"The Last Grain Race" by Eric Newby. Before making a career as a travel writer he signed on aboard the four masted barque Moshulu in 1938 for what turned out to be the last year of shipping grain from Australia to Britain by sail. Wonderful book. And the Moshulu is now a restaurant on the Philadelphia river front (although when I was there in February it looked closed - temporary?). It's a strange thing to climb a staircase in an up-market restaurant and emerge onto what appears to be the unaltered deck of a ship whose name has been familiar to me for as long as I can remember (the book was my father's). And to stand in the fo'csle, imagining what it was like while rounding the horn. And to look at the heads, remembering Eric Newby's lack of fondness for cleaning them.