Chris, I did get a bit of stuff in the paint until the last coat. I just picked out the bits of dust and sanded very lightly between coats. Wen I did the final coat, I waited for an absolutley still day and wet eveything nearby down to keep the dust down. I had big poly tarps tied between trees on either side of the boat. A bigger problem was keeping my own sweat from dripping in the paint or on the unpainted surface. The heat also speeded up drying time which helped. I am currently sanding Griselda's bottom and topsides for barrier coat and painting. Being an early boat, Griselda has the perforated aluminum toe rail and I will attch struts to the toe rail to keep her upright when I remove the trailer bunks on one side at a time to paint the bottom. I will then jack up the trailer bunk brackets to paint the bottom of the keel. Griselda has a cast iron iixed keel only found on 20 of the first year boats. Remember, if you screw up, you can sand it back down and try again. Ron M17 #14, Griselda Lake Livingston, Texas.
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 17:02:01 -0600> From: chris.r.smith@gmail.com> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: painting hull> > Neat. Now I'm starting to get excited!> How did you keep dust and stuff from embedding in the paint during drying?> > On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 4:54 PM, Ronnie Keeler <ronkeeler@hotmail.com>wrote:> > >> > Chris, I refinished the teak trim using a marine varnish with a high UV> > factor. First, I wet washed the teak using a scotchbrite pad and Mean Graan> > to remove the dirt and grime and rinsed it thouroghly. Then I lightly> > sanded till I had a smooth, light uniform teak color. I had all the teak> > removed so I was able to go out each day and apply a light coat. I used> > Captans Choice Marine spar varnish with UV shield which is now marketed> > under the Rust Oleum brand name. To turn the boat over, I first "launched> > the boat off onto the grass and recruited a group of young strong neighbors.> > We set up concrete blocks with a pad of high density foam about 7 feet to> > one side and by brute force, turned the boat over and set it on the blocks.> > Having used Captans choice products a few times in the past, I went with> > the Rust Oleum brand marine paint (same product) from Lowes. After painting> > and 5 days drying time, I laid strips of styrfoam on the ground and had my> > strongman crew flip it over onto the foam strips. I then winched the boat> > back onto the trailer as if at a launch ramp. A good carpet of St Augustine> > grass wet down with a water hose allowed the boat to slide easily. One piece> > of advice I will add is to make sure the surface is absolutely clean before> > painting or varnishing. I wash it with a mild detergent followed by a> > wipedown with acetone just before painting. I have a compressor and spray> > gun and have painted several boats and cars over the years. The first time> > out, if you get a spray gun setup is to get some scrap sheet metal and> > practice until you are able to lay down a smooth paint coat without runs,> > orangepeel or fuzzyness.. Trying to put on the paint too thick is a sure> > way to get runs. More light coats work better. After the first one, the> > rest are easy. I estimate that i have done about 18 boats over the 55 years> > I have been sailing. Good luck. RonM17 #14, GriseldaLake Livingston, Texas>> > Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 16:21:50 -0600> From: chris.r.smith@gmail.com> To:> > montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: painting> > hull> > Wow! That's exactly what I was looking for.> Did you refinish the> > teak trim? If so, how? I've heard sanding or teak> oil...> > On Tue, Dec 30,> > 2008 at 3:52 PM, Ronnie Keeler <ronkeeler@hotmail.com>wrote:> > >> >> > Chris,> >> > I just recently refurbished a Boston Whaler Harpoon 5.2 that> > had been> > damaged in Hurricane Rita. Once all the nicks and dings were> > repaired using> > fiberglass and Mrine-Tex putty I coarse sanded the entire> > hull followed by> > fine sanding and then wet sanding. I had the hull upside> > down on concrete> > blocks padded with high density foam blocks. I masked> > and skirted the rail> > area to protect the deck and cockpit and spray> > painted the hull with one> > coat of marine primer and three coats of> > Acrylic marine enamel. I then> > masked and painted the boot stripe in the> > origonal light blue. I then> > righted the boat and repaired and painted the> > cockpit and deck area and> > re-installed all the hardware and teak trim.>> > >> > After adding origoanl style decals and stripes, the boat looked like> > new.> > I have done several boats over the years the same way and many have> > lasted> > for 15 or more years looking good. As soon as the weather warms up> > a bit, I> > will paint Griselda, my 1974 M17 that I am restoring.> >> > Ron>> > > M17 #14, Griselda> > Lake Livingston, Texas.a > To:> > montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>> > Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 16:35:31> > -0500> From: jslubliner@aol.com> Subject:> > Re: M_Boats: painting hull> >> > Chris Smith: One time many years ago, we> > flipped a bare hull Venture 21> > over on some?boards over the trailer frame> > and?ran it down to Earl Shibe> > (we paint anything). They?masked the deck for> > overspsray and did the> > hull, up to the deck line. Professionally?painted and> > baked. It?held> > up?well for?over 20 years, and we got the hull, keel and all> > without any> > hanging marks or strap marks. Pretty basic, but depending on> > what you> > plan to do, this would beat spray cans, brushing, and you are using> >> > technicians who have done spraying before.......> > John in Tucson> > >> >> > -----Original Message-----> From: Chris Smith <chris.r.smith@gmail.com>>>> > > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <> >> > montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>> Sent: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 1:41 pm>> >> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: painting hull> > > > cool. Thanks, John.> I've never>> > > done anything like this before so any advice/training/ideas on> how the> >> > process went would be great.> > Details like how he got at the hull to> > paint> > (suspend? jack it up?), if he> brushed or sprayed it, how to keep> > the coats> > even (such as painting around> straps if suspended), how many> > coats to put> > on, etc. would certainly be> appreciated.> > Did he fill the> > dings with> > epoxy? Bondo? I fiberglassed some holes in the> hull and build> > up some worn> > parts (where they dragged it up from the bottom> of the> > sea?) with bondo, so> > I've got some experience in doing that - I just>> > don't know if that's the> > best way. The keel has a pretty worn part that>> > needs to be built up and> > glassed, so I've got some work to do before>> > painting...> > My sailing> > buddy/teacher/dad introduced me to appliance> > paint in a spray> can, which> > I've used with some success in painting some> > household stuff and> getting a> > good glossy finish. Does that sound like a> > reasonable> alternative?> > Also,> > how expensive is the paint and how much> > did you use?> > Thanks again for all> > the help!> > Chris> M15 -> > Persephone> > On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 2:13 PM,> > John R. Butler <> > theoldcat@cox.net> wrote:> > > For Chris: My '86 had badly> > faded> > gelcoat. My sailing buddy (half my> > age and thrice my capabilities,> > I'm> > 80 and fully disabled) wet sanded> > the entire hull, filled all dings,> >> > then painted it with an automotive> > two-part poly paint. Above the water,>> > > will last for years just like> > the new cars do. It is BEAUTIFUL! I can>> > > give color photos and paint> > specs off line if wished.> >> > John R.> >> > Butler> > theoldcat@cox.net> > First M15 was "Joy", '83 #264> > Now sail>> > > "Rejoyce!", '86 #361> >> >> >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________> >> >> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >>>> > > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> > > > -- > Chris>> >> > _______________________________________________>> >> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >>> > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> >> > _______________________________________________>> >> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >>> > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> > _________________________________________________________________> > It's> > the same Hotmail(R). If by "same" you mean up to 70% faster.> >> >> > http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broad1_122008>> > > _______________________________________________> >> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >>> > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> > > > -- > Chris>> > _______________________________________________>> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >> > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> > _________________________________________________________________> > It's the same Hotmail(R). If by "same" you mean up to 70% faster.> >> > http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broad1_122008> > _______________________________________________> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >> > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> > > > -- > Chris> _______________________________________________> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
It’s the same Hotmail®. If by “same” you mean up to 70% faster. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broad1_1...