I am making pretty good progress on rebuilding the transom. More pictures at https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/603464630874... Henry On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 6:06 PM, Howard Audsley <haudsley@tranquility.net> wrote:
Henry:
I think you are going about this the right way and it looks like you are making good progress.
While you have it torn apart back there, take a close look at the molded in cockpit drain. Some of those coming out of salt water have had to be replaced. Your best access to it is now.
Howard
On Jul 12, 2014, at 12:01 PM, Henry Rodriguez wrote:
Thanks for all of the encouragement, everyone.
I managed to get the plywood out. The course of repair seems fairly straightforward.
I posted more pictures at https://picasaweb.google.co <https://picasaweb.google.copm>m/heinzir or
https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to wrapping
the
transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different carb) do work in the cutout.
here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, but will give you an idea of how to proceed) -
http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html
(click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.)
doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ...
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Yep!
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the transom (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). correct?
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir