Of course, Rick, you can always launch the boat and do both bunk boards at the same time. lol. Did you make it to the sailing part that day?? Fair winds, Tom B On Thu, Apr 16, 2015 at 6:56 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom,
That's a neat idea, but I think I'll drop Lynne L in the water during the replacement. She lives at the marina, and if I work fast I may have time for a sail later :-)
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Thursday, April 16, 2015, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com');>> wrote:
Hi Rick, I used 2x6 yellow pine as clear as I could find to redo my bunk boards. The board cloth is available from most trailer dealers. Our local Ace has some. I bought 12 inch wide to wrap the 2x6 and used carriage bolts to refasten it to the metal brackets on the trailer. The yellow pine was also pressure treated. The staples I found at West Marine and were made of Monel. Very expensive but a must have for corrosion. I also found by tying a line around one side of the trailer and leading it up to a sheet winch on the boat I could tension it enough to allow me to remove a bunkboard while the boat was still on the trailer. Once replacing the board I simply changed sides with the line to the winch and did the other bunk board. A nice fun job that looks great when finished. Fair winds, Tom B, Mont.17, "AS IS"
On Thu, Apr 16, 2015 at 12:09 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Larry,
Thanks for the suggestion, but I've already bought the lumber. Do you remember the width of the carpet strips (i.e how much overlap did you allow?), and what kind of stainless fasteners did you use?
Thanks,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Thursday, April 16, 2015, Hughston, Larry@DGS < Larry.Hughston@dgs.ca.gov> wrote:
Rick, consider using Composite boards. I converted the wooden boards on my old M-15 with stainless fasteners for the carpeting. The composite is a bit more flexible than wood so you may want to double up on the thickness. You will never have to replace the composite if you also use stainless fasteners. Previous owner of a Monty 15 in the Sacramento Region. -LH
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats [mailto: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com <javascript:;>] On Behalf Of Rick Davies Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 6:10 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Pacific trailer fix
Thanks, Sandy and Bill. Bill, you're right about the lag bolts. I've already had to replace several of them, rusted out to nubs. Replaced them with stainless screws. Think I'll replace both boards while I'm at it.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Tue, Apr 14, 2015 at 6:25 AM, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com <javascript:;>> wrote:
I think you will see that the bunk was held on by hex head lag bolts going through the bracket into the bottom of the 2 x 4. I have started by using a clamp on the center, bolting the center bracket down first. Then bolt the ends. Won't be too difficult.
Might think about replacing both at the same time. When you back out the old lags, you may notice that they have rusted away and their diameter is quite a bit smaller than the new. If the other board still seems sound, just move it an inch on the brackets so the new bolts are biting into solid material, not the old holes, which may be a bit punky.
Bill
On Mon, Apr 13, 2015 at 9:23 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com <javascript:;>> wrote:
Hi all,
One of the bunk boards on my Pacific trailer has broken right at the middle support bracket and needs to be replaced. Has anyone had experience doing this? Looks like a standard 2x4, I assume pressure-treated. Does it need to be pre-formed, or can the bend be muscled in as it's installed? Doesn't look too hard, but if there are any hard spots it'd be good to know in advance.
Thanks for any advice,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L