September 2021 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Bow pulpit. My boat did not come with a bow pulpit. Is there any resource for getting one made or used.
by Doug 14 Aug '22

14 Aug '22

New member here from Bend, OR. just bought a Montgomery 15. ⁣Sent from BlueMail

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Re rig
by Jon Barber 19 Nov '21

19 Nov '21

Has anyone rerigged their 17 with dyneema? I am considering rerigging my boat and would be interested in any tutorials or ideas. Thanks, Jon Barber Monty17 Ol'44

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Montgomery 15 rudder
by Lee Kiefer 27 Sep '21

27 Sep '21

I’m a new owner. The rudder is cranky about kicking up. I recently made contact with something underwater and it chipped the rudder slightly but didn’t kick it up. I haven’t found any helpful suggestions so far so I’m hoping someone can offer a suggestion or two. Thanks, Lee

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Gooseneck inspection lesson…
by Gerry Lempicki 26 Sep '21

26 Sep '21

So we’ve had our Montgomery 17 for a few years and have been sailing it a lot during the summer months in Vermont. Today we headed to the boat with a stronger wind forecast; we’re now comfortable with a reef in between 14-16 knots, but never had to put in two reefs yet . I thought today might be the day to experiment as I measured 18 knots gusts on our mooring. But before I even raised the main, we had a failure. I guess I haven’t been inspecting this close enough. As I tightened the out haul in preparation of raising the main, the boom jumped forward. I went to the mast and was surprised to find this (see picture). Now we’re on the way to see my brother with a TIG welder. -Gerry

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Maintenance questions
by Andrei Caldararu 23 Sep '21

23 Sep '21

Hello fellow Monty owners, first off, I apologize for having to register a new account on the mailing list, somehow my old account seems to have been bungled up and I was not able to recover it. I have two new maintenance questions: a) The rudder on my 1982 M-17 is the one-piece solid mahogany style. When I got it with the boat about 10 years ago it was wrapped in fiberglass, and coated with a couple of layers of some marine varnish. This summer I kept the boat moored in fresh water, and last time I went to it I noticed that large parts of the fiberglass were peeling off. Is the fiberglass needed, or should I just remove it and re-coat the wood with varnish? If I need to redo it all in fiberglass, what should I do to prevent it from peeling again? b) I have a small leak into the cabin around one of the screws that holds the wood hand rails on top of the cabin. I understand that it is important to re-bed the hand rail before the moisture gets inside the balsa core of the cabin top. What is the procedure for doing that? To begin, how does one remove the small wood caps that are covering the screw heads, without destroying the caps? What material do people recommend for the bedding procedure? Thanks,Andrei.

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(no subject)
by Jon Barber 22 Sep '21

22 Sep '21

Half round stiffeners Hull #44 has half round stiffeners in the same places as John S described. Does this boat have a solid fiberglass house? I have a foam material under the cockpit sole and hatches. One edge has delaminated. I made a temp fix ( plywood glued between the hulll and deck mould under the failure) but how should this repair be made permanently? I know it won't be easy to get to. Jon Monty17 Ol’44

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My clew reefing setup and outhaul - pictures
by John Schinnerer 22 Sep '21

22 Sep '21

Have these organized now so easy to find and send. Need to get them up on my website some day for even easier reference. This is on an M17 so might be a bit tighter for space on an M15 boom but then maybe could use smaller cleats, line, etc. also. Two pics show the outhaul rigged as in the now-gone video I mentioned last post. Bowline loop at end of line. You can just see the tip of the loop between boom and boltrope. Feed free end under & around boom, through bowline loop, through cringle, then to outhaul block. Keeps clew close to boom without any other line or hardware needed. Other pics show (may not be attached in this order): Rear of boom with outhaul routing block and first reef block with lines in place. Clamcleats forward on boom for outhaul and first and second reef. Boom from rear to clamcleats (big picture view of the setup). There's no second reef line in place in the pics but you can see the block and clamcleat for it. Clamcleats are just aft of the vang bail, you can see it forward of them in a couple of the pics. If anyone wants the full size pics for seeing more detail let me know off list. HTH, John -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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Montgomery 15 Outhaul
by David Grah 22 Sep '21

22 Sep '21

I lost track of the emails that discussed this though a few years ago I bought a replacement boom from Dave Scobie / Sage Marine that has either a 4 to 1 or 5 to 1 advantage on the outhaul on the main. Dave may remember more about it than I do even though I use it pretty much every time we sail. I like being able to easily adjust tension in the main depending on wind and direction of sail (not that I know what I am doing but I like doing something!). The sail is a loose footed main from Elliot Patteson. The main this one replaced had a bolt rope foot and I prefer the loose foot main. I've talked myself into thinking the lower part of the sail has a much better shape with the loose foot. David GrahBishop California

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M15 lose foot main
by Jim Sadler 19 Sep '21

19 Sep '21

Ahoy Skippers Just bent on my new main form Elliot Paterson. It is Bristol! Any suggestions on how to rig the outhaul for easy trimming? It almost seems like the boom could be 3 in longer. Capt Jim SV Pelican M15

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Outhaul hardware and reefing
by Jon Barber 18 Sep '21

18 Sep '21

I changed my outhaul set up to provide a simplified reefing system that allows me to remove all the reefing hardware, including those reef lines that are always getting tangled. The outhaul terminates at a snap shackle. It operates like a standard outthaul, but the snap shackle allows me to move it to the reef cringle (either one) and use it to tension the sail in reefing situations. A soft shackle is also worked thru the reef cringes and are made up around the boom. I use a dinghy sheet tackle to tension the sail at the mast. This system greatly simplifies reefing and eliminates most of the reefing hardware. This is all new to my boat and I am still practicing reefing this way. This idea I found on the Video Ramblers YouTube channel. The subject boat is a Goat Island Skiff. Jon Barber Monty 17 Ol'44

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