Hey Daniel, Congrats on your new-to-you M15. Nice to have another M-boat in Sonoma County. As to the timing of your repair, remember that epoxy will create a chemical bond to itself so long as it has not fully cured so you can go ahead and add the thickened epoxy before the un-thickened stuff has completely gone off. When it goes off, of course, depends on the type of hardener you are using, the volume of the epoxy and the temperature at the time. All of that depends on the amount of core you need to saturate and the size of the hole you need to fill. Mix small batches, even in this cool weather we're having because large volumes of epoxy will heat up and go off in the container before you can use it (I know this all too well!). If the deck is not soft around the fittings or the core is not noticeably wet or damaged when you inspect it, you can skip the bent-nail routine and just over-drill the hole and fill with thickened epoxy, re-drill to the correct size and rebed the fittings with polysulfide as per Don Casey. Also, I have found that the clear plastic tape used to seal cartons works better than duct tape because you can see through it to be sure you have filled the hole completely, epoxy will not stick to it and it leaves no sticky residue when you pull it off. Over-drilling holes is kind of a PITA, but it pays off in peace of mind. Be safe with epoxy. Wear nitrile gloves and maybe a respirator. Colloidal silica is ridiculously light and gets into the air very easily and is not a good thing to get into lungs. Hope this helps, Cheers, George (long time lurker, sometime contributor, to this list.) M15 #385, which has been, sadly, long unused and covered in horse paraphernalia in my garage in Santa Rosa. (There is hope: the horse is for sale, not the boat!) 8 ft Tender Behind, wooden lapstrake sailing/rowing dinghy, built with West System epoxy. On Feb 22, 2011, at 9:11 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
So, my plan, is to take off the hardware and inspect the holes. Then I will use the bent nail drill bit technique to remove some core as needed, and vacuum out. Then I will tape the holes from behind with duct tape, and inject using a syringe West Systems 105 epoxy with hardener and fill the holes. I understand that I have to squirt it in a few times, as the balsa absorbs quite a bit. Any idea of the timing of that? Do I squirt, wait a few minutes and squirt again? Or do I squirt, wait a few hours and mix a new batch? Once done, I'm supposed to then mix a fresh batch with the colloidal silica as paste and inject for a final fill. Does this seem like a good plan?
Then, when cured in a day or two I will redrill the holes, and use 3M 4200 to bed the fittings.
Still just a little confused about the timing of the epoxy.
Daniel
On 2/21/2011 4:36 PM, Ken Wheeler wrote:
Daniel, I've do the same thing on both my M boats. So feel free to call if you get stuck. Ken (The Windsor one)
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+wesi=comcast.net@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+wesi=comcast.net@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Rich Sent: Monday, February 21, 2011 2:55 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Rebedding deck hardware
I'll see what it looks like when I get the stuff off. It may be very easy to do just that.
Daniel On Feb 21, 2011, at 1:33 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Not sure what you meant by "won't epoxy the ones that aren't leaking." Does that mean you are only going to drill out; epoxy fill; and, redrill just the holes that had leaks?? I'd do all 18. ----- Original Message ----- From: Daniel Rich To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Monday, February 21, 2011 4:05 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Rebedding deck hardware
On my way to west marine now. Looks like 18 bolts have got to be done. One life line rail, bow pulpit, and 1 cleat. Only 3 leaks, but gotta pull those parts. Won't epoxy the ones that aren't leaking.
Daniel
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 21, 2011, at 12:47 PM, W David Scobie<wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
daniel:
below are my person 'definitions and uses' with the products discussed -
5200 - below waterline applications. use for fittings you will _never_ (essentially) remove. 5200 is excellent and 'permenant' adhesive and sealant. 4200 - above waterline applications. a challenge to remove but can be done (carefully so as not to damage the surface ... ie the gelcoat) 4200 is an a sealant and a good adhesive. Life Calk - above waterline applications. not difficult to remove but you must re-bed your hardware more often than with 4200. life calk is a sealant and a weak adhesive.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 - SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com :: Sage Marine - www.sagemarine.us
--- On Mon, 2/21/11, Daniel Rich<danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote: Why not 4200? 5200 seems to weak.
Daniel
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