Craig, I agree that there is some risk involved in sailing "stopped up". I sailed quite a bit on Potter 15's and it's SOP on those boats, so I'm pretty accustom to it. I would definitely want to remove the plugs early vs. later as conditions deteriorate. Additionally I'd be adding hatch boards. Bob -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-admin@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-admin@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Honshells Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 6:46 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: cockpit drain backwash Bob, Last summer I purchased corks for my cockpit drains from a camping supply store close my launch site prior to a 3-man camp-cruise (the weight of the three of us plus gear caused the boat to ship water under all weight-distribution scenarios): The corks worked great . . . But I can't help wondering . . . Isn't this somewhat dangerous, given that one could be caught in a Charless Fowlkes (a-la the discussion on M15 buoyancy) scenario? I mean, the drains are designed to dump a cockpit full of water in the event the boat were swamped . . . I guess, theoretically, or hopefully, one would have the time to pull the corks in a crisis. --Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Campbell" <racsrv@attbi.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 11:37 AM Subject: cockpit drain backwash Cal, I have had similar wet cockpit problems with my M17. I was getting water in from both the center board pennant, and the transom drains. My solution is rubber stoppers in the drains, and rubber rigging tape (the kind that only sticks to itself) wrapped around the centerboard pennant in a tapered fashion, and stuffed into the pennant hole. This keeps the cockpit dry as a bone, and when conditions start getting nasty, I pull out the transom drain stoppers. I figure, if there's water coming in over the combings, it doesn't much matter if there's water splashing in though the cockpit drains. All this is to say; maybe you could devise a way to plug the drain when you don't need the drainage. Cautionary note: If you keep your boat in the water or dry store it outside, don't forget to pull the plug(s) so that rain water can drain out! I read a story of a Potter 15 owner who came back to his "stopped up" boat after a rain storm to find his cabin flooded and boat half sunk! By the grace of God, I haven't pulled this stunt yet :) Fair Winds, Bob Campbell Montgomery 17 #615 "Alina" Lodi, CA -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-admin@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-admin@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Cal Spooner Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 3:32 AM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: cockpit drain backwash Steve, There is really no solution other than to get one of those mats that bartenders use (and boat shops sell) that are about 1" thick and made of alternating squares (checkerboard pattern) of rubber, trim it and throw it on the floor of the cockpit. The design of the drain makes water come up sometimes when tacking into the wind, and other conditions, in rough water... the waves force the water up; your "hydraulic pressure" analogy is correct. There is no simple solution to this... but the mat will keep your feet dry, and allow the water to drain back out. At 9:01 PM -0500 4/24/02, Steve McClellan \(at Home\) wrote:
It just so happens that I have been turning this issue (cockpit drain backwash) over and over in my head for the past couple of days.
The reason is, I recently removed the teak pennant guide and have ground away a good deal of the fiberglass around the drain hole, as a small part of a larger project that began a few weeks ago with a centerboard that wouldn't drop, and is going to end with a complete refurbishment of my keel stub, centerboard trunk, centerboard, and cockpit drain.
And the big question that has been getting me lately is: Why isn't there SOME permanent solution to the drain backwash problem on the M15s? There must be an answer. What is it?
With the teak piece gone, the drain opening is actually quite large, about 1 inch by 2 inches I'd say. BUT consider: it is at the top of an inverted triangular slot, the centerboard slot, which means that as water pressure causes water to move up the slot, it is progresively accelerated by the ever-narrowing passage, until it is forced with some considerably multiplied hydraulic pressure up the through the drain hole.
It seems like, with the centerboard removed, one should be able to install some kind of a "valve" or flap that would allow water to move downward with ease (necessary) but not UPward at all. Whatever kind of spring loading kept the valve flap up, it would have to be something weak enough that even small amounts of water from above would overcome it.
The other possibility might be some kind of a float that would jam itself up into the hole from below when water was moving upward.
Come on people, put on your thinking caps! I'm willing to be the guinea pig for whatever good idea we can come up with. (I've got the think all taken apart and up on stands anyway) It needs to be something both simple and reliable.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Pavuk" <mcpavuk@worldnet.att.net> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 6:42 Subject: M_Boats: cockpit drain
Is it normal to have water entering the cockpit from the drain? We sailed today and had a wonderful time - the only problem was a bit of water getting splashed up and getting our feet and the main sheet wet. I assumed self-bailing was a one way street somehow. Are we missing something? Cherri, M-15 # 322 -- Cal Spooner M15 #402 spoon@visi.com cspooner@mn.rr.com 763.574.1482
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