Group: In light of the upcoming San Juan M-Boat cruise as well as some previous requests for more info, I am including below a treatise originally intended for the MSOG website (did not end up being posted). It is lengthy, so my apologies to those not interested in this region. In a message dated 10/27/03 9:31:57 PM, msog@msog.org writes:
Scott,
I'm putting together a web page of the posts of your BC trips that Connie (I think) alluded to. I couldn't find how long the trip(s) was/were. Thought it might help give perspective to how much you took along for how long. Can you give me an idea of an average length of trip?
Sorry for the delay. Just got back from the San Juans last night. We have done several trips now--most are one to three weeks in length. We are firm believers in not forcing schedules in these waters (on account of both safety and flexibility). You did not ask for them, but I am including some sample itineraries for the region. Also, I have interjected some updates/comments/hints to the archival posting below: 1) San Jaun Islands: One week minimum starting from either Annacortes or Sidney, BC (you can take the daily international ferry from Annacortes to Sidney). There are good provisioning and shoreside entertainment/activities in Friday and Roche Harbors, but to escape the summer crowds, we like Stuart and Sucia Islands best. One must Clear customs in either Roche or Friday Harbors if coming from Sidney. Beware fast building fog and live by the current tables/current atlas. If need be, you can bail out at one of several islands served by ferry (walk-on to either interisland or to/from Annacortes) and retrieve your tow vehicle/trailer. For those with limited timeframes, you can ferry and launch from one or more of the larger islands closest to your preferred cruising grounds. 2) Sidney BC and Southern Gulf Islands: One week minimum starting from Sidney or nearby harbors (harbours!!), or could be tacked onto a San Juan Island trip (clear Canadian Customs in Bedwell Harbor on South Pender, or in Sidney). This area is often sunny when the San Juans are fogged-in, and offers great trips in protected waters with line-of-site navigation, plenty of protected anchorages, and harbours/shoreside attractions. Our favorite diversions are a trip down the Saanich Inlet to Brentwood Bay for special backdoor (dinghy dock) landing for Butchart Gardens (great on summer evenings), Ganges on Saltspring for the farmers and art markets, and several small anchorages such as Annette Inlet on Prevost Island, Clam bay between Thetis and Kuper Islands, etc. As with any of these trips, you still have to live by the current charts, and there are a few potentially dangerous passes (only if you insist on ignoring tidal and current information). 3) Princess Louisa Inlet (via Egmont): Five days to one week (not including ferry travel and driving time from Vancouver). One of the 'Holy Grails' of Northwest cruising. Descriptions such as 'Yosemite flooded with seawater' don't do it justice. Truly inspiring, but a bit of work to get to/from. Closest starting point is Egmont, BC--a mere hamlet on the north intersection of Sechelt and Jervis inlets. There is a ramp (if you can call it that) at the Egmont Marina Resort just north of 'Downtown Egmont.' It is a gravel/rock affair behind the restaurant, and is of quite shallow angle. I used my tongue extension and still had my truck's rear tires in the water. Watch your ties, and use big fenders--the current that rips through this harbor is astounding. After you ready/launch your boat, reward yourself with a hike to Sechelt (aka 'Skookumchuck') Rapids at max ebb or flood. The 15+ knot current and 8-10' standing waves/overfalls will serve to drive home the importance of timing your passages at slack water (again, you should be safe if you adhere to the current charts--and mind the daylight savings time differences where applicable). The trip to Princess Louisa is 35nm +/- ONE WAY. You MUST carry enough fuel for at least 80nm of motoring, as there are no refueling opportunities once you leave Egmont. Don't count on sailing. If it happens, great, but you are in a series of fjords, and the winds are fluky at best. You will likely get a few good moments each day, but expect to motor most of the time. You will need to plan this trip long in advance, as you can only enter the Malibu Rapids (gateway to the actual Princess Louisa Inlet) at slack water (preferably high slack). Do not try to enter at any other time. It may look like a fun thrill ride, but is very dangerous on account of low buoyancy in the frothy water of rapids, eddies, and whirlpools. Your best bet is to schedule the trip up-inlet for a day with a high slack water in the late afternoon. Arrive a little early and wait outside the rapids. Schedule your exit for a morning high slack. There are no real protected anchorages between Malibu Rapids and Egmont, so make sure the weather forecast is favorable prior to setting out in either direction. Once inside, prepared to be amazed by towering mountains (snowcapped early in summer season, cascading waterfalls (some thousands of feet), and amazing geology. It will take a while to get all the way to the head of the inlet. If you are running late, you can tuck in behind Macdonald Island to port about half way in. At the head of the inlet is Chatterbox falls--a huge roaring waterfall in most years. There is a long BC Marine Park dock just to starboard of the falls. If you don't have a dinghy, you might want to tie up and stay here. If you do have a dinghy, you can anchor/stern-tie a distance from the madding crowds on the dock. You need the dinghy here because the water is incredibly deep with precious little shelf for anchoring. The idea is to drop your bow anchor and row ashore with your FLOATING line (I use Regatta Lite). Wrap this around a tree or rock well above the high tide line, and return with the bitter end to your boat (it helps to have someone on board paying out line). This serves the dual purpose of keeping you from dragging off of the shelf and keeping the boat securely fastened and ready for an emergency departure (release bitter end and go). You can anchor directly off of Chatterbox falls, and the resulting flow should hold you bow-to. I tried this once in a bigger boat, and have to say that the deafening noise got to me after a while. Also, I have seen boats anchored here overcome by a really strong up-inlet wind. I favor the north side of the inlet for anchoring/shore-tie. It is a short dinghy paddle to the dock where you will find water (non-potable--use your purifier), onshore toilets (primitive), and a trailhead to the falls and a more extensive hike to the old Trapper's Cabin. I would recommend the hike to the cabin--not so much because of the structure--but for the view. It is a strenuous hike/climb. At some points, you must climb tree roots to keep going, and the trail is often muddy and washed out, but you will feel on top of the world when you arrive. Take your camera. Your boat will be the tiny speck in the stunning bay below. Oh, and watch for bears. They frequent the upper trails. If you have time on the return trip, you can add a nice two day side trip to Harmony Islands in Hotham Sound before returning to Egmont. 4) Desolation Sound: One to two weeks starting from Lund (the northern terminus of highway 101). Lund is a great starting point for exploring the entire Desolation sound area. It is a charming little town that has been going through fits and starts for as long as I can remember. There is an excellent (new as of late '90's) launch ramp, and secure parking for your tow vehicle/trailer at Lund Automotive & Outboard (call ahead to reserve space). Just don't leave any food in your vehicle, as bears have come for visits. Another cautionary note: DO NOT TRY TO TURN RIGHT FROM THE RAMP WITH YOUR MAST UP!! I speak from experience here. It is possible that they have removed that low power cable since my last visit, but then again I think it provided endless entertainment for the locals. Once launched, the harbormaster will find you a place to tie-up. Get used to rafting, as that is the primary way of accommodating the high summer traffic. At one harbor, I was rafted out four boats from the dock. Believe me, you don't want a three hundred pound fisherman crossing your M15 in the middle of the night! Usually they can find a solo spot for such small/shallow draft boats as the Montgomery. Head north from Lund into the Thulin passage between the mainland and the Copeland (aka 'Ragged') Island group. If the conditions permit, find a little cove and explore these beautiful little rock islands. You might be surprised to find the water to be quite warm here. We escaped the summer heat by swimming between two small islands. Continue North around Sarah Point, and take a right down into Malaspina Inlet. Head for Grace Harbour and grab an anchorage on the starboard side of the bay (beware the covering rock mid-bay). This is a delightful bay. We have twice been there when the jellyfish are in. Millions upon millions of these beautiful, translucent creatures drift through the clear waters. At night, we would sit in the cockpit and watch the stars above and below. The jellyfish activate the phosphorescence in the water, and the resulting 'stars' in the water transform your little boat into a spaceship adrift in the heavens! There is a trailhead to a small lake at the east end of the bay. Watch/smell for bears. Next, head back out of Malaspina Inlet and go east toward Tenedos Bay. This protected anchorage is a great place to tuck into for a day of land-based exploration and fresh water swimming in Unwin Lake. I favor the shallow anchorage on the North side of the island, as close to the drying bar as possible (other boats won't dare venture in here, but with the M15, it is not a worry). The trailhead to Unwin is on the east side of the bay. Upon exiting Tenedos, don't try and do a shortcut to the north--there is a sizable rock out from shore. Head North around Otter Island (alternately, you can shoot the narrow channel between Otter and the mainland if conditions/tides are correct, but be careful) and head for Prideaux Haven. Prideaux Haven is supposed to be the quintessential Desoloation Sound destination, and it beautiful. It is also, alas, one of the most crowded destinations in the whole of BC. This is where you tend to see the highest concentration of mega-yachts. While there several years ago, there was a modest 200+ footer anchored right outside Eveleigh Island. After dinner, the guests sauntered up to the upper deck to board the helicopter for an evening tour of the surrounding mountains and fjords. I think you get my drift. I still suggest spending a night in either Melanie or Laura Coves, as both have shoal entrances that keep the monster boats out. This area is now a 'no-discharge zone.' In the 'old days', it was not unusual to see a parade of feces float by while you were eating dinner. This should at least happen with less frequency. I would reserve my swimming for later. After you have had your fill of the high life, head for the more sane waters of Roscoe Bay on the east side of West Redonda Island (across the Homfray Channel from Prideaux). You will want to time your arrival to clear the bar near the entrance to the inner bay. With an M15 or M17, you likely won't have to wait for a full high tide. I usually take the dinghy ahead to sound it out. At full high tide, you can easily get in/out. Traditionally, I anchor on the north side of the inner bay just a little past the drying bar. Again, most boats don't consider this due to draft, and seem to concentrate at the head of the bay (west end). Take your dinghy to the trailhead, and do the short hike to Black Lake. Keep going beyond the obvious end of the trail. This stunningly clear lake is flanked by perfect south facing (read warm) slabs of rock that slope down to the water. The water is not always warm, but it feels good to get rid of the salt accumulated while in Prideaux. We usually waste a day swimming and lounging around on the solar-heated rocks--usually in complete solitude. Black Lake is also a great place to watch/hear loons.
From Roscoe Bay, you can head back out the Homfray Channel to Refuge Cove on the Southwest tip of West Redonda Island (provisions), and if you still have time, head further north up the Lewis Channel for Teakerne Arm (more great swimming and a waterfall).
Points north of Desolation Sound tend to be less crowded, but fuel, provisioning, and water are harder to find. The following are excerpts from old post with some new information interjected [in brackets]: [One could also reference my specific equipment choices in the M15 weight section of the MSOG.] I can give you an idea of how we provisioned for our specific trip, but you will likely need to come up with a plan based on your specific itinerary. Some of our choices reflect our specific cruising philosophy. We do not like to have a cluttered boat (especially not one so small!), so we looked for areas to trim down. We wanted to have some meals that did not require cooking, so we adjusted our menu accordingly. For meals that did need cooking, we tried to come up with one pot recipes to simplify and expedite the process. We cook on a one burner Origo absorption alcohol stove (Origo 1500). I can't say enough good things about this stove. It is simple, safe (unlike pressurized alcohol), economical, and fast. We used slightly more than a quart of fuel in three weeks. We stow the stove in our dishpan in the locker under the port berth. [All I will say regarding the recent (and periodic) discourse on stoves is that I have used just about everything out there over the years, and for my money, the Origo is as close to perfect as it gets. One recent objection is that spilled fuel could ignite a spread an invisible flame, but the Origo fuel canister is designed so that it cannot spill. The generic objection that alcohol is not hot enough has not proven true in my experience. One quart of water boils in 6-8 minutes at sea level. I believe that this is at least closely comparable to the other alternatives. I think those objecting to the Origo based on their or someone else's anecdotal experiences with PRESSURIZED alcohol stoves owe it to themselves to at least try it.] We decided that we did not want to be bothered with a big ice box and ice. Last year was so hot in BC that ice would not have lasted long anyway. We carried a small collapsible, soft-sided cooler that we would use occasionally. One of the beauties of cruising in BC is the ability to provision en-route. This is especially true in the Gulf Islands, where you are rarely more than an hour or two from shoreside stores. In Jervis inlet and Desolation Sound, the opportunities are fewer, but you can still stock up in a few locations. We bought most of our nonperishable food before leaving the states, though there are excellent stores in almost every good size BC town. We relied on the local stores for produce, bread products, and good conversation. We liked the idea of supporting the folks along the way, and were usually rewarded with good local information. As an occasional treat, we ate at some of the many waterfront restaurants. Don't be surprised if you are invited on board other boats for meals. People are fascinated by the little M boats, and we had many offers. [With few exceptions, there are even more choices for provisioning and eating ashore than when this was written. Princess Louisa and Desolation Sound are still mostly or completely devoid of stores, so plan accordingly. The major islands of the San Juans and Gulf Islands are replete with everything you can imagine. There is now even a West Marine 'Express' store in Friday Harbor, and a full-blown West store in Sidney.] Our menu was heavily weighted towards "convenience" or partially prepared foods on this trip. In addition, my wife and I are both vegetarians, so our choices did not have to include a meat dish. Breakfasts would consist of bagels and creme cheese or instant oatmeal if we felt like dragging out the stove. We carried a few quarts of Rice milk in those non-refrigerated Tetra-Pak cartons for the occasional bowl of dry cereal (Mueslix type--more compact). Lunches would usually be some combination of fresh fruit (obtained en route, or before setting out for four or five days), some kind of sandwich (fake meat and tofu cheese--lasted four days without problems), and cookies. Dinners were usually cooked, though we had some contingency dinners that did not require cooking in case of bad weather or general laziness. We particularly liked the precooked Indian meals called "Tasty Bites" that come in plastic/foil pouches that need neither freezing or refrigeration. These can be eaten without warming, though we chose to warm the pouch in a pot of hot water, and then use the same water to cook the couscous (very quick). Other meals included Macaroni with canned vegetables tossed in, various rice creations that incorporated whatever we had lying around, etc. Snacks were cookies, Clif bars, fruit, etc. Boxed juices (single serving) were also nice, and relatively easy to stow. [With the advent of the 'Tetra-Pak' (foil-lined boxes) not requiring refrigeration, we have moved away from cans wherever possible. Many soups as well as soy and rice milk brands now emloy this packing. When consumed, the boxes fold flat to take up less space] Bert Felton, a former M15 owner, and his wife sailed in tandem with us. We would often raft up and share our various creations. Some were certainly better than others, but everything seemed to taste good after a hard day of sailing (or motoring as was more often the case last year), swimming, hiking, and rowing around in the dinghy. As for fresh water, we had two systems. I bought a 3 gallon Todd polyethylene water tank (West model # 486639) that fits perfectly beneath the cockpit floor and behind the centerboard pennant "tube." I then plumbed a fill hose to the port lazarette, a vent hose that goes way up into the port coaming, and a long clear vinyl hose with an outboard motor priming bulb on the end that is also stowed in the port lazarette. This system worked beautifully. We would fill the tank before each leg of the trip (usually at a fuel dock or govt. dock), and if we were careful, the water would last for at least four to five days. Whenever we needed fresh water, we would simply open the lazarette, grab the hose, and squeeze-pump whatever was needed. The hose was long enough to reach anywhere in the cockpit, so we could rinse dishes over the side or wash down the cockpit, outboard, etc. The fill hose made refilling as simple as pulling out the 1 1/2" hose (had a cap on the end) out of the lazarette, and either filling by hose or collapsible bucket. In addition to the 3 gallon tank, we carried about 8 quart bottles of drinking water that we were certain was pure. Many of the places we went (Princess Louisa, Desolation Sound, etc.) had water available, but such water was accompanied by signs indicating that it should first be purified (was usually surface water from just upstream). We carried a small water purifier for this purpose. In the old days, we would just row over to a waterfall with a canvas bucket for all of our water needs. These days, it seems wise to take some precautions. [I have since replaced all of my potable water containers with the newer generation of Nalgene Lexan (available REI)--they don't carry a plastic taste. We also use the 'Camel-Bak' or 'Platypus' type hydration packs (with hose), and find these to be very convenient.] We devised systems for stowing the food and other provisions so that we would not have to tear the boat apart every time we needed a snack. Each morning, we would move snacks and water bottles to the starboard lazarette (shallow one on our boat) for easy access while under way. The rest of the food was stowed in duffels by meal. We stowed these duffels aft of the starboard berth. This made it easier to see what we had, and made meal times less of a hassle. We used one pot, two plates, two bowls, and two spoons. The dishpan doubled as stove storage box, and we used those new fangled H20 Sun Towels (fast drying for drying dishes). [I have retired my old H20 Sun Towels to boat washing/drying, and have replaced them with the new generation of 'Pack Towl', which is much softer and nicer to use] Whenever possible (was possible almost every day), we filled the Solar Shower and put it out on the foredeck. We showered almost every night--almost a necessity last year. Before the trip, Bert made a mosquito netting cover for the open companionway hatch. This proved to be one of our most useful pieces of equipment. It uses shock cord to hold the netting in place, and can be quickly removed and replaced for midnight trips to the porta-potti (kept at the aft end of the cockpit at night). Speaking of the porta-potti, we used it sparingly. At many of the BC Marine Parks (get a map of them in advance!), there are outhouses on shore. We rowed ashore whenever possible. Occasionally, we would row the PP holding tank to one of the outhouses for emptying, but with judicious use, we found we could go 4 to 5 days. Don't forget to fill the Porta Potti fresh water tank when you fill your domestic supply. [An increasing number of BC Marine parks are now 'no-discharge zones', so don't dump your waste into these otherwise prisitne harbours and bays. In US waters, discharge is strictly prohibited in all of the areas mentioned.] Fuel for the outboard is a primary concern when cruising these waters. It would be nice if you could sail all of the time, but if like us, you have a limited vacation window, you will do a lot of motoring. In some areas such as Prince of Whales reach, the winds cannot be relied on. If you are going to do the Princess Louisa trip, you need to have fuel for at least 80 miles of motoring. We carried a tempo three gallon fuel tank plus three one gallon Rubbermaid tanks. You may need more depending on your powerplant and the conditions. We have a Honda 2HP LS outboard, and I based our consumption on my experience with this motor. Refueling underway became something of a ritual. Fortunately, I had rigged up a system to address this prior to the trip. I purchased a Tempo fuel line assembly (includes hose and pump bulb) and attached this to the three gallon Tempo tank. On the end of this hose I placed a brass fuel shutoff valve. On the other side of this valve, I attached a short length of hose. This system allowed me to refuel while underway by removing the cap and squeeze-pumping in the needed amount of gas. I was pleased with how well this worked. Bert tried to devise a system that allowed fueling without removing the cap, but no matter what he tried, the fuel would squirt out of the cap vent. [I still think that this Tempo tank/bulb pump/hose-end shutoff valve refueling system for internal tanks is the best for this kind of cruising. While the recycled oil container idea (from Connie, I believe) might be ideal for short trips, we are talking about a carrying a lot of fuel for cruising of this nature. Furthermore, I was reminded of another reason why this system comes in handy when I boarded a Washington State Ferry last week. There are now large signs at most ferry terminals prohibiting the carrying of gasoline in cans. With my tank/pump system, I pump any unused fuel directly into the truck (another advantage of a four-stroke). My friend was once required to fill all of his empty gas cans with water at the terminal--they are serious about this!] Question: where do you store your gas cans? I have been keeping my gas out of the lazarettes by using a plastic eggcrate type box in the aft end of the cockpit. Your re-fueling system confirms an idea I had been toying with. Glad to hear it actually works. One more question: What kind of dinghy do you use? For this trip, I kept the cans in the very aft part of the cockpit (under the tiller). If I am remembering correctly, the Tempo 3 gallon fit perfectly in a transverse orientation (read sideways!), and the other tanks lined up perfectly in front of those. [I still keep the fuel in the aft portion of the cockpit while motoring. When cooking, I move it to the dinghy] As for the dinghy, I bought a West marine RU-260 back in 1997 intending to use it with a Falmouth Cutter that I had my eye on. I got an incredible deal on it because it was a 1995 model, and West had switched from Force 4 to Zodiac as the supplier of the "West" brand dinghies and sportboats. It is, however, similar to the current Zodiac made "West" RU-260. The latter has a pram style bow instead of the v-bow mine has, but both are hard transom, wood slat floor, 8'6" dinghies. I am very happy with mine. The four of us rowed all over while in BC (Bert's old Achilles developed a fatal leak). My wife adopted the dinghy as hers, and would disappear for hours while Bert and I discussed the merits of various M 15 improvements. If I were to buy another dinghy, and anticipated only two passengers, I would take a very close look a the Bombard AX-MINI (see 1999 West Master Catalog, page 179). While it would be possible to roll/stow the RU-260 on an M15, it sure would not be easy. The AX-MINI is a little lighter and smaller. We towed the dinghy everywhere (used Regatta Lite line from New England Ropes/West--it floats!). It might have slowed us down a bit, but you use the dinghy so much up there that a little speed penalty becomes and acceptable tradeoff (Almost every anchorage is a combo bow anchor/stern shore-tie, and thus you spend a lot of time rowing ashore). [There are now numerous alternatives and new models including the new inflatable 'hard' floor models that store more compactly.] Some other updates/info: 1) It is law in BC that mariners must carry current charts for the area where you will be navigating. You can get the BC Hydrographic Chart Catalog from West Marine, or directly from BC Hydrographics. Consider the 'bundled' Small Craft Chart books/packets for certain areas. 2) An understanding of tides and currents are critical in NW waters. Get the appropriate BC Hydrographic Current Charts and corresponding Washburne current tables well in advance, and study them. Make sure to mind any time differences/adjustments (for example, some do not correct for daylight savings time). 3) You will want a dinghy light enough to carry up long, gently sloping beaches (above the high tide line), and light enough to carry over sharp rocks, etc. A dinghy becomes something of a necessity in some areas for stern-shore ties and just getting ashore in areas with no docks. 4) Engines: There has been considerable discussion on the selection of appropriate outboards for the M-boats. I am loathe to step on anyone's toes, but in my humble opinion, the best outboard for Northwest cruising is a four-stroke of sufficient horsepower to punch through chop, currents, and efficient enough to make some of these longer trips without becoming a fuel barge (and for the previously stated fuel transfer/ferry issues). For me (and considering what is currently available), this means a minimum of a Honda 2hp/four stroke (preferably long shaft), or the Yamaha 2.5hp four stroke (only available as a short shaft right now). Unfortunately, neither choice (nor any other manufacturer) offers an integral charging system in this HP range. For the M17, I would think that a minimum of 4hp would be advisable. I really like the new Yamaha 4hp/four stroke for its light weight, but the Tohatsu based 4/5/6 HP/4-stroke (the Nissan, Mercury, and Tohatsu are identical) offer optional charging, which I strongly advocate. Also, the Yamaha and Tohatsu 4/5 are available with an internal tank AND a provision to hook up an external tank directly. The Honda 5 is still a tried/true model as well. I am not arguing that higher HP engines are essential for everyone, but I know that I have found the 2HP Honda just adequate on the M15 in deteriorating conditions. If it were made, I would go with a 3-3.5hp long shaft four stroke that weighed under 35 lbs (maybe someday!). For those considering 2HP motors on the M17 (exactly twice the displacement, and proportionately more wetted area than the M15), consider that this might be fine to get you to and from the dock, and for small lake/bay use, but I think you would find it sadly lacking for longer trips in bigger waters (i.e., Coastal, Great Lakes, Pacific northwest, etc.). 5) Boom tent/Dodger/weather canvas: As you likely know, the Pacific Northwest is not known for its continued dry, sunny weather. We have been remarkably fortunate to cruise during amazing weather, but I have experienced the flip side--namely weeks on end of gray, drizzly stuff. Both the M15 and M17 would benefit from a well designed boom tent, and it is almost a necessity on the M15. Bert Felton designed and built a dodger, lee cloths, and a boom tent for his former M15. I believe that Rich Cotrell patterned his excellent tent after Bert's design (I believe there are photos of Rich's tent on the MSOG). While it is never going to be ideal to be cruising such a small boat in inclement weather, at least you can stay relatively dry with properly designed canvas (Sunbrella) accessories. 6) Customs: In these times of elevated border tensions, I would suggest calling the various customs authorities in advance. The customs agents love to hear from you in advance (cell phone best, but can call on VHF as well), and will often let you through with minimum fanfare when you have the courtesy to call and ask questions/give them an estimated time of arrival. Also, this should go without saying, but park any attitude before going to the customs office/dock. I can't tell you how many times I have seen boaters with attitude/chip on their shoulder make life miserable for themselves (and the agents). I can tell you what agents (both Canadian and US) have told me--namely that they don't get mad--just even. I have watched boats literally torn apart while I was allowed to proceed without any search at all. 7) Don't be an ugly American (or ugly anything else): While cruising in Canadian waters, try to take the position that you are a grateful guest, not an entitled member of THE dominant world power. Not only is this the polite thing to do, but you will find that your Canadian hosts can be most gracious--even generous--to those who tread lightly. As amazing as the scenery and wildlife is, my fondest memories are the times that locals took us in when we were in need, or insisted that we come to their home or boats for meals--often begging us to come back and see them soon. Truth is, most Canadians are charitable to even jerks, but why go there? 8) Cell phone service coverage is growing annually. The San Juans have almost 100% coverage with my carrier (Cingular). Verizon seems to do well in BC waters, though in the Fjords, nothing works (not even Iridium at times). Alaska seems to be widely covered by AT&T (at least South/Central Alaska where I was this past summer. 9) Carry a handheld VHF: Most harbormasters monitor VHF 66A, and you want to have a reliable means of summoning help or information if you find yourself in a bind. Also, both NOAA (US) and MAREP (Canada) provide area-specific weather channels for the entire region. These forecasts can be invaluable in planning and safety. I favor handheld VHF's that accept both Nicads and Alkaline AA's. A typical handheld Nicad lasts only 8 hours before needing to be recharged via 12v or 110v shorepower, whereas you can carry a supply of Alkaline AA's to last an entire trip. My favorite is the Icom M2A submersible. 10) Seek local knowledge: I always try to strike up a conversation at fuel docks, harbormaster offices, stores, etc. Fisherman usually know better than anybody what to look for, and where the best anchorages are. 11) Know your boat: Conditions can change quickly anywhere in the Pacific Northwest. You should be familiar with the limitations of your boat as well as yourself. You should be well familiar with reefing, headsail changes, heaving-to, and of course docking and close quarters maneuvering. You should also have a working knowledge of charts and their symbols (for both US and Canadian Charts, which do differ somewhat). I like to occasionally refresh myself by studying NOAA Chart #1 (Nautical Chart Symbol Index) and the Canadian Nautical Chart Symbol Index. 12) Know the rules of the road: Many areas are busy with ferries, ships, and seemingly endless quantities of recreational boats. Know the rules--especially regarding ferries and other large vessels which have the right away due to their inability to maneuver. Don't stand your ground even if you think you are right. 13) Have fun in one of the most varied and beautiful cruising grounds in the world! Scott M15 #478 'bebe'