Mary, My comment is for ‘best case scenario’. Boat stored dry and in water only when you are actually sailing. Much ‘easier’ on the boat regarding corrosion, and all maintenance. Because I am ‘picky’ and was in marine business, I won’t even consider a boat with bottom paint on it as I dry sail my boats. If you want it in the water for ready access or ? Then go for it! BTW - you will probably like the Capri 22, it is a good plus sailing and designed boat- have fun with it! GO On Sat, Jul 9, 2022 at 8:15 PM mary campbell via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
That is what I figured. I guess it sails dry on the trailer!!!!
My plan is to put the boat in salt water from April to October, so I do need to use bottom paint and I DON'T want to worry about it leaking or binding. Maybe that is just not possible.
A friend has loaned me her Capri 22 for the Salish…not my boat of choice, but beggars can’t be choosers, can they? The guy with the 1982 in Pe Ell has settled on $6200 as an asking price and I think he is dreaming for a 40 y/o boat with a rusty CB and NO equipment beyond what it came with from the factory in 1982 - no motor, no electricals, old motor mount, no ladder, original sails eaten by chipmunks and repaired, painted trailer (new tires), original rigging….
So I’ll do the Salish and maybe find a boat for sale from someone doing their ‘last adventure’ in it….
Thanks for the input. Gary’s email didn’t reassure me about my plan for my eventual boat.
On Jul 9, 2022, at 7:31 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Mary:
Dry sail means when not sailing/cruising boat is kept on the trailer.
Not being upon water means no worries about anti-fouling paint, below waterline leaks etc.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: Baba 30 #233 DEJA VU :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com <<-- FOR SALE! :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com
On Sat, Jul 9, 2022, 6:00 PM Mary Campbell <sailmaryc@gmail.com> wrote:
I’m curious as to why you say it’s easier on the boat to dry sail it. And, also, I don’t really understand the term dry sail… How is the boat dry to be sailed?
Mary
On Jul 9, 2022, at 2:58 PM, Gary H.Oberbeck <fairandsquare1@gmail.com> wrote:
Plastic media blasting is much easier on the fiberglass than sandblasting. Either must be done VERY carefully.
I used to sand the paint off when I was in the business ( horrible for the worker, environment and anything near!)
Are you going to store the boat in the water? Only reason for bottom paint- I would avoid it at all costs if you can dry sail the boat- dry sail is cheaper, cleaner and MUCH easier on all parts of the boat. Not sure of your situation.
Just my one cents worth! Good luck have fun,go sailing! GO
On Sat, Jul 9, 2022 at 7:23 AM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Use a chemical stripper to get the bulk of the antifoul off. Some details and suggestions (many other reviews of strippers can be found by searching Practical Sailor's site) -
https://www.practical-sailor.com/brief/past-adventures-with-chemical-strippe...
Your fix for delamination is fine. Is the cockpit floor actually
flexing?
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: Baba 30 #233 DEJA VU :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com <<-- FOR SALE! :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com
On Sat, Jul 9, 2022, 7:10 AM E Blohm via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
I went to pickup my M-17 from the sandblaster yesterday and they
didn’t
even start on it! The owner of business was not present so I pulled it home thinking $900 was a little steep for paint removal anyway Maybe it was a blessing in disguise?
I think I’ll just remove it myself and save $$$.
I guess the options for DIY are Sanding/Scraping Or Chemically removing bottom paint. If anyone has a method please share.
I drilled 3 exploratory holes under cockpit floor yesterday and the interior core is bone dry despite many spider cracks in the non-skid and a subtle cracking sound when walking on it. I’ve been reading a bunch on Fiberglass repair and it seems like a simple delaminatiom. The one technique recommended is to use thinned epoxy injected into holes in the non-skid @3’ apart over delam area (pretty much all of it). Then sand and epoxy/paint. Does that seem like a good solution?
I have all the supplies now to start transom repair which I hope to start Monday.
Erik
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