My understanding is that if there is a fiberglased hump under hatch under the v berth you’ve got iron ballast. #378 has iron, and is I think one of the later boats to have it. On Mon, Jul 5, 2021 at 10:41 AM Edward Epifani <edepifani@hotmail.com> wrote:
Does anyone know the cutoff date sail number for the transition to lead ballast? Jerry, if you are there, can you weigh in?
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On Jul 5, 2021, at 10:13 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul the centerboard M15/17/23 have the ballast encapsulated in the hull. The hull is one piece and then the mix of ballast material (steel washer centers on the old boats and lead BBs for those after middle-ish 80s) is poured in.
This is a good thing actually as boats with bolt-on keels have a long list of issues.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Mon, Jul 5, 2021, 10:09 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Bob, I thought that just the keel could be switched out. By your response, that's obviously not the case...
On Mon, Jul 5, 2021, 10:01 AM Bob Eeg <montgomeryboats@hotmail.com> wrote:
Paul. I have the mold…. Most don’t have the money or skill set. A new bottom would require the keel with centerboard trunk, centerboard, Lead ballast and the ability to glass into place. Not a good idea on an old M 15 worth 3 grand. Bob….
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On Jul 5, 2021, at 9:55 AM, Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Dave, Is there a mold of the Montgomery 15 keel somewhere? If I could make a replacement with lead instead of steel, I would. (So I don't have to worry about future pontential problems). Is there anywhere I could go to have a new one made? Paul
On Mon, Jul 5, 2021, 7:32 AM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Bruce.
Sail until the centerboard jams and then think about a repair.
You need to enter the keel from the sides by cutting access through the fiberglass skin. You then hammer/jackhammer out all the steel ballast (cast off centers from manufacturing washers). Weigh the removed ballast so you know how much to put back in. You then create lead bricks - 'cast' them by mixing with resin into forms. You place bricks in keel and bond them in place being sure to keeping the weight distribution right. Now fill voids with thickened resin. Now you fiberglass the keel skin, fair, sand more fairing until the shape is back to original then paint over the repair (type of paint needs to be that designed for full time submersion, not topsides, or just use anti-fouling).
Folks have done the repair. LOTS of work, maybe one of the can share pictures and more details, and why I recommend sailing until the centerboard begins to jam.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Sun, Jul 4, 2021, 10:24 PM Bruce Couchman via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
> Does anyone have information on the best way to replace the iron ballast > inthe keel? > I discovered a leak coming in on the port side about 6” aft of the join of > the keel with the bottom. it is additionally at the first edge of the first > “lap”. > I’m thinking ballast replacement because drilling into the area produced a > lot of rusty water. > Additionally, the lap is longitudinaly angled and protruding instead of > being a fair curve’ > the starboard side is similar but not so pronounced (nor leaking). > > No problem with raising or lowering the centerboard. > Any suggestions would be appreciated