I've used a sheet of 1/8 inch thick aluminum I've had kicking around my shop for years to fashion backing plates. It can be shaped if necessary, is not as clunky inside as wood or other thick materials, and one doesn't have to use long fasteners. The only downside is the plate can't be easily put to other uses, such as mounting a little eye strap for an interior attachment point (other than using the through bolts themselves). Not as fancy as stainless, but cheap, strong and pretty easily worked. t t _/\_ On Sun, Feb 16, 2014 at 9:10 AM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com>wrote:
Was reading one of Capt'n Pauley's columns, Small Craft Advisor, Mar/Apr, about using the proper materials for backing plates. Facing having to redo all my deck cleats and adding a couple I initially brushed off this article as having "been there, done that" but I am glad I read it because he mentioned his choice of backing plate material which was"G-10" fiberglass boards. They are solid fiberglass build up in board form and make excellent backing plates not being subject to corrosion, or rot, etc. Looking on the web for the material turned up "Wholesale Marine" which just happen to have an analagous material on sale at the moment. Jamestown disbributors also sells this material in 2x3 or 3x6 precut blanks which allow you to spend just enough for the material precut. Nice to know there is an industry out there built around catering to boatowner needs. Jerry, I also read where you are going to use vinylester fiberglass in your new 15'er. I had an S2 at one time and the bane of those hulls was blistering which was blamed on the vinylester resins used in the layup. Has something changed along this line of reasoning? My old boat had almost terminal blisters even with constant maintenance of bottom coatings.
Fair winds, Tom B Mont 17, #258