Hi Bill: No did not change boom point. This link should work for pics of boat including companion way doors. http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150297389677141.354244.593022140&... Cheers, Shawn -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Bill Wickett Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 3:13 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Harken windward sheeting traveler Hey Shawn, Would like to see a pic of your companion way doors. Just a teaser showing in your traveller pic. Also notice your traveller is right forward in the cockpit. Did you also move the boom attachment point forward? Thanks. Bill On 3/15/12, Shawn Boles <shawn@ori.org> wrote:
Hi
Attached per discussion.
cheers, Shawn Boles Grey Mist (M17 #276 1978) Still for sale...Price is firm. Yar. Jerry can sure build 'em.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Bill Wickett Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 12:13 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Harken windward sheeting traveler
Continuous line on a standard car does work well as Jerry mentioned. A windward sheeting car's value is in being able to bring the car to windward without uncleating the leeward line. It is just a further development. Playing them is really the same.
If you are working to windward in gusty conditions, steering up in the puffs/gusts would be my choice to depower, vs easing the traveller or mainsheet. This also gets you higher on your course and allows you to aim lower later vs. having to tack up later when you can't quite make your waypoint/target etc. If you have to hold a particular course or have no room to head up, then you will have ease something, or just heel a bit more and hang on for the moment. (or have reefed earlier).
Ain't it fun? Can't wait to get back on the water.
Bill
On Thu, Mar 15, 2012 at 2:47 PM, jerry montgomery <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org
wrote:
I'm all in favor of controllable travellers and wouldn't be without one, but in my mind the value is in being able to pull the tra\veller to weather in light and sometimes moderate air- not in the ability to letting it off off the wind, which is better done with a vang.
I like to control it with a block and cleat at each end, so when you tack you can pull it UP quickly, from the weather side. If you use an endless control line you can pop it off on the other side as you tighten it.
Dave- can you senmd a pic of how you do it on the Sage, which is the same as I used to do on the M -17 as an optiion?
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.** xmission.com <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 10:36 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Harken windward sheeting traveler
Larry,
You actually don't lose much if any travel over the original pinstop car, which was limited by the pinhole positions, not the track length. I was hoping to gain a little.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Thu, Mar 15, 2012 at 12:17 PM, Larry E Yake <leyake@juno.com> wrote:
Shouldn't be any friction. The car runs on ball bearings. Sounds like
something doesn't fit right.
The end caps do shorten the track an inch or so on each side, compared to a standard cap, but I would recommend them. When you release the car to dump the wind in a gust the car will slam down to the low side very hard. The heavy duty end cap is padded with a two bolt mount, assuring that you're not going to break anything.
It might seem like a two foot track isn't worth much, but it makes a real difference in sail trim just moving the car a short distance.
Larry
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 06:36:37 -0400 Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> writes:
Larry,
Your setup is what I first had in mind. I thought of adding the turning block to keep the line low like in the Harken pictures, but your reasoning (and experience) seem to show it's not necessary. The reason I wasn't planning to use the Harken endstops is that they seem to cut several inches off the distance the car can travel. Is this a problem?
Thanks for the help. A picture's worth a lot of words.
By the way, there seems to be a lot of friction between car and track. Does this free up with use?
Thanks,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Wednesday, March 14, 2012, Larry E Yake <leyake@juno.com> wrote:
>>I will only have 2:1 - the deck block is only a direction changer so I can pull the car to windward from a seated position. The return to the becket tube is in accordance with the Harken instructions, adjusted so the car doesn't hit the other end of the track.
>>Larry, i want the car to be able to travel right to the end of the track. If the stop knot in the becket tube doesn't do the job I thought of glueing a heavy rubber pad to the cockpit side to take the impact. Would this work?
Rick, I have attached a picture of my rig. With this simple layout I can pull the car to windward easily in the strongest of wind conditions. No need to complicate things with extra blocks and lines. If I follow your plan correctly, you will be running the release line through a turning block near the end of the track. The problem I see with that is it will restrict your ability to yank the line up out of the cleat if you suddenly want to release the car. In gusty weather, if I have the car to windward at all, I sail with the release line in my hand instead of the mainsheet. Yanking it out of the cleat drops the car to leeward instantly, which dumps a lot of the air out of the main without destroying the sail shape like releasing the mainsheet will. Larry
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