George, I believe the M17, M23 and S17 use a stop pin to keep the CB from lowering beyond it desired depth. As for the M15, the board is light enough, that the stop knot on the pendant is used to adjust the depth of the CB. Skip -----Original Message----- From: George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats' <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Fri, May 10, 2013 7:49 pm Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture Dave How does the CB system know not to drop the center board beyond the proper distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk? George -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David Scobie Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:42 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture looks like the centerboard picture didn't attach ... now for a second attempt. :: Dave Scobie --- On Thu, 5/9/13, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
Scott:
...
as already discussed the pin goes through the
centerboard. i've attached a picture that shows the
'parts' of an M15, M17, M23 and S17 centerboard (all have
the same essential design just differing sizes based on year
of build).
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Wed, 5/8/13, Scott Larson <salarson2@comcast.net>
wrote:
I am in the process of getting
my newly acquired Montgomery 15 ready for
bottom paint. Since it will be sitting at a mooring,
I
think it will be
prudent to prep it with an epoxy barrier paint and
then
paint with my bottom
paint of choice. I have found a product that seems
to
get the hull nice and
clean. It is this highly caustic stuff, but tends to
get all the grub and
stains off the hull. I will be using a new product
by
West Marine (made by
Petit). They claim you should prepare the hull using
this stuff that costs
over 30.00 a quart to remove residual mold release
agent. I suppose it is
possible that there may still be some mold release
agent on
a 30 YO hull.
But even if there is, I have read that it can be
removed with warm water
and a sponge. Does anyone have any feedback on this
matter?
As for painting the bottom with barrier coat, is there
any
reason why I
cannot just paint over the small scratches with the
barrier
coat without
filling them? Also, there are some areas with small
blisters, about 1-2 mm.
What should I do with those?
Also, a few of the scratches seem to reveal green
gelcoat
beneath the white
gelcoat. Is it possible that the boat was originally
given a coat of green
gelcoat beneath the white gelcoat? This might
actually
make sense if the
entire mold were sprayed with white up to the
sheerstrake
first, then had
the entire inside of the mold sprayed up to the
sheerline
with green gelcoat
to get the green stripe. The other possibility is
that
the hull was
originally green and it was painted or given a new
gelcoat
up to the
sheerstrake. If that were the case, whoever did it,
did a pretty good job
of it.
As for the centerboard, the pin is covered with what
appears
to be a
silicone marine sealant on each side. Should I just
leave that alone and
hope for the best? Does the centerboard have a hook
at
the end where it
attaches to the pin? In that case held in by the
force
of gravity? From
the pictures of John Harris' repair, it appears that
he
re-set the pin
before putting the board back in.
Any insight would be great!
Scott Larson