April 2015 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom
by David Grah 13 Apr '15

13 Apr '15

I'm planning to refinish the bottom of my Montgomery 15 soon and have no experience doing such a thing. I wondered if the group had any comments or suggestions on my planned approach. The boat has several coats of blue ablative bottom paint on it now. They look bad. They are faded and the upper edge of the bottom pain doesn't follow the waterline very well on the starboard side.The boat probably won't be in the water for more than a week at a time for as long as I own it and is usually in fresh water when it is in the water. The hull is white with a blue stripe at the top. I plan to mount 4 - 4 inch by 4 inch posts, 8 foot long, in my garage. The bottoms of the posts will rest on the garage slab and the tops will be bolted or screwed to the joists in the garage. I will brace the joists with diagonal 2 inch by 4 inch to the garage walls (these 2 by 4's are along the bottom of the joists to the plate at the top of the wall). The posts will support the boat and the joists will keep the posts vertical. If things go right there will be very little load on the joists. I'll nail 3/4 inch plywood squares to the tops of the posts and cut groves in the edges to run 1/8 inch cables. I'll move the boat on the trailer into the garage and jack the trailer up a few inches and put it on blocks. I will attach 1/8 inch cables to the back unused holes where the shrouds attach at the edge of the boat and to the cleats on either side at the stern of the boat and loop the cables over the tops of the posts and clamp them.Then I would lower and remove the trailer. When working on the boat, I would place "kickers" under the lip at the hull to deck joint on the side I am working on to lessen the changes that the boat would roll toward me if it came down for some reason. I would also put blocks under the keel. I would use Citristrip stripping gel to remove most of the bottom paint. I have tested it after it was recommended in this group and found it works well. Depending how hard I scrape it can take off some of the gel coat under the bottom paint as well. I'd wipe the bottom with paint thinner and sand it with 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the remaining blue bottom paint residue. I'd wipe it down with acetone and then sand again with 220 grit sandpaper, probably wet, and wipe with acetone again. I think I will be left with white gel coat over the bottom stained slightly blue. I'd brush on two coats of off-white Interlux Brightside one-part paint up to about 1/4 inch above the top of the old bottom paint and then add a two coat red stripe about 4 inches wide to cover the uneven top of the current bottom paint on the starboard side. I figure the new Interlux won't match the gelcoat so need something to cover this transition. The edge of where the current bottom paint is would always be within the red strip by at least an inch. I'd put the trailer back under the boat and jack it up to take the weight of the posts and the cables, then lower the trailer and take the boat out of the garage and hopefully be done. Does this seem workable? Anything I should plan to do differently? Thanks! David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky

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Looking for M15 345
by Tom Smith 13 Apr '15

13 Apr '15

Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. Named Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? Probably mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom

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Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom
by David Grah 13 Apr '15

13 Apr '15

Thanks for the response. I saw that Brightside finish is not marketed for below the waterline but also wonder if boats that are used the way I use our boat requires below-the-water-line paint. For instance, I have the impression that the boat was made with the same finish above and below waterline but I could be wrong about that. I suppose I am mostly wondering if anyone has any experience putting that Brightside paint on the bottom of a boat that is used like ours. Message: 10 Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 15:53:26 +0000 (UTC) From: swwheatley(a)comcast.net To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom Message-ID: <141169220.4321704.1428940406126.JavaMail.zimbra(a)comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Interlux Brightside is not marketed as a below the waterline paint. If you're sure you do not want any antifouling protection, you might want to consider Interlux VC Epoxy instead.

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Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom
by David Grah 13 Apr '15

13 Apr '15

Thanks Dave. I always appreciate your posts and responses. I think I am getting "pretty much" all of the old paint off. What is left on the gel coat after the stripper has a light blue mottled pattern. That essentially goes away with moderate sanding. Although I am sure there are plenty of old anti-fouling paint molecules hanging around, my sense is they are few and far between. Unless those molecules act like a wax or something, I wouldn't think there would be an issue applying a non-anti-fouling paint where anti-fouling paint used to be, but that is certainly why I am asking the question. There must be some point where new non-anti-fouling finish can be applied. Would that require removing all the gel coat too? I'll look into that product you mention. Does it make sense that anti-fouling paint will always stick to anti-fouling paint even if completely different compositions? If there isn't concern for matching anti-fouling paints I wonder how strictly the "only anti-fouling after anti-fouling paint" applies. Don't take any of this as doubting your advice, I am just trying to understand better! Message: 13 Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 10:25:32 -0600 From: Dave Scobie <scoobscobie(a)gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom Message-ID: <CAGjBOA6DrC6xaS-V=xt9eezJfjeODzRLY150S8GPH7NzFC3-hw(a)mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Once boat bottom painted the boat is 'committed' to the treatment. Unless you know for sure what is currently on the boat you need to get it all off to avoid incompatible paint combinations. Besides barrier coating you can paint with a durable antifouling paint for trailering such as VC17 (which is good in most lakes ... But not be n Cali.) ViViD is a good hard ablative and has many color choices including mixing colors to make a custom match to your boat. :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA :: Former M15 owner

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Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom
by David Grah 13 Apr '15

13 Apr '15

Thanks, Robert. I appreciate hearing about your experience. I have tested the Cirtri-Strip on the bottom enough to have an idea how bad it will be to remove it from all over the bottom. I have also done some subsequent sanding to check out that process. I think you are right that it will be bad and will be bad for all the reasons you mention but, based on what I have seen, not bad enough to keep me from giving it a try. Having it done professionally is not a practical option because there is no-one within a 4 hours drive that could work on the boat and dealing with that would be its own logistical nightmare. Based on the type of use I plan with the boat, putting anti-fouling back on doesn't seem to have an advantage. Message: 8 Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 00:28:36 -0400 From: Robert Hall <bert.hall(a)bell.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom Message-ID: <BLU437-SMTP90DBD2F73DD4F1B8121C198AE70(a)phx.gbl> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=original Hi, The best advice I can offer is to have the M15 bottom stripped professionally. Two years past my hull was in similar state to yours , the method you are proposing to get access to the bottom is similar to the one I dreamed up and I also used a stripper like that you describe.The job was a night mare mostly due to the lap strake configuration of the hull. I spent the best part of two weeks just removing the blue bottom coat and disposing of the detritus. Next came hours of sanding followed by two coats of resin and then two coats of copper based anti fouling. I swore never to repeat that undertaking. If you go ahead, you will need approximately 5 quarts of the citrus product,a variety of scraping tools, a good tarp to put under the hull,lots of disposable clothing ,mask ,goggles and lots of rags .Material costs should run between 3 &4 hundred $ Best of British Luck and the patience of Job.. RTH.

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Re: M_Boats: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 146, Issue 7
by Antonio Martinez 13 Apr '15

13 Apr '15

I'd love to hear critique of proposed method of hoisting boat. At some point I'll need to take a look at my bottom... Somehow hanging boat from four points seems sketchy, but I keep reminding myself that those points are pretty bomber. They are, right...? On Mon, Apr 13, 2015 at 1:39 PM, < montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com> wrote: > Send montgomery_boats mailing list submissions to > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > > https://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > montgomery_boats-owner(a)mailman.xmission.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of montgomery_boats digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale (David Grah) > 2. Re: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale (stevetrapp) > 3. Looking for M15 345 (Tom Smith) > 4. Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom (David Grah) > 5. Re: Looking for M15 345 (Thomas Buzzi) > 6. Re: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom (Thomas Buzzi) > 7. Re: Looking for M15 345 (peter kunst) > 8. Re: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom (Robert Hall) > 9. Re: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale (Chris Smith) > 10. Re: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom (swwheatley(a)comcast.net) > 11. Re: Looking for M15 345 (Tom Smith) > 12. Re: Looking for M15 345 (Tom Smith) > 13. Re: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom (Dave Scobie) > 14. Re: Looking for M15 345 (stevetrapp) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 00:20:43 +0000 (UTC) > From: David Grah <d_b_grah(a)yahoo.com> > To: For and About Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale > Message-ID: > <684751628.1420791.1428884443148.JavaMail.yahoo(a)mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > I wanted a longer tiller for my Montgomery 15 so bought a nice laminated > curved one from J O Woodworks. I wasn't sure if that bought one was long > enough so I also made an even longer simple straight one out of oak to try > out. > The tiller I made makes it easier to sit forward and doesn't get in the > way too much, even with 5 people in the cockpit (with some water coming up > through the centerboard drain hole). As a result, I think I will try to > find a good home for the nice J O Woodworks tiller. I think I paid around > $90. Is anyone interested? > > The tiller that came with the boat when I bought it used (it's a 1986 > model) is 34 and 7/8 inches long from end to end. The J O Woodworks one is > 40 and 5/8 inches long, and the one I made is 43 and 7/8 inches. > > > David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 17:53:36 -0700 > From: "stevetrapp" <stevetrapp(a)q.com> > To: "David Grah" <d_b_grah(a)yahoo.com>, "For and about Montgomery > Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale > Message-ID: <4F33556D23DE497595E61FEC50B6296A@STEVEEW> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; > reply-type=original > > Are you selling only the tiller or the whole rudder too? Do you have a > photo? Any idea how much it might cost to ship to Olympia, Washington? > Steve > M-15 # 335 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "David Grah via montgomery_boats" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > To: "For and About Montgomery Sailboats" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 5:20 PM > Subject: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale > > > >I wanted a longer tiller for my Montgomery 15 so bought a nice laminated > >curved one from J O Woodworks. I wasn't sure if that bought one was long > >enough so I also made an even longer simple straight one out of oak to try > >out. > > The tiller I made makes it easier to sit forward and doesn't get in the > > way too much, even with 5 people in the cockpit (with some water coming > up > > through the centerboard drain hole). As a result, I think I will try to > > find a good home for the nice J O Woodworks tiller. I think I paid around > > $90. Is anyone interested? > > > > The tiller that came with the boat when I bought it used (it's a 1986 > > model) is 34 and 7/8 inches long from end to end. The J O Woodworks one > is > > 40 and 5/8 inches long, and the one I made is 43 and 7/8 inches. > > > > > > David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky > > > > > > ----- > > No virus found in this message. > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > Version: 2014.0.4800 / Virus Database: 4311/9521 - Release Date: 04/12/15 > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 17:54:43 -0700 > From: Tom Smith <openboatt(a)gmail.com> > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 > Message-ID: > < > CA+3pONKzuGsFABgW7n+eYbeSnZ7sBp+Lr2mx0f9h79w4RPw-XA(a)mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. Named > Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? Probably > mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 01:07:55 +0000 (UTC) > From: David Grah <d_b_grah(a)yahoo.com> > To: For and About Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom > Message-ID: > <1553399902.1441327.1428887275386.JavaMail.yahoo(a)mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > I'm planning to refinish the bottom of my Montgomery 15 soon and have no > experience doing such a thing. I wondered if the group had any comments or > suggestions on my planned approach. > The boat has several coats of blue ablative bottom paint on it now. They > look bad. They are faded and the upper edge of the bottom pain doesn't > follow the waterline very well on the starboard side.The boat probably > won't be in the water for more than a week at a time for as long as I own > it and is usually in fresh water when it is in the water. The hull is white > with a blue stripe at the top. > > I plan to mount 4 - 4 inch by 4 inch posts, 8 foot long, in my garage. The > bottoms of the posts will rest on the garage slab and the tops will be > bolted or screwed to the joists in the garage. I will brace the joists with > diagonal 2 inch by 4 inch to the garage walls (these 2 by 4's are along the > bottom of the joists to the plate at the top of the wall). The posts will > support the boat and the joists will keep the posts vertical. If things go > right there will be very little load on the joists. > > I'll nail 3/4 inch plywood squares to the tops of the posts and cut groves > in the edges to run 1/8 inch cables. I'll move the boat on the trailer into > the garage and jack the trailer up a few inches and put it on blocks. I > will attach 1/8 inch cables to the back unused holes where the shrouds > attach at the edge of the boat and to the cleats on either side at the > stern of the boat and loop the cables over the tops of the posts and clamp > them.Then I would lower and remove the trailer. > When working on the boat, I would place "kickers" under the lip at the > hull to deck joint on the side I am working on to lessen the changes that > the boat would roll toward me if it came down for some reason. I would also > put blocks under the keel. > I would use Citristrip stripping gel to remove most of the bottom paint. I > have tested it after it was recommended in this group and found it works > well. Depending how hard I scrape it can take off some of the gel coat > under the bottom paint as well. I'd wipe the bottom with paint thinner and > sand it with 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the remaining blue bottom > paint residue. I'd wipe it down with acetone and then sand again with 220 > grit sandpaper, probably wet, and wipe with acetone again. I think I will > be left with white gel coat over the bottom stained slightly blue. > I'd brush on two coats of off-white Interlux Brightside one-part paint up > to about 1/4 inch above the top of the old bottom paint and then add a two > coat red stripe about 4 inches wide to cover the uneven top of the current > bottom paint on the starboard side. I figure the new Interlux won't match > the gelcoat so need something to cover this transition. The edge of where > the current bottom paint is would always be within the red strip by at > least an inch. > I'd put the trailer back under the boat and jack it up to take the weight > of the posts and the cables, then lower the trailer and take the boat out > of the garage and hopefully be done. > Does this seem workable? Anything I should plan to do differently? Thanks! > > David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 22:01:57 -0500 > From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 > Message-ID: > < > CA+TbpAWvMtdf_WsuShG4cqwK3MtGavsp4LVoPC0QrOzTut43Bw(a)mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Hey Tom, > I am curious. What is so special about this particular boat? Is it an M17? > Tom B > > On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 7:54 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. Named > > Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? Probably > > mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 22:10:06 -0500 > From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> > To: David Grah <d_b_grah(a)yahoo.com>, For and about Montgomery > Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom > Message-ID: > <CA+TbpAXJh=UCiukYYgpw5Qq4g+8NR13CgRgqsL6vdpykjjT= > ww(a)mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > David, > I used that Citrustrip and found it is sensitive to the humidity. Dry days > require about 25-30 minutes to soften two layers of bottom paint. Humid > days can take as long as 40 minutes. If you time it right by testing a > small section the paint will skive off like butter with a blunt putty knife > with the blade edges rounded to match the radius of the corners of the > planks in the hull. I was also able to use a plastic putty knife on most of > it so damaging the gelcoat was not an issue. If you wait too long the stuff > gets hard again. When I applied the stripper I loaded the brush and made > one pass in one direction with each 3 inch brush load. That seemed to work > the best. If you try to stretch out the coverage the stuff will not work > nearly as well. Buy at least a gallon to get yourself started on the 15, it > will be cheaper than buying three quarts, one at a time. > Tom B > > On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 8:07 PM, David Grah via montgomery_boats < > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> wrote: > > > I'm planning to refinish the bottom of my Montgomery 15 soon and have no > > experience doing such a thing. I wondered if the group had any comments > or > > suggestions on my planned approach. > > The boat has several coats of blue ablative bottom paint on it now. They > > look bad. They are faded and the upper edge of the bottom pain doesn't > > follow the waterline very well on the starboard side.The boat probably > > won't be in the water for more than a week at a time for as long as I own > > it and is usually in fresh water when it is in the water. The hull is > white > > with a blue stripe at the top. > > > > I plan to mount 4 - 4 inch by 4 inch posts, 8 foot long, in my garage. > The > > bottoms of the posts will rest on the garage slab and the tops will be > > bolted or screwed to the joists in the garage. I will brace the joists > with > > diagonal 2 inch by 4 inch to the garage walls (these 2 by 4's are along > the > > bottom of the joists to the plate at the top of the wall). The posts will > > support the boat and the joists will keep the posts vertical. If things > go > > right there will be very little load on the joists. > > > > I'll nail 3/4 inch plywood squares to the tops of the posts and cut > groves > > in the edges to run 1/8 inch cables. I'll move the boat on the trailer > into > > the garage and jack the trailer up a few inches and put it on blocks. I > > will attach 1/8 inch cables to the back unused holes where the shrouds > > attach at the edge of the boat and to the cleats on either side at the > > stern of the boat and loop the cables over the tops of the posts and > clamp > > them.Then I would lower and remove the trailer. > > When working on the boat, I would place "kickers" under the lip at the > > hull to deck joint on the side I am working on to lessen the changes that > > the boat would roll toward me if it came down for some reason. I would > also > > put blocks under the keel. > > I would use Citristrip stripping gel to remove most of the bottom paint. > I > > have tested it after it was recommended in this group and found it works > > well. Depending how hard I scrape it can take off some of the gel coat > > under the bottom paint as well. I'd wipe the bottom with paint thinner > and > > sand it with 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the remaining blue > bottom > > paint residue. I'd wipe it down with acetone and then sand again with 220 > > grit sandpaper, probably wet, and wipe with acetone again. I think I will > > be left with white gel coat over the bottom stained slightly blue. > > I'd brush on two coats of off-white Interlux Brightside one-part paint up > > to about 1/4 inch above the top of the old bottom paint and then add a > two > > coat red stripe about 4 inches wide to cover the uneven top of the > current > > bottom paint on the starboard side. I figure the new Interlux won't match > > the gelcoat so need something to cover this transition. The edge of where > > the current bottom paint is would always be within the red strip by at > > least an inch. > > I'd put the trailer back under the boat and jack it up to take the weight > > of the posts and the cables, then lower the trailer and take the boat out > > of the garage and hopefully be done. > > Does this seem workable? Anything I should plan to do differently? > Thanks! > > > > David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 03:22:04 +0000 > From: peter kunst <peterkunstt(a)hotmail.com> > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 > Message-ID: <BLU175-W456645DC4CF69764F00BDABAE70(a)phx.gbl> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Hey Tom, If I am not mistaken Chukar is a M-15 from Sandpoint Id, That > was photographed on lake Pend Oreille Id, and used on the Motgomery 15 > sales brochure > Best Regards,Pete > > > Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 22:01:57 -0500 > > From: thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com > > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 > > > Hey Tom, > > I am curious. What is so special about this particular boat? Is it an > M17? > > Tom B > > > > On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 7:54 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. Named > > > Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? Probably > > > mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 00:28:36 -0400 > From: Robert Hall <bert.hall(a)bell.net> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom > Message-ID: <BLU437-SMTP90DBD2F73DD4F1B8121C198AE70(a)phx.gbl> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; > reply-type=original > > Hi, The best advice I can offer is to have the M15 bottom stripped > professionally. Two years past my hull was in similar state to yours , the > method you are proposing to get access to the bottom is similar to the one > I > dreamed up and I also used a stripper like that you describe.The job was a > night mare mostly due to the lap strake configuration of the hull. I spent > the best part of two weeks just removing the blue bottom coat and disposing > of the detritus. Next came hours of sanding followed by two coats of resin > and then two coats of copper based anti fouling. I swore never to repeat > that undertaking. If you go ahead, you will need approximately 5 quarts of > the citrus product,a variety of scraping tools, a good tarp to put under > the > hull,lots of disposable clothing ,mask ,goggles and lots of rags .Material > costs should run between 3 &4 hundred $ Best of British Luck and the > patience of Job.. RTH. > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Thomas Buzzi > Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 11:10 PM > To: David Grah ; For and about Montgomery Sailboats > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom > > David, > I used that Citrustrip and found it is sensitive to the humidity. Dry days > require about 25-30 minutes to soften two layers of bottom paint. Humid > days can take as long as 40 minutes. If you time it right by testing a > small section the paint will skive off like butter with a blunt putty knife > with the blade edges rounded to match the radius of the corners of the > planks in the hull. I was also able to use a plastic putty knife on most of > it so damaging the gelcoat was not an issue. If you wait too long the stuff > gets hard again. When I applied the stripper I loaded the brush and made > one pass in one direction with each 3 inch brush load. That seemed to work > the best. If you try to stretch out the coverage the stuff will not work > nearly as well. Buy at least a gallon to get yourself started on the 15, it > will be cheaper than buying three quarts, one at a time. > Tom B > > On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 8:07 PM, David Grah via montgomery_boats < > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> wrote: > > > I'm planning to refinish the bottom of my Montgomery 15 soon and have no > > experience doing such a thing. I wondered if the group had any comments > or > > suggestions on my planned approach. > > The boat has several coats of blue ablative bottom paint on it now. They > > look bad. They are faded and the upper edge of the bottom pain doesn't > > follow the waterline very well on the starboard side.The boat probably > > won't be in the water for more than a week at a time for as long as I own > > it and is usually in fresh water when it is in the water. The hull is > > white > > with a blue stripe at the top. > > > > I plan to mount 4 - 4 inch by 4 inch posts, 8 foot long, in my garage. > The > > bottoms of the posts will rest on the garage slab and the tops will be > > bolted or screwed to the joists in the garage. I will brace the joists > > with > > diagonal 2 inch by 4 inch to the garage walls (these 2 by 4's are along > > the > > bottom of the joists to the plate at the top of the wall). The posts will > > support the boat and the joists will keep the posts vertical. If things > go > > right there will be very little load on the joists. > > > > I'll nail 3/4 inch plywood squares to the tops of the posts and cut > groves > > in the edges to run 1/8 inch cables. I'll move the boat on the trailer > > into > > the garage and jack the trailer up a few inches and put it on blocks. I > > will attach 1/8 inch cables to the back unused holes where the shrouds > > attach at the edge of the boat and to the cleats on either side at the > > stern of the boat and loop the cables over the tops of the posts and > clamp > > them.Then I would lower and remove the trailer. > > When working on the boat, I would place "kickers" under the lip at the > > hull to deck joint on the side I am working on to lessen the changes that > > the boat would roll toward me if it came down for some reason. I would > > also > > put blocks under the keel. > > I would use Citristrip stripping gel to remove most of the bottom paint. > I > > have tested it after it was recommended in this group and found it works > > well. Depending how hard I scrape it can take off some of the gel coat > > under the bottom paint as well. I'd wipe the bottom with paint thinner > and > > sand it with 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the remaining blue > bottom > > paint residue. I'd wipe it down with acetone and then sand again with 220 > > grit sandpaper, probably wet, and wipe with acetone again. I think I will > > be left with white gel coat over the bottom stained slightly blue. > > I'd brush on two coats of off-white Interlux Brightside one-part paint up > > to about 1/4 inch above the top of the old bottom paint and then add a > two > > coat red stripe about 4 inches wide to cover the uneven top of the > current > > bottom paint on the starboard side. I figure the new Interlux won't match > > the gelcoat so need something to cover this transition. The edge of where > > the current bottom paint is would always be within the red strip by at > > least an inch. > > I'd put the trailer back under the boat and jack it up to take the weight > > of the posts and the cables, then lower the trailer and take the boat out > > of the garage and hopefully be done. > > Does this seem workable? Anything I should plan to do differently? > Thanks! > > > > David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 08:53:43 -0500 > From: Chris Smith <chris.r.smith(a)gmail.com> > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale > Message-ID: > < > CAPkEqajZxME8tf7ccq3aSiOqnjAtAkMYaZkpJ16VgubmZzgezw(a)mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > Is the original one in good condition? I may be interested in that one. > How much? > > Thanks, > Chris > > On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 7:53 PM, stevetrapp <stevetrapp(a)q.com> wrote: > > > Are you selling only the tiller or the whole rudder too? Do you have > a > > photo? Any idea how much it might cost to ship to Olympia, Washington? > > Steve > > M-15 # 335 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Grah via montgomery_boats" < > > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > > To: "For and About Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman. > > xmission.com> > > Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 5:20 PM > > Subject: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale > > > > > > I wanted a longer tiller for my Montgomery 15 so bought a nice laminated > >> curved one from J O Woodworks. I wasn't sure if that bought one was long > >> enough so I also made an even longer simple straight one out of oak to > try > >> out. > >> The tiller I made makes it easier to sit forward and doesn't get in the > >> way too much, even with 5 people in the cockpit (with some water coming > up > >> through the centerboard drain hole). As a result, I think I will try to > >> find a good home for the nice J O Woodworks tiller. I think I paid > around > >> $90. Is anyone interested? > >> > >> The tiller that came with the boat when I bought it used (it's a 1986 > >> model) is 34 and 7/8 inches long from end to end. The J O Woodworks one > is > >> 40 and 5/8 inches long, and the one I made is 43 and 7/8 inches. > >> > >> > >> David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky > >> > >> > >> ----- > >> No virus found in this message. > >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > >> Version: 2014.0.4800 / Virus Database: 4311/9521 - Release Date: > 04/12/15 > >> > >> > > > > > > > -- > Chris > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 15:53:26 +0000 (UTC) > From: swwheatley(a)comcast.net > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom > Message-ID: > <141169220.4321704.1428940406126.JavaMail.zimbra(a)comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Interlux Brightside is not marketed as a below the waterline paint. If > you're sure you do not want any antifouling protection, you might want to > consider Interlux VC Epoxy instead. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Robert Hall" <bert.hall(a)bell.net> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 12:28:36 AM > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom > > Hi, The best advice I can offer is to have the M15 bottom stripped > professionally. Two years past my hull was in similar state to yours , the > method you are proposing to get access to the bottom is similar to the one > I > dreamed up and I also used a stripper like that you describe.The job was a > night mare mostly due to the lap strake configuration of the hull. I spent > the best part of two weeks just removing the blue bottom coat and disposing > of the detritus. Next came hours of sanding followed by two coats of resin > and then two coats of copper based anti fouling. I swore never to repeat > that undertaking. If you go ahead, you will need approximately 5 quarts of > the citrus product,a variety of scraping tools, a good tarp to put under > the > hull,lots of disposable clothing ,mask ,goggles and lots of rags .Material > costs should run between 3 &4 hundred $ Best of British Luck and the > patience of Job.. RTH. > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Thomas Buzzi > Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 11:10 PM > To: David Grah ; For and about Montgomery Sailboats > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom > > David, > I used that Citrustrip and found it is sensitive to the humidity. Dry days > require about 25-30 minutes to soften two layers of bottom paint. Humid > days can take as long as 40 minutes. If you time it right by testing a > small section the paint will skive off like butter with a blunt putty knife > with the blade edges rounded to match the radius of the corners of the > planks in the hull. I was also able to use a plastic putty knife on most of > it so damaging the gelcoat was not an issue. If you wait too long the stuff > gets hard again. When I applied the stripper I loaded the brush and made > one pass in one direction with each 3 inch brush load. That seemed to work > the best. If you try to stretch out the coverage the stuff will not work > nearly as well. Buy at least a gallon to get yourself started on the 15, it > will be cheaper than buying three quarts, one at a time. > Tom B > > On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 8:07 PM, David Grah via montgomery_boats < > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> wrote: > > > I'm planning to refinish the bottom of my Montgomery 15 soon and have no > > experience doing such a thing. I wondered if the group had any comments > or > > suggestions on my planned approach. > > The boat has several coats of blue ablative bottom paint on it now. They > > look bad. They are faded and the upper edge of the bottom pain doesn't > > follow the waterline very well on the starboard side.The boat probably > > won't be in the water for more than a week at a time for as long as I own > > it and is usually in fresh water when it is in the water. The hull is > > white > > with a blue stripe at the top. > > > > I plan to mount 4 - 4 inch by 4 inch posts, 8 foot long, in my garage. > The > > bottoms of the posts will rest on the garage slab and the tops will be > > bolted or screwed to the joists in the garage. I will brace the joists > > with > > diagonal 2 inch by 4 inch to the garage walls (these 2 by 4's are along > > the > > bottom of the joists to the plate at the top of the wall). The posts will > > support the boat and the joists will keep the posts vertical. If things > go > > right there will be very little load on the joists. > > > > I'll nail 3/4 inch plywood squares to the tops of the posts and cut > groves > > in the edges to run 1/8 inch cables. I'll move the boat on the trailer > > into > > the garage and jack the trailer up a few inches and put it on blocks. I > > will attach 1/8 inch cables to the back unused holes where the shrouds > > attach at the edge of the boat and to the cleats on either side at the > > stern of the boat and loop the cables over the tops of the posts and > clamp > > them.Then I would lower and remove the trailer. > > When working on the boat, I would place "kickers" under the lip at the > > hull to deck joint on the side I am working on to lessen the changes that > > the boat would roll toward me if it came down for some reason. I would > > also > > put blocks under the keel. > > I would use Citristrip stripping gel to remove most of the bottom paint. > I > > have tested it after it was recommended in this group and found it works > > well. Depending how hard I scrape it can take off some of the gel coat > > under the bottom paint as well. I'd wipe the bottom with paint thinner > and > > sand it with 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the remaining blue > bottom > > paint residue. I'd wipe it down with acetone and then sand again with 220 > > grit sandpaper, probably wet, and wipe with acetone again. I think I will > > be left with white gel coat over the bottom stained slightly blue. > > I'd brush on two coats of off-white Interlux Brightside one-part paint up > > to about 1/4 inch above the top of the old bottom paint and then add a > two > > coat red stripe about 4 inches wide to cover the uneven top of the > current > > bottom paint on the starboard side. I figure the new Interlux won't match > > the gelcoat so need something to cover this transition. The edge of where > > the current bottom paint is would always be within the red strip by at > > least an inch. > > I'd put the trailer back under the boat and jack it up to take the weight > > of the posts and the cables, then lower the trailer and take the boat out > > of the garage and hopefully be done. > > Does this seem workable? Anything I should plan to do differently? > Thanks! > > > > David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 09:03:59 -0700 > From: Tom Smith <openboatt(a)gmail.com> > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 > Message-ID: > <CA+3pONL_4bVrQzquWGuUHTBz7= > X0XOo4VtyAZjd_Nsh27OQVLQ(a)mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > No Tom. It's a 1986 M15. t > > On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 8:01 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> > wrote: > > > Hey Tom, > > I am curious. What is so special about this particular boat? Is it an > M17? > > Tom B > > > > On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 7:54 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. Named > > > Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? Probably > > > mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 09:09:55 -0700 > From: Tom Smith <openboatt(a)gmail.com> > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 > Message-ID: > <CA+3pON+iPhgmvbn4n4rB4gZ6AfAaD9oqf3+F6f= > v_Xkg7mDFZQ(a)mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Yes, Jane and I sailed *Chukar* out of Sandpoint at the time Bob created > that brochure. > > For what it's worth, this boat placed 1st in the 2000 Cruiser Challenge in > Alameda, CA. > > We currently sail the M17 *dharma bum*, but we're thinking of doing some > traveling, and an M15 (imho) is tons easier to tow, launch, and retrieve, > thus the search. > > The boat was sold to a woman named Beth Davis in the mid-90s. It is my > understanding she eventually donated the boat to a charity > auction...probably in the late 90s. > > Any info on M15 345 would greatly appreciated. t > > On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 8:22 PM, peter kunst <peterkunstt(a)hotmail.com> > wrote: > > > Hey Tom, If I am not mistaken Chukar is a M-15 from Sandpoint Id, That > > was photographed on lake Pend Oreille Id, and used on the Motgomery 15 > > sales brochure > > Best Regards,Pete > > > > > Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 22:01:57 -0500 > > > From: thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com > > > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > > > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 > > > > > Hey Tom, > > > I am curious. What is so special about this particular boat? Is it an > > M17? > > > Tom B > > > > > > On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 7:54 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt(a)gmail.com> > wrote: > > > > > > > Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. > Named > > > > Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? > Probably > > > > mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 10:25:32 -0600 > From: Dave Scobie <scoobscobie(a)gmail.com> > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom > Message-ID: > <CAGjBOA6DrC6xaS-V= > xt9eezJfjeODzRLY150S8GPH7NzFC3-hw(a)mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Once boat bottom painted the boat is 'committed' to the treatment. > > Unless you know for sure what is currently on the boat you need to get it > all off to avoid incompatible paint combinations. > > Besides barrier coating you can paint with a durable antifouling paint for > trailering such as VC17 (which is good in most lakes ... But not be n > Cali.) > > ViViD is a good hard ablative and has many color choices including mixing > colors to make a custom match to your boat. > > :: Dave Scobie > :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA > :: Former M15 owner > On Apr 13, 2015 9:53 AM, <swwheatley(a)comcast.net> wrote: > > > Interlux Brightside is not marketed as a below the waterline paint. If > > you're sure you do not want any antifouling protection, you might want to > > consider Interlux VC Epoxy instead. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "Robert Hall" <bert.hall(a)bell.net> > > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < > > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > > Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 12:28:36 AM > > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom > > > > Hi, The best advice I can offer is to have the M15 bottom stripped > > professionally. Two years past my hull was in similar state to yours , > the > > method you are proposing to get access to the bottom is similar to the > one > > I > > dreamed up and I also used a stripper like that you describe.The job was > a > > night mare mostly due to the lap strake configuration of the hull. I > spent > > the best part of two weeks just removing the blue bottom coat and > disposing > > of the detritus. Next came hours of sanding followed by two coats of > resin > > and then two coats of copper based anti fouling. I swore never to repeat > > that undertaking. If you go ahead, you will need approximately 5 quarts > of > > the citrus product,a variety of scraping tools, a good tarp to put under > > the > > hull,lots of disposable clothing ,mask ,goggles and lots of rags > .Material > > costs should run between 3 &4 hundred $ Best of British Luck and the > > patience of Job.. RTH. > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Thomas Buzzi > > Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 11:10 PM > > To: David Grah ; For and about Montgomery Sailboats > > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom > > > > David, > > I used that Citrustrip and found it is sensitive to the humidity. Dry > days > > require about 25-30 minutes to soften two layers of bottom paint. Humid > > days can take as long as 40 minutes. If you time it right by testing a > > small section the paint will skive off like butter with a blunt putty > knife > > with the blade edges rounded to match the radius of the corners of the > > planks in the hull. I was also able to use a plastic putty knife on most > of > > it so damaging the gelcoat was not an issue. If you wait too long the > stuff > > gets hard again. When I applied the stripper I loaded the brush and made > > one pass in one direction with each 3 inch brush load. That seemed to > work > > the best. If you try to stretch out the coverage the stuff will not work > > nearly as well. Buy at least a gallon to get yourself started on the 15, > it > > will be cheaper than buying three quarts, one at a time. > > Tom B > > > > On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 8:07 PM, David Grah via montgomery_boats < > > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> wrote: > > > > > I'm planning to refinish the bottom of my Montgomery 15 soon and have > no > > > experience doing such a thing. I wondered if the group had any comments > > or > > > suggestions on my planned approach. > > > The boat has several coats of blue ablative bottom paint on it now. > They > > > look bad. They are faded and the upper edge of the bottom pain doesn't > > > follow the waterline very well on the starboard side.The boat probably > > > won't be in the water for more than a week at a time for as long as I > own > > > it and is usually in fresh water when it is in the water. The hull is > > > white > > > with a blue stripe at the top. > > > > > > I plan to mount 4 - 4 inch by 4 inch posts, 8 foot long, in my garage. > > The > > > bottoms of the posts will rest on the garage slab and the tops will be > > > bolted or screwed to the joists in the garage. I will brace the joists > > > with > > > diagonal 2 inch by 4 inch to the garage walls (these 2 by 4's are along > > > the > > > bottom of the joists to the plate at the top of the wall). The posts > will > > > support the boat and the joists will keep the posts vertical. If things > > go > > > right there will be very little load on the joists. > > > > > > I'll nail 3/4 inch plywood squares to the tops of the posts and cut > > groves > > > in the edges to run 1/8 inch cables. I'll move the boat on the trailer > > > into > > > the garage and jack the trailer up a few inches and put it on blocks. I > > > will attach 1/8 inch cables to the back unused holes where the shrouds > > > attach at the edge of the boat and to the cleats on either side at the > > > stern of the boat and loop the cables over the tops of the posts and > > clamp > > > them.Then I would lower and remove the trailer. > > > When working on the boat, I would place "kickers" under the lip at the > > > hull to deck joint on the side I am working on to lessen the changes > that > > > the boat would roll toward me if it came down for some reason. I would > > > also > > > put blocks under the keel. > > > I would use Citristrip stripping gel to remove most of the bottom > paint. > > I > > > have tested it after it was recommended in this group and found it > works > > > well. Depending how hard I scrape it can take off some of the gel coat > > > under the bottom paint as well. I'd wipe the bottom with paint thinner > > and > > > sand it with 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the remaining blue > > bottom > > > paint residue. I'd wipe it down with acetone and then sand again with > 220 > > > grit sandpaper, probably wet, and wipe with acetone again. I think I > will > > > be left with white gel coat over the bottom stained slightly blue. > > > I'd brush on two coats of off-white Interlux Brightside one-part paint > up > > > to about 1/4 inch above the top of the old bottom paint and then add a > > two > > > coat red stripe about 4 inches wide to cover the uneven top of the > > current > > > bottom paint on the starboard side. I figure the new Interlux won't > match > > > the gelcoat so need something to cover this transition. The edge of > where > > > the current bottom paint is would always be within the red strip by at > > > least an inch. > > > I'd put the trailer back under the boat and jack it up to take the > weight > > > of the posts and the cables, then lower the trailer and take the boat > out > > > of the garage and hopefully be done. > > > Does this seem workable? Anything I should plan to do differently? > > Thanks! > > > > > > David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 14 > Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 10:39:15 -0700 > From: "stevetrapp" <stevetrapp(a)q.com> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 > Message-ID: <E9A41719A1AF4A58B97106EA33B764B7@STEVEEW> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Interesting that M-15 # 345 was on Lake Pend Oreille in North Idaho. I > had my M-15 # 335 on the lake during the summers of > 1989 -90, but do not remember seeing # 345 either of those seasons. > I did learn to give the U.S.N. submarine testing base and area a wide > berth, seeing a periscope pop up above the surface while under sail was an > interesting. Also lost a new 35mm camera overboard in about 800 ft deep > water. > Steve > M-15 # 335 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "peter kunst" <peterkunstt(a)hotmail.com> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 8:22 PM > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 > > > Hey Tom, If I am not mistaken Chukar is a M-15 from Sandpoint Id, That > was photographed on lake Pend Oreille Id, and used on the Motgomery 15 > sales brochure > Best Regards,Pete > > > Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 22:01:57 -0500 > > From: thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com > > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Looking for M15 345 > > > Hey Tom, > > I am curious. What is so special about this particular boat? Is it an > M17? > > Tom B > > > > On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 7:54 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. Named > > > Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? Probably > > > mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom > > > > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2014.0.4800 / Virus Database: 4311/9524 - Release Date: 04/12/15 > > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > montgomery_boats mailing list > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > https://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > > > ------------------------------ > > End of montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 146, Issue 7 > ************************************************ > -- *Antonio Martinez* *Middle River Studio* 540-248-3310 (h) 540-414-4782 (c)

2 1

North Carolina Sailing the ICW
by Michael Murphy 06 Apr '15

06 Apr '15

Sailed the Intercoastal Waterway between Sneads Ferry on the New River & Swansboro on the White Oak River this week. The ramp at Sneads Ferry is easy to launch from with a convenient prep area immediately in front of the ramp. No restrooms but there is a good fishermans cafe next door. There is a good ramp at Swansboro too. This is recreational fishing country so you want to sail during the off season & week days. The ICW is 100-200 yards wide in most areas & you can hear the ocean breakers only ¼ to 1 ½ mile away while sailing. With 3 navigable (not necessarily in a sailboat) inlets to the ocean in the 18 miles between Sneads Ferry & Swansboro you can experience 3 topographic tidal current changes along the way in addition to lunar changes twice a day. Had an adverse current for 7 miles, 3 miles of fair, then a weak foul current for 8 miles. If the predicted southerly wind had appeared it would have been a close reach most of the way. However, it was more northerly so did a *lot* of short tacking. Gave me time to enjoy the scenic marshes up close. Traversing Camp Lejeune much of the area is undeveloped excerpt for an occasional shooting range with target hulks & personnel silhouettes.

1 0

M15 Rudder Lifting Mechanism
by Howard Audsley 05 Apr '15

05 Apr '15

Does anyone have a diagram that shows the mechanics of the lifting mechanism used on the M15 rudder? It has been about 10 years since I've seen one in operation, but recall thinking it to be an engineering marvel.

8 21

Re: M_Boats: fixed gooseneck on a 1979 M17
by Dave Scobie 02 Apr '15

02 Apr '15

Henry: does the boat not have a tabernacle? or is the tabernacle on the boat damaged? -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com On Thu, Apr 2, 2015 at 10:28 AM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir(a)gmail.com> wrote: > Jerry, > On another subject, can you tell me the optimum height above the base of > the mast to mount a fixed gooseneck on a 1979 M17? Stock boom, stock mast, > OEM spec sails, main luff 19'. > I can't raise the mast to check distances/clearance until the boat is in > the water (too many overhanging tree branches in my yard) but I would like > to get the gooseneck installed before then. > Thanks! > > -- > Henry > https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir >

2 1

North Carolina Cruise Core Sound
by Michael Murphy 01 Apr '15

01 Apr '15

Core Sound is a narrow sound that runs northward from Beaufort NC to Cedar Island on the shores of the much larger Pamlico Sound. It's served by 4 public ramps & a half-dozen private ramps at CG's or old fish houses. From Core sound you can connect to Pamlico Sound, the Neuse River, Cape Lookout, & Bogue Sound. Separated from the Atlantic by low barrier islands the afternoon sea breezes are usually dependable. Completely sheltered anchorages are uncommon but it is possible to find suitable anchorages by following the local WX forecasts. Like Bogue Sound to the south, jiffy reefing is helpful because of narrow channels. If you have to reef, you'll want to do in less than 5 minutes. Otherwise its possible to drift out of the many narrow channels & passages between deeper sections of the sound. Sailboats are somewhat rare on the Sound because of water depths which make the M-15 or 17 a good boat for this area.

2 1