Bill Another item to check are the copper tubes/cockpit thru hull drains. On a couple of boats I rebuilt, these were corroded. Also check the rubber hose connection for those drains. They are difficult to get too but worth a look. With a fresh water boat the corrosion might not be a problem, however a 29 year old drain hose might be something to look at. Bob
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 21:32:59 -0700> From: wdscobie@yahoo.com> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: what to look for in a used Mboat> > The following were important ‘condition of items’ for my inspection of SCRED (an M15 … I believe the issues are the same) along with what is on my M17 list when I’m ready to move up –> > * centerboard (’79 will be steel)> * ballast (’79 will be steel)> * rust (really ‘lack of rust) in the location of the centerboard pivot pin> * soft spots in the deck/cockpit> * standing rigging> * running rigging> * condition of the sails> * rudder, tiller gudeons and pintles> * outboard (and older motor isn’t bad as long as it runs well) and fuel ‘system’> * transom, motor mount and boarding ladder> * hull-deck joint and toe-rail (outside inspection and when in the cabin)> * stress marks on hull (spider webbing, etc) – these can show area(s) of impact> * hull condition: gel coat, rust spots, blisters (hard to see if bottom has anti-fouling)> * deck hardware securely attached (cleats, winches, pulpits, main sheet track, etc.)> * stress marks on deck (spider webbing, etc) – these can show area(s) of impact or overstress> * cockpit through hulls and hoses> * in cabin: galley model confirm the condition of the thru-hull and all the misc. bits for the stove and drawers> * in cabin: look for water stains. Look very carefully at the places where the hardware is attached through the cabin top> * general condition of cabin: cushions, liner, woodwork, potty, inside lockers under the V-berth and quarter berth(s), etc.> * electrical system condition: battery, panel, wires (look for poor quality splices and/or lack of ‘organization’ to the system), cabin light(s), VHF, depth sounder, running lights, masthead light, etc.> * hatch board condition> * condition of all woodwork> * forward cabin hatch condition (hinges, hatch, seals)> * cockpit locker hinges and interior conditions (may or may not have wet lockers)> * trailer: wheels, tires, axel, hubs, frame, boards, wires, hitch, safety chains, etc> * extra things ‘tossed into the package’: what are their conditions (ex, if they will give you a flare kit are the flares still good?)> * boat has a clear title> * trailer has a clear title> * confirm what is included with the purchase price. some owners don’t clean about the boat for a showing … so the nice anchor, chain, fenders, dock lines and PFD were present during inspection ‘but’ are not included. Check the condition of these ‘extra things tossed into the package’ (ex, if they will give you a flare kit are the flares still good?)> > no boat is perfect ... especially one that is 29 years old.> > I can also provide the ‘purchase agreement’ I made up when I bought SCRED.> > Arrive with a flashlight (and extra batteries) and notebook. Take lots of notes. A small mirror can also be helpful for looking around corners. Crawl into all spaces you can fit and ‘look around’ (such as crawling head-first into the quarter berth(s) . I also took my digital camera and took LOTS of photos. Talk to the owner about how he/she sailed the boat and why it is being sold. If possible take a person with your to act as a ‘devil’s advocate’ (not to ‘badmouth the boat, but to make sure you don’t get distracted).> > I would be VERY nervous not having a sea trial … simply this will confirm the boat doesn’t leak, the outboard really runs when under a load, the mast does stay up, the sails look correct (and if the headsail is roller-furling/reefing the hardware works), and the centerboard isn’t stuck (though sean mulligan may disagree on this last point …). Seeing the owner ‘put the boat togther’ is also a great help if you never seen it done before. Don’t worry so much about actually sailing … so if there is no wind rest assured the Mboat will sail GREAT!> > Don’t feel pressured to buy the boat ‘today.’ I know this is hard ;-)> It would be a good idea to step away from the boat with your ‘devil’s advocate’ and have a coffee and talk. Then come back and look at things once more.> > I’m sure others can give more suggestions. Have fun looking!> > > dave scobie> M15 #288 – SCRED> Visit Scred’s www-site – www.freewebs/m15-named-scred> > > Bill Kaiser <whkaiser@gmail.com> wrote: Looking at a M17 tomorrow built in 1979 the owner his here in Phoenix.> > Need help: what to look for in a used boat asking price is $7000.> > Thanks for the help, Bill> _______________________________________________> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> > > > _______________________________________________> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats