5200 does not bond them in? I would also appreciate any inside info on how to best pry open this shoe box joint and repair without breaking anything! I have most of the new slats varnished and ready to go back in once I have made the repair. Just need to figure out the shelf. I have the updated pictures on my photo site https://picasaweb.google.com/110938325409185510143/M23 Thanks! Robbin M-23 and M-10