July 2018 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

new hatch boards
by michael hettler 22 Jul '18

22 Jul '18

To:montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com‎Jul‎ ‎22 at ‎8‎:‎31‎ ‎AMPicture of my project for the summer, new marineboard hatch boards. $70 for piece of 1/2 by 24 by 54, $6 for a piece of 6 by 12 inch 1/4, some stainless screws. Measure twice, cut once outside lines and plane to size, Hatchboards never to rot again. Mike HettlerM15 Annebonny

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M23 Baseball Hat
by Theo Petron 18 Jul '18

18 Jul '18

Are these still available anywhere? I lost mine overboard on Saturday and need a new one. Cheers! Theo M23 Sails Increase

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Boom tent
by Jon Barber 14 Jul '18

14 Jul '18

My boom tent uses a stock gray tarp over the boom and three fiberglass tent poles salvaged from a defunct tent. The poles go thru the grommets front, back and center and bungees pull them down. They are attached to holes in the metal toe rail. The front edge can be attached to the shrouds for extra security and the tarp and poles can be stretch cord attached for and aft at boom and mast. My description may sound complicated but this goes together in minutes and is pretty secure. Roll to stow with bungees inside. Jon Barber Monty 17 Ol"44

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Re: M_Boats: cockpit boom tent
by Dave Scobie 13 Jul '18

13 Jul '18

Attached is a photo of SWEET PEA's. I've also used it on my M15 (actually made for my old M15 SCRED), and the Sage 17 and Sage 15 & SageCat (though short for the SageCat with her ling boom). More details needed let me know. :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com On Thu, Jul 12, 2018, 12:44 PM <jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org> wrote: > I had the sailmaker make up a 7X7 tarp of acrylan with a grommet in each > corner, then used two whisker poles to go in front and back, and a line > off > each corner. it can be set up with the poles either over or under the > boom, > and can easily be canted either way to dodge the sun by adjusting the > corner > lines, which go down to the rails. I learned this from some of my > cruising > buddies in Tucson, who sail in Mexico. Even more proof that I know how to > listen, despite what some say. A 6X6 tarp works well on the 15. When > sailing I roll everything up together and lash it to the toe rail. > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Schinnerer > Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2018 12:06 PM > > > I've done all my cruising in warm weather, mostly in Mexico, where I do > > everything in the cockpit under a boom awning, and the area below is > > necessary only for stowage, and this influences my thinking. > > Makes sense...I hope to do some of that kind of warm weather cruising > but sometimes I'll also be in the northwest, where it's nice to be able > to hunker down in 'adequate comfort' below for a little while. > > Care to share your design for M17 boom awning? > > cheers, > John > > > -- > John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design > -------------------------------------------- > - Eco-Living - > Whole Systems Design Services > People - Place - Learning - Integration > john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 > http://eco-living.net > http://sociocracyconsulting.com > > >

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Re: M_Boats: Rudder Rod
by Dan Farrell 13 Jul '18

13 Jul '18

You can also buy replacements in the material of your choice from onlinemetals. Dan Farrell M17 #301 John Schinnerer <john(a)eco-living.net> wrote: >Duckworks Boat Building Supply has the rods, in silicon bronze. >http://www.duckworksbbs.com/product-p/fas-sbrr-parent.htm > >Up to 3 ft. length...I think that is enough, not sure without going to >measure. > >I have the second option Jerry describes on my boat, 1/2" rod turned >down to 3/8" at bottom with bottom gudgeon 3/8". > >cheers, >John S. > > >On 06/29/2018 02:29 PM, jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org wrote: >> Silicone bronze is fine; aluminum bronze is better, stainless is a >> distant third. it's 1/2", I don't remember the length but it shouldn't >> be hard to figure it out. For many years we used 316 stainless and >> drilled holes at the base to lock the rod in place with cotter keys but >> too many of them went bombs away when being installed so when we >> switched to alum bronze we had a step milled in the base, to /3/8", and >> changed the bottom gudgeon to 3/8, which is what we should have done in >> the first place. If your bottom gudgeon is drilled to 1//2" I'd suggest >> taking it to a machine shop and having I plate welded on, drilled to >> 3/8. At the same time have them turn about 3/4" of the end of the rod >> to 3/8 and you're gopopd to go. Don't forget the bedding. >> >> You can probably get the rod from McMasters. >> >> -----Original Message----- From: Dave Scobie >> Sent: Friday, June 29, 2018 1:56 PM >> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats >> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Rudder Rod >> >> The rod is silicone bronze. Not sure the dimensions as mine is currently >> in use keeping the rudder on the boat ;-) >> >> Today is #61 living aboard! >> >> >> :: Dave Scobie >> :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com >> >> On Fri, Jun 29, 2018, 1:53 PM Kevin Sandwick <ksandwick(a)hotmail.com> wrote: >> >>> Looking for information on the rudder control rod. >>> >>> The shaft is bent on the boat I recently acquired. I was able to install >>> the rudder but due to the bends in the rod I cannot raise the rudder. >>> >>> Is this part available or do I need to have one made? >>> >>> I have found an online source for C464 "Marine" brass but could use info >>> on exact dimensions or better advice. >>> >>> As always.....Thanks. >>> >>> Kevin >>> >>> M-17 #400 (1985) >>> >> >> > >-- >John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design >-------------------------------------------- >- Eco-Living - >Whole Systems Design Services >People - Place - Learning - Integration >john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 >http://eco-living.net >http://sociocracyconsulting.com >

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(no subject)
by jerry＠jerrymontgomery.org 13 Jul '18

13 Jul '18

28 boats signed up for the Cruiser Challenge. There are 3 M-17’s, 3 M-15”, and a Sage 17. C’mon, girls- we can do better! Some of us are having our own race on Sunday; anything goes, incl spinnakers (except motors)! Watch Marty and I destroy Gary O and Paintboy Stan in their tall rig! Humble pie for them! (hopefully).

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Use of the Galley
by Jason Leckie 12 Jul '18

12 Jul '18

Just curious, does anybody actually cook in their galley or do they generally do most of it in the cockpit? As well, my sink drain and through hull fitting for the drain has been removed and the hole glassed over. Might it be worthwhile to reinstate?

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cleats
by David Grah 12 Jul '18

12 Jul '18

I believe the cleats on my 1986 Montgomery 15 are original and I have always been happy with them. Message: 1 Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2018 12:52:09 -0700 From: doug <doug9326(a)gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: M_Boats: cleats Message-ID: <67DA86B7-D086-4333-B48D-74F22D61119A(a)gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 I just bought a 1980 M-15 in excellent condition. But the stern cleats (2) are worthless. The design of them makes it impossible to loop a dock line around one. One side of the two ears is much too short and the dock line just slips off and is unable to grab hold of that ear or wing or whatever one calls it. I am hoping that someone other than me has had this problem and fixed it with new stern deck cleats. The problem is that I do not want to drill new holes and have had no luck finding any cleats with holes spaced at the center lines at 1 5/8? apart. That is the space between the two holes is 1 5/8? from center to center. Please let me know if you have found a cleat that fits those dimensions and works as a cleat should. Thanks very much.

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Re: M_Boats: cleats
by thomaspbuzzi 12 Jul '18

12 Jul '18

Use backing plates on all deck cleats. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message --------From: John Schinnerer <john(a)eco-living.net> Date: 7/11/18 8:07 PM (GMT-06:00) To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: cleats I hear ya, and I agree I wouldn't anchor on one or use it for my primary bow/anchor/mooring cleat. My M17 has a stainless Herreshoff style bow cleat. I have thought about adding one each side and I would use the same type there. But for dock line cleats at the stern they are solid enough. I've seen them on enough similar size production boats anyhow. "Plastic" has a bad rap from olden days, but modern nylon cleats and other nylon fittings are really very rugged, proven for decades now. I had an Ensenada 20 with similar displacement and way more windage than my M17...the stern cleats were these 5" nylon ones and the only worry I ever had was that they were also too small for typical dock lines, they shoulda been 6"! Mainly I mention these because they will fit his existing holes, no need to fill & drill. If price & fit is not priority then go for aluminum for sure. cheers, John On 07/11/2018 05:46 PM, Dave Scobie wrote: > John: > > I'd be nervous using anything plastic for such an important boat part. > > My M17 has three cleats at the bow. A prior owner added them and they are > reinforced plastic and I don't use them for anchoring or docking. > > > :: Dave Scobie > :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com > > On Wed, Jul 11, 2018, 5:40 PM John Schinnerer <john(a)eco-living.net> wrote: > >> FWIW the Sea-Dog nylon regular and heavy duty style cleats in that size >> range (6.5" and 6.25" respectively) are both within 1/16" of your >> existing hole centers (regular is 1/16" wider, heavy duty is 1/16" >> narrower). You would be able to cheat one hole sideways a tiny bit and >> not have to drill any all-new holes. >> >> Regular, w/dimension drawing: >> http://www.duckworksbbs.com/product-p/sd-043030-parent.htm >> >> Heavy duty, w/dimension drawing: >> http://www.duckworksbbs.com/product-p/sd-043340-parent.htm >> >> cheers, >> John >> >> On 07/11/2018 04:56 PM, Dave Scobie wrote: >>> Good replacement, though the holes don't line up, are 'Schaefer 6" >> Standard >>> Open-Base Cleat for 5/8" Line' in black anodizing. >>> >>> >>> :: Dave Scobie >>> :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com >>> >>> On Wed, Jul 11, 2018, 4:50 PM Doug <doug9326(a)gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>>> Those are like mine and I don't like them. Looking for good substitute >>>> but not those shiny chrome things. >>>> >>>> ⁣Sent from BlueMail >>>> >>>> On Jul 11, 2018, 2:40 PM, at 2:40 PM, Dave Scobie < >> scoobscobie(a)gmail.com> >>>> wrote: >>>>> Attached are photos of the cleats in my '83 M17. One phort shows cleat >>>>> used on bow and stern and the second are on theadt for the harlyards >>>>> (the >>>>> mast cleats are jam type). These Jerry's design. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> :: Dave Scobie >>>>> :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com >>>>> >>>>> On Wed, Jul 11, 2018, 1:22 PM John Schinnerer <john(a)eco-living.net> >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> FWIW the presumably OEM cleats on my '74 M17 are just about too small >>>>>> for the 3/8" diameter of pre-made dock lines. >>>>>> >>>>>> To get the loop through the center is a bit of effort to start with, >>>>> and >>>>>> then after looping over the cleat there's scarce room left for a >>>>> second >>>>>> line to fit well (like a spring line, etc., or even a bungee cord >>>>> hook). >>>>>> >>>>>> I thought about changing cleats, but they're otherwise very nice >>>>>> aluminum cleats and I also want to minimize holes to fill. >>>>>> >>>>>> So for now I'm "fixing" the problem by making myself some dock lines >>>>>> from 5/16" three-strand (because I can easily splice the loops myself >>>>>> compared to double-braid). >>>>>> >>>>>> Maybe Jerry can explain the how-to for those custom cleats? Makes me >>>>>> curious... >>>>>> >>>>>> cheers, >>>>>> John >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> On 07/11/2018 01:04 PM, Dave Scobie wrote: >>>>>>> Doug. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> How big are the lines? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> That cleat is custom, meaning Jerry designed it. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> :: Dave Scobie >>>>>>> :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Wed, Jul 11, 2018, 12:53 PM doug <doug9326(a)gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I just bought a 1980 M-15 in excellent condition. But the stern >>>>> cleats >>>>>>>> (2) are worthless. The design of them makes it impossible to loop >>>>> a >>>>>> dock >>>>>>>> line around one. One side of the two ears is much too short and >>>>> the >>>>>> dock >>>>>>>> line just slips off and is unable to grab hold of that ear or wing >>>>> or >>>>>>>> whatever one calls it. >>>>>>>> I am hoping that someone other than me has had this problem and >>>>> fixed it >>>>>>>> with new stern deck cleats. The problem is that I do not want to >>>>> drill >>>>>> new >>>>>>>> holes and have had no luck finding any cleats with holes spaced at >>>>> the >>>>>>>> center lines at 1 5/8” apart. That is the space between the two >>>>> holes >>>>>> is 1 >>>>>>>> 5/8” from center to center. Please let me know if you have found >>>>> a >>>>>> cleat >>>>>>>> that fits those dimensions and works as a cleat should. Thanks >>>>> very >>>>>> much. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design >>>>>> -------------------------------------------- >>>>>> - Eco-Living - >>>>>> Whole Systems Design Services >>>>>> People - Place - Learning - Integration >>>>>> john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 >>>>>> http://eco-living.net >>>>>> http://sociocracyconsulting.com >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> -- >> John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design >> -------------------------------------------- >> - Eco-Living - >> Whole Systems Design Services >> People - Place - Learning - Integration >> john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 >> http://eco-living.net >> http://sociocracyconsulting.com >> >> -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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cleats
by doug 12 Jul '18

12 Jul '18

I just bought a 1980 M-15 in excellent condition. But the stern cleats (2) are worthless. The design of them makes it impossible to loop a dock line around one. One side of the two ears is much too short and the dock line just slips off and is unable to grab hold of that ear or wing or whatever one calls it. I am hoping that someone other than me has had this problem and fixed it with new stern deck cleats. The problem is that I do not want to drill new holes and have had no luck finding any cleats with holes spaced at the center lines at 1 5/8” apart. That is the space between the two holes is 1 5/8” from center to center. Please let me know if you have found a cleat that fits those dimensions and works as a cleat should. Thanks very much.

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