Hi Tom, I followed the directions from Sean and others on my iron centerboard rehab. I had the board soda blasted and within 10 minutes coated it with 2000e. Took it home filled and faired and coated it many more times. It is holding up well. I cannot offer any advice on the bolt. Thanks Robbin On 9/7/2014 8:07 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Just dropped (well, not literally) my 180# cast iron centerboard. It is very rusty and one side is heavily eaten away. I have read all the very fine print on the Interlux cans of stuff I have. Still not sure how to proceed. I already have Interlux Watertite Epoxy filler and some Epoxy Primecoat left over from the deck. Also, on order, is the 2000E also from Interlux. The MSOG info states "...sandblasting, fairing rough areas with epoxy putty and then multiple coats of Interlux 2000E. After sandblasting I like to coat the entire board with epoxy before painting." Does that mean that it is preferable after sandblasting to just coat the entire board with epoxy? Epoxy after priming the cast iron with 2000E? Epoxy after priming the cast iron before fairing out the deep pitting in the cast iron?? First sandblasting, then epoxy filler, then priming with 2000E then epoxy the whole board before painting it???
I don't want to use the wrong order or the wrong stuff and have some layer slough off and take all the others with it.
Also concerning the centerboard- the stop bolt which catches the board as it is lowered in my boat was just through bolted with the nut and bolt head left proud of the sides of the centerboard truck. Can I safely counter sink these into the centerboard trunk without punching through into the ballast compartment? The upper pivot bolt is well recessed at both ends. (and)Also I have in mind to install a couple of stainless steel tangs inside the centerboard slot. One end of each would be through bolted by the bolt that catches the centerboard as it is being lowered. The upper end of each tang, about 8 inches long would be through bolted by another 3/8 inch bolt higher up on the centerboard truck. The through bolt there would be placed outside the swing of the centerboard as it is lowered. This second bolt would in effect help alleviate all of the cleaving force of a "runaway centerboard" should its pennant fray or become disconnected from the board while it is being lowered and prevent the lower catch bolt from being smashed out of the bottom of the centerboard truck. It looks like there is enough clearance inside the cb truck slot to allow for a couple of eighth inch thick tangs. Here also the question arises concerning being able to counter sink the bolt into the sides of the centerboard trunk without punching into the ballast compartment. Any thoughts on this procedure? Thanks for your thoughts on these matters. Tom B
Tom B, Mont.17 #258