September 2013 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Sealants for re-bedding deck items
by Todd Bradley 18 Sep '13

18 Sep '13

Hi All - I will be re-bedding my teak handrails ect. I have been reading about various marine sealants. According to Don Casey's book, he suggests using a Polysulfide if you ever want to get the item off again. Which I may need to do someday. I know many of you use the 3M 5200 product which is a polyurethane. And according to the Don Casey book is extremely difficult to remove if you ever need to. In researching the sealants, 3M makes a 4200 that is supposed to be easier to get off if the someday comes. Has anyone used it? I hope you can let me know your experiences & recommendations. Am I over-thinking this? Thanks! Todd M-23 #86

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Re: M_Boats: Sealants for re-bedding deck items
by bownez＠juno.com 18 Sep '13

18 Sep '13

Hi Bill and Listers, I will be rebedding the handrails on my M23 this fall and I'm going to try Butyl tape. Question: Where are you purchasing the tape? The info article has Compass Marine listed, but a 50' roll is a lot of tape. Thanks, Bones ____________________________________________________________ 30-second trick for a flat belly This daily 30-second trick BOOSTS your body's #1 fat-burning hormone http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5239a13c6e0d1213c7a60st03vuc

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Re: M_Boats: Plate to go under mast tabernacle
by Beowulf2 18 Sep '13

18 Sep '13

You can also purchase a prefabricated plate to go under the tabernacle that is made so that you can install blocks to run you lines aft to the cockpit. Don't remember the company that makes them. But, someone on the list will for sure. Mike Hall M15 Dreki Sent from my iPad On Sep 15, 2013, at 3:17 PM, Stan Susman <stanpfa(a)pacbell.net> wrote: > Robbin, > I would remove the tabernacle, and because you saw a leak I would inspect for balsa rot or mushiness, allow to dry, wash with acetone(the boat not you), drill a series of 1/8 to 3/16 holes by way of any damage( not all the way thru), fill with neat epoxy or glass, or cotton flox thickened epoxy, and you could lay up a layer of glass on top but you don't really need it. Then mill a Stainless plate 1/8 or 3/16th" thick and larger then the tabernacle base and larger then the damaged area ( no need to mix stainless and aluminum) seal and bolt through the tabernacle, and bob's you're uncle . I took a shot at this for you as Jerry's confuser is on the fritz just now. If I can help let me know, > Stan > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig(a)verizon.net> > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 1:52 PM > Subject: M_Boats: Plate to go under mast tabernacle > > > Hi all, > I have discovered a major leak in the cabin top and down my support post in my M-23. The deck is slightly deformed and the base of the support post is slightly pushed into the cabin floor from one of the previous owners perhaps over tightening the rigging. I may be able to simply caulk the tabernacle and bolts but I probably should fix the deck. What I am planning is to figure out if the base of the support post is stable (I assume it is on the base of the hull at this point but cannot see under the floor) and to put a solid aluminum plate underneath the tabernacle that directly sits on the support post. I plan getting the plate made by emachineshop.com. Then glass the plate into the deck and cover with Kiwi grip or some cosmetic approach. > I would appreciate any suggestions on this project that anyone might have. > > Thanks > Robbin > M-23

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M-12 new owner needs jib & Main specs and source to buy
by Jared Prindle 16 Sep '13

16 Sep '13

Hi, I have an M-12 as well. My title says it was made in 1972. Mine is boat #3 so something is a little weird about your's being from 1969. Check the number stamped on the hull. It's on the bow, just inside from the jib tack. I'd imagine Jerry or Dave will be able to figure this out. I'm away from my sails right now but can measure for you if you haven't figured it out already. I know www.sailrite.com has dimensions but I do not know if they are exact.

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1999 Montgomery 17 for sale
by Mike Johnson 16 Sep '13

16 Sep '13

I'm selling my Monty 17. I've placed a very detailed advertisement on the Sailing Texas website. http://sailingtexas.com/201301/smontgomery17127.html Mike Johnson M17 #600

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M-12 new owner needs jib & Main specs and source to buy
by Terry Preston 16 Sep '13

16 Sep '13

I purchased an M-12 but it is missing the jib. There is a brass plate on the transom with a date 12-69. The boat is in very good shape and was used in our clubs youth program. Need some help: 1. Specs for jib and main 2. A source to purchase new sails for this boat Thanks, Terry Preston

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Greetings from a new M17 owner
by Keith R. Martin 12 Sep '13

12 Sep '13

Hello folks, My name is Keith Martin, I live in Burnaby, BC, Canada, ( a suburb of Vancouver). After a year long search I am thrilled to have just completed purchase and brought home to Canada my dream boat a 1982 M17, hull # 353, "Serenity". I am an electronics engineer by profession and have been a sailing enthusiast for a good part of my life. I served the last 10 years of a 25 year tenure with Scouts Canada running a Sea Scout Troop with a fleet ranging from 8 ft sabots up to a 24 ft fixed keel sloop. Having "done my time" with the Troop, I had been looking over the past year for an affordable, but CAPABLE boat for personal use to do some solo coastal cruising here in BC ( my wife Liz is a little like a cat, she likes to drink water, not so crazy about riding on it so I am going to be on my own a good bit of the time). After months of research, a lot of it available thanks to this strong Monty user community I set my sights on an M17. After 8 months of looking I found "Serenity". A little bit about "Serenity"... From what I gather she has spent a good part of her life in Arizona, sailing fresh water, with a few trips to the Sea of Cortez. The owners that I purchased her from have been sailing her on Lake Pleasant AZ just north of Phoenix. The owners previous to them were apparently located in Tuscon AZ. She is the 4 berth version and appears to be in nearly stock configuration with no modifications. I am looking forward to getting her out in the chuck for a couple of shakedown day sails in the near future. That's all for now, I just wanted to introduce myself and to say thank you to this group of active owners who have provided so much information online, it really made a huge impact on my due diligence and selection process... Keith M17-353, Serenity -- Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.

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Re: M_Boats: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 127, Issue 8
by Henry Rodriguez 12 Sep '13

12 Sep '13

-----Original Message----- From: "montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com" <montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: ‎9/‎12/‎2013 9:27 AM To: "montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 127, Issue 8 Send montgomery_boats mailing list submissions to montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com You can reach the person managing the list at montgomery_boats-owner(a)mailman.xmission.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of montgomery_boats digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Adjustable Backstay (Thomas Buzzi) 2. Re: Adjustable Backstay (Bill Wickett) 3. Re: Any Montgomery 15 brakes? owners in Southern California? (Fran Lebowitz) 4. Re: Adjustable Backstay (Thomas Buzzi) 5. Re: Adjustable Backstay (Bill Wickett) 6. Re: Adjustable Backstay (Rick Davies) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 18:45:58 -0500 From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Adjustable Backstay Message-ID: <CA+TbpAUv_rAw3-+1WTJFm3AkuBG8847ONoytyzKu4qn4pDjzOA(a)mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 thanks for the info. I will look up all the blocks you mentioned so I get a better idea of what goes where. I have not thought much about backstay tensioning but it does now seem to be worth the effort. I see from your picture that you have some sort of kick up rudder. Is that a type of "Idarudder". If so do you have one of those hydraulic cylinders things holding it down or do you use some sort of tensioning device like a rope or shock cord? I saw where ruddercraft sells shear pins for their old style rudder to hold the blade down until you hit something then you have to replace the pin, at three or four bucks a pop. Great picture. Still a ways for me to go with my craft before I can do that. Example, The aft cockpit drain stopped working. I tried to pick it clear but nothing doing. Finally I managed to crawl aft far enough to see just how it was configured. It looked like some kind of snake lying back there. Finally had to saw a hole (access port) in the aft cockpit wall to reach the hose clamps. When I finally got the thing out, after pulling out the cockpit end of the metal fitting the hose clamped onto, I realized that since 1977 when the boat was built the severe curves forced into the hose had finally managed to make the spring steel reinforcing inside the rubber migrate sideways so the hose just collapsed. A little dirt and leaves and voila, clogged for good. So I have decided to use a couple of inch and a half rubber sleeves held on with a couple of hose clamps on either end and make a simple "s" curve out of a piece of inch and a half pvc and two 90degree pvc elbows and just clamp the whole thing back together. No tight bends, no collapsing hose. I figure that since there is virtually no movement between the aft end of the cockpit and the aft end of the hull where it joins the transom that the rubber clamps will provide plenty of give should the need arise. Fairwinds, Tom B, Mont.17#258 On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 5:05 PM, <GILASAILR(a)aol.com> wrote: > Tom, > > The 8:1 would be fine, I believe you could use dyneema or similar line for > the cascade line instead of wire.If you change to line here use a bullet > block at the lower "A" block. > > The set-up on my own boat is a wire over a block at the end of the backstay > attached to the block and tackle on the starboard side of transom attached > to the chainplate. Works fine - the type shown on Harken page would be > 'faster acting' and does not rely upon the running line for the backstay > itself. The cleat and line matter nought per side of the boat as they are > acting > on lower "A" block - straight down. > > GO > > Photo of the version I have used for 12+ years attached. from MSOG - photo > credit Sean Mulligan. > > > > > > > Harken info from their site: > > > 8:1 Split Backstay > A more powerful version of the split backstay adjuster uses a doubling > wire running through a wire block for a purchase of 8:1. > > Diagram > Ref. Description Small Boat > Part No. Midrange > Part No. Big Boat > Part No. A Single _304_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=304 > ) > _308_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=308) B Fiddle > _2655_ > (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2655) > _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _2621_ > (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) > _1559_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1559) C Fiddle > _2658_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2658) > _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _2624_ > (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) > _1556_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1556) > > > > > In a message dated 9/11/2013 1:04:37 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, > thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com writes: > > http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3896 > ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 20:40:34 -0400 From: Bill Wickett <billwick(a)gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Cc: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Adjustable Backstay Message-ID: <FBE7E6B2-3994-4681-8376-0E672AAAB067(a)gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii We use this set up on our 17. C S Johnson split backstay car 38-201 http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00036.htm Harken Bullet block 29 mmhttp://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5635&taxid=424 Clam cleat CL230 http://www.clamcleat.com/cleats/cleat_details.asp?theid2=49 Bill Wickett On 2013-09-11, at 7:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> wrote: > thanks for the info. I will look up all the blocks you mentioned so I get a > better idea of what goes where. I have not thought much about backstay > tensioning but it does now seem to be worth the effort. > I see from your picture that you have some sort of kick up rudder. Is that > a type of "Idarudder". If so do you have one of those hydraulic cylinders > things holding it down or do you use some sort of tensioning device like a > rope or shock cord? I saw where ruddercraft sells shear pins for their old > style rudder to hold the blade down until you hit something then you have > to replace the pin, at three or four bucks a pop. > Great picture. Still a ways for me to go with my craft before I can do that. > Example, The aft cockpit drain stopped working. I tried to pick it clear > but nothing doing. Finally I managed to crawl aft far enough to see just > how it was configured. It looked like some kind of snake lying back there. > Finally had to saw a hole (access port) in the aft cockpit wall to reach > the hose clamps. When I finally got the thing out, after pulling out the > cockpit end of the metal fitting the hose clamped onto, I realized that > since 1977 when the boat was built the severe curves forced into the hose > had finally managed to make the spring steel reinforcing inside the rubber > migrate sideways so the hose just collapsed. A little dirt and leaves and > voila, clogged for good. So I have decided to use a couple of inch and a > half rubber sleeves held on with a couple of hose clamps on either end and > make a simple "s" curve out of a piece of inch and a half pvc and two > 90degree pvc elbows and just clamp the whole thing back together. No tight > bends, no collapsing hose. I figure that since there is virtually no > movement between the aft end of the cockpit and the aft end of the hull > where it joins the transom that the rubber clamps will provide plenty of > give should the need arise. > > Fairwinds, > Tom B, > Mont.17#258 > > > On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 5:05 PM, <GILASAILR(a)aol.com> wrote: > >> Tom, >> >> The 8:1 would be fine, I believe you could use dyneema or similar line for >> the cascade line instead of wire.If you change to line here use a bullet >> block at the lower "A" block. >> >> The set-up on my own boat is a wire over a block at the end of the backstay >> attached to the block and tackle on the starboard side of transom attached >> to the chainplate. Works fine - the type shown on Harken page would be >> 'faster acting' and does not rely upon the running line for the backstay >> itself. The cleat and line matter nought per side of the boat as they are >> acting >> on lower "A" block - straight down. >> >> GO >> >> Photo of the version I have used for 12+ years attached. from MSOG - photo >> credit Sean Mulligan. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Harken info from their site: >> >> >> 8:1 Split Backstay >> A more powerful version of the split backstay adjuster uses a doubling >> wire running through a wire block for a purchase of 8:1. >> >> Diagram >> Ref. Description Small Boat >> Part No. Midrange >> Part No. Big Boat >> Part No. A Single _304_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=304 >> ) >> _308_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=308) B Fiddle >> _2655_ >> (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2655) >> _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _2621_ >> (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) >> _1559_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1559) C Fiddle >> _2658_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2658) >> _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _2624_ >> (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) >> _1556_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1556) >> >> >> >> >> In a message dated 9/11/2013 1:04:37 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, >> thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com writes: >> >> http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3896 >> ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 20:34:18 -0700 From: Fran Lebowitz <ftlebowitz(a)gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Any Montgomery 15 brakes? owners in Southern California? Message-ID: <CADQ6+n8+WciVdtd5h3dDr_aAX8AeBOhqA=Znz1w8vvp881wX6w(a)mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 We used to have an M15 in So Cal, going up and down the mountain to Big Bear once a season. It did fine with no brakes. We pulled with 4 x 4 "88 Landcruiser, a 4K vehicle. Best, Fran On Mon, Sep 9, 2013 at 9:48 PM, stevetrapp <stevetrapp(a)q.com> wrote: > My M-15 trailer does not have brakes, but the boat and trailer are > light enough that I have not had a problem towing it around Washington, > Idaho, and Oregon, including up and over and down several mountain passes > in those journeys. > Steve > M -15 #335 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <casioqv(a)usermail.com> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 11:07 AM > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Any Montgomery 15 owners in Southern California? > > > > That was my experience with my Catalina 22 also- the trailer can end up > being more work to maintain than the boat! For my extending tongue it was > so rusted I had to cut out and replace all of the associated metal, as well > as replace the brakes, lights, bearings, and bunks. > > > > Do Monty 15 trailers typically have brakes? I think with an monty my > Volvo could handle it safely without trailer brakes which would reduce > maintenance and corrosion issues somewhat. > > > > I was previously looking at the Potter 15 and mostly switched my > interest to the Monty because I heard it can point much better. I've been > slowly working my way up to engineless cruising, sailing my C22 for several > years with my old 1966 Evinrude in the cockpit locker ready to mount... and > found that I never needed it. Sometimes marinas get angry about visitors > docking under sail- but seemingly less so the smaller the vessel. So I > think I can cruise without a motor but if and only if I have a boat that > can go to windward about as well as a C22. > > > > Still, the 2hp honda does sound like a really light and simple motor, so > perhaps I will try getting one but also keeping it in the cockpit locker > for emergencies only. > > > > Tyler > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Larry@DGS Hughston" <Larry.Hughston(a)dgs.ca.gov> > > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > > Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2013 9:01:59 AM > > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Any Montgomery 15 owners in Southern California? > > > > Bob is great. I always got an answer from him by email. Very > responsible person. Hope you find the M-15 to your liking. Check out the > trailer too, very carefully. I had to spend $1000. On my trailer to get > all working again. The extension had to be loosened by a professional with > heat. I keep it greased now. I had to rebuild the bunks also and I used > "veranda" composite "wood" with stainless bolts. I never want to do that > again ! My Monty is from 1981 and is pretty solid. If you decide to get > an outboard for aux power I have heard good things about the Honda 2 hp. > The one drawback of the Honda is that it is aircooled. Not the best when > exposed to salt water and salt air. Keep us all posted on the new > acquisition. ---Larry with M15 Old in 189. > > > > > > > > ----- > > No virus found in this message. > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > Version: 2013.0.3343 / Virus Database: 3199/6396 - Release Date: 06/09/13 > > Internal Virus Database is out of date. > > > ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 08:23:35 -0500 From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Adjustable Backstay Message-ID: <CA+TbpAWv3u69ek6S+tCOGgS0_P2ZchBEkxDhdzbYqGtHsb=1kA(a)mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Thanks,Bill for this info,saved me a bunch of searching. That is a neat way to use a clamclete. Fair winds, Tom B M-17, #258 On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 7:40 PM, Bill Wickett <billwick(a)gmail.com> wrote: > We use this set up on our 17. > > C S Johnson split backstay car 38-201 > http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00036.htm > Harken Bullet block 29 mmhttp:// > www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5635&taxid=424 > Clam cleat CL230 > http://www.clamcleat.com/cleats/cleat_details.asp?theid2=49 > > Bill Wickett > > > > On 2013-09-11, at 7:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > thanks for the info. I will look up all the blocks you mentioned so I > get a > > better idea of what goes where. I have not thought much about backstay > > tensioning but it does now seem to be worth the effort. > > I see from your picture that you have some sort of kick up rudder. Is > that > > a type of "Idarudder". If so do you have one of those hydraulic cylinders > > things holding it down or do you use some sort of tensioning device like > a > > rope or shock cord? I saw where ruddercraft sells shear pins for their > old > > style rudder to hold the blade down until you hit something then you have > > to replace the pin, at three or four bucks a pop. > > Great picture. Still a ways for me to go with my craft before I can do > that. > > Example, The aft cockpit drain stopped working. I tried to pick it clear > > but nothing doing. Finally I managed to crawl aft far enough to see just > > how it was configured. It looked like some kind of snake lying back > there. > > Finally had to saw a hole (access port) in the aft cockpit wall to reach > > the hose clamps. When I finally got the thing out, after pulling out the > > cockpit end of the metal fitting the hose clamped onto, I realized that > > since 1977 when the boat was built the severe curves forced into the hose > > had finally managed to make the spring steel reinforcing inside the > rubber > > migrate sideways so the hose just collapsed. A little dirt and leaves and > > voila, clogged for good. So I have decided to use a couple of inch and a > > half rubber sleeves held on with a couple of hose clamps on either end > and > > make a simple "s" curve out of a piece of inch and a half pvc and two > > 90degree pvc elbows and just clamp the whole thing back together. No > tight > > bends, no collapsing hose. I figure that since there is virtually no > > movement between the aft end of the cockpit and the aft end of the hull > > where it joins the transom that the rubber clamps will provide plenty of > > give should the need arise. > > > > Fairwinds, > > Tom B, > > Mont.17#258 > > > > > > On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 5:05 PM, <GILASAILR(a)aol.com> wrote: > > > >> Tom, > >> > >> The 8:1 would be fine, I believe you could use dyneema or similar line > for > >> the cascade line instead of wire.If you change to line here use a bullet > >> block at the lower "A" block. > >> > >> The set-up on my own boat is a wire over a block at the end of the > backstay > >> attached to the block and tackle on the starboard side of transom > attached > >> to the chainplate. Works fine - the type shown on Harken page would be > >> 'faster acting' and does not rely upon the running line for the > backstay > >> itself. The cleat and line matter nought per side of the boat as they > are > >> acting > >> on lower "A" block - straight down. > >> > >> GO > >> > >> Photo of the version I have used for 12+ years attached. from MSOG - > photo > >> credit Sean Mulligan. > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> Harken info from their site: > >> > >> > >> 8:1 Split Backstay > >> A more powerful version of the split backstay adjuster uses a doubling > >> wire running through a wire block for a purchase of 8:1. > >> > >> Diagram > >> Ref. Description Small Boat > >> Part No. Midrange > >> Part No. Big Boat > >> Part No. A Single _304_ ( > http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=304 > >> ) > >> _308_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=308) B Fiddle > >> _2655_ > >> (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2655) > >> _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _2621_ > >> (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) > >> _1559_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1559) C Fiddle > >> _2658_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2658) > >> _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _2624_ > >> (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) > >> _1556_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1556) > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> In a message dated 9/11/2013 1:04:37 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, > >> thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com writes: > >> > >> http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3896 > >> > ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 09:40:43 -0400 From: Bill Wickett <billwick(a)gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Adjustable Backstay Message-ID: <186E887A-B3FB-484D-9D29-832167729EB3(a)gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii The sheave in it makes it workable for this situation. On 2013-09-12, at 9:23 AM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> wrote: > Thanks,Bill for this info,saved me a bunch of searching. That is a neat way > to use a clamclete. > > Fair winds, > Tom B > M-17, #258 > > > On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 7:40 PM, Bill Wickett <billwick(a)gmail.com> wrote: > >> We use this set up on our 17. >> >> C S Johnson split backstay car 38-201 >> http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00036.htm >> Harken Bullet block 29 mmhttp:// >> www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5635&taxid=424 >> Clam cleat CL230 >> http://www.clamcleat.com/cleats/cleat_details.asp?theid2=49 >> >> Bill Wickett >> >> >> >> On 2013-09-11, at 7:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> thanks for the info. I will look up all the blocks you mentioned so I >> get a >>> better idea of what goes where. I have not thought much about backstay >>> tensioning but it does now seem to be worth the effort. >>> I see from your picture that you have some sort of kick up rudder. Is >> that >>> a type of "Idarudder". If so do you have one of those hydraulic cylinders >>> things holding it down or do you use some sort of tensioning device like >> a >>> rope or shock cord? I saw where ruddercraft sells shear pins for their >> old >>> style rudder to hold the blade down until you hit something then you have >>> to replace the pin, at three or four bucks a pop. >>> Great picture. Still a ways for me to go with my craft before I can do >> that. >>> Example, The aft cockpit drain stopped working. I tried to pick it clear >>> but nothing doing. Finally I managed to crawl aft far enough to see just >>> how it was configured. It looked like some kind of snake lying back >> there. >>> Finally had to saw a hole (access port) in the aft cockpit wall to reach >>> the hose clamps. When I finally got the thing out, after pulling out the >>> cockpit end of the metal fitting the hose clamped onto, I realized that >>> since 1977 when the boat was built the severe curves forced into the hose >>> had finally managed to make the spring steel reinforcing inside the >> rubber >>> migrate sideways so the hose just collapsed. A little dirt and leaves and >>> voila, clogged for good. So I have decided to use a couple of inch and a >>> half rubber sleeves held on with a couple of hose clamps on either end >> and >>> make a simple "s" curve out of a piece of inch and a half pvc and two >>> 90degree pvc elbows and just clamp the whole thing back together. No >> tight >>> bends, no collapsing hose. I figure that since there is virtually no >>> movement between the aft end of the cockpit and the aft end of the hull >>> where it joins the transom that the rubber clamps will provide plenty of >>> give should the need arise. >>> >>> Fairwinds, >>> Tom B, >>> Mont.17#258 >>> >>> >>> On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 5:05 PM, <GILASAILR(a)aol.com> wrote: >>> >>>> Tom, >>>> >>>> The 8:1 would be fine, I believe you could use dyneema or similar line >> for >>>> the cascade line instead of wire.If you change to line here use a bullet >>>> block at the lower "A" block. >>>> >>>> The set-up on my own boat is a wire over a block at the end of the >> backstay >>>> attached to the block and tackle on the starboard side of transom >> attached >>>> to the chainplate. Works fine - the type shown on Harken page would be >>>> 'faster acting' and does not rely upon the running line for the >> backstay >>>> itself. The cleat and line matter nought per side of the boat as they >> are >>>> acting >>>> on lower "A" block - straight down. >>>> >>>> GO >>>> >>>> Photo of the version I have used for 12+ years attached. from MSOG - >> photo >>>> credit Sean Mulligan. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Harken info from their site: >>>> >>>> >>>> 8:1 Split Backstay >>>> A more powerful version of the split backstay adjuster uses a doubling >>>> wire running through a wire block for a purchase of 8:1. >>>> >>>> Diagram >>>> Ref. Description Small Boat >>>> Part No. Midrange >>>> Part No. Big Boat >>>> Part No. A Single _304_ ( >> http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=304 >>>> ) >>>> _308_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=308) B Fiddle >>>> _2655_ >>>> (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2655) >>>> _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _2621_ >>>> (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) >>>> _1559_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1559) C Fiddle >>>> _2658_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2658) >>>> _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _2624_ >>>> (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) >>>> _1556_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1556) >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> In a message dated 9/11/2013 1:04:37 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, >>>> thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com writes: >>>> >>>> http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3896 >>>> >> ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 10:26:05 -0400 From: Rick Davies <jdavies104(a)gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Adjustable Backstay Message-ID: <CA+0OvVjdjj7s=vizqsdBYq2Bh_kAWC_c1jNzQ=VbcfvBJcR77w(a)mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I used a small fiddle block from Duckworks (Pt. RL-378-A) attached to the eyestrap on the transom along with the CL 230 clamcleat/sheave combination to make a 4:1 adjuster. The second sheave at the top end is the lower sheave on the backstay car. You can get the general idea in the picture, although the top's kind of obscured. The line is made fast at the top end, run down through the fiddle, up to the backstay car sheave, back down to the fiddle, and then through the sheave/camcleat combination. Works great. Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Thu, Sep 12, 2013 at 9:40 AM, Bill Wickett <billwick(a)gmail.com> wrote: > The sheave in it makes it workable for this situation. > > On 2013-09-12, at 9:23 AM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > Thanks,Bill for this info,saved me a bunch of searching. That is a neat > way > > to use a clamclete. > > > > Fair winds, > > Tom B > > M-17, #258 > > > > > > On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 7:40 PM, Bill Wickett <billwick(a)gmail.com> > wrote: > > > >> We use this set up on our 17. > >> > >> C S Johnson split backstay car 38-201 > >> http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00036.htm > >> Harken Bullet block 29 mmhttp:// > >> www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5635&taxid=424 > >> Clam cleat CL230 > >> http://www.clamcleat.com/cleats/cleat_details.asp?theid2=49 > >> > >> Bill Wickett > >> > >> > >> > >> On 2013-09-11, at 7:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> wrote: > >> > >>> thanks for the info. I will look up all the blocks you mentioned so I > >> get a > >>> better idea of what goes where. I have not thought much about backstay > >>> tensioning but it does now seem to be worth the effort. > >>> I see from your picture that you have some sort of kick up rudder. Is > >> that > >>> a type of "Idarudder". If so do you have one of those hydraulic > cylinders > >>> things holding it down or do you use some sort of tensioning device > like > >> a > >>> rope or shock cord? I saw where ruddercraft sells shear pins for their > >> old > >>> style rudder to hold the blade down until you hit something then you > have > >>> to replace the pin, at three or four bucks a pop. > >>> Great picture. Still a ways for me to go with my craft before I can do > >> that. > >>> Example, The aft cockpit drain stopped working. I tried to pick it > clear > >>> but nothing doing. Finally I managed to crawl aft far enough to see > just > >>> how it was configured. It looked like some kind of snake lying back > >> there. > >>> Finally had to saw a hole (access port) in the aft cockpit wall to > reach > >>> the hose clamps. When I finally got the thing out, after pulling out > the > >>> cockpit end of the metal fitting the hose clamped onto, I realized that > >>> since 1977 when the boat was built the severe curves forced into the > hose > >>> had finally managed to make the spring steel reinforcing inside the > >> rubber > >>> migrate sideways so the hose just collapsed. A little dirt and leaves > and > >>> voila, clogged for good. So I have decided to use a couple of inch and > a > >>> half rubber sleeves held on with a couple of hose clamps on either end > >> and > >>> make a simple "s" curve out of a piece of inch and a half pvc and two > >>> 90degree pvc elbows and just clamp the whole thing back together. No > >> tight > >>> bends, no collapsing hose. I figure that since there is virtually no > >>> movement between the aft end of the cockpit and the aft end of the hull > >>> where it joins the transom that the rubber clamps will provide plenty > of > >>> give should the need arise. > >>> > >>> Fairwinds, > >>> Tom B, > >>> Mont.17#258 > >>> > >>> > >>> On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 5:05 PM, <GILASAILR(a)aol.com> wrote: > >>> > >>>> Tom, > >>>> > >>>> The 8:1 would be fine, I believe you could use dyneema or similar line > >> for > >>>> the cascade line instead of wire.If you change to line here use a > bullet > >>>> block at the lower "A" block. > >>>> > >>>> The set-up on my own boat is a wire over a block at the end of the > >> backstay > >>>> attached to the block and tackle on the starboard side of transom > >> attached > >>>> to the chainplate. Works fine - the type shown on Harken page would > be > >>>> 'faster acting' and does not rely upon the running line for the > >> backstay > >>>> itself. The cleat and line matter nought per side of the boat as they > >> are > >>>> acting > >>>> on lower "A" block - straight down. > >>>> > >>>> GO > >>>> > >>>> Photo of the version I have used for 12+ years attached. from MSOG - > >> photo > >>>> credit Sean Mulligan. > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> Harken info from their site: > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> 8:1 Split Backstay > >>>> A more powerful version of the split backstay adjuster uses a > doubling > >>>> wire running through a wire block for a purchase of 8:1. > >>>> > >>>> Diagram > >>>> Ref. Description Small Boat > >>>> Part No. Midrange > >>>> Part No. Big Boat > >>>> Part No. A Single _304_ ( > >> http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=304 > >>>> ) > >>>> _308_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=308) B Fiddle > >>>> _2655_ > >>>> (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2655) > >>>> _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _2621_ > >>>> (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) > >>>> _1559_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1559) C > Fiddle > >>>> _2658_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2658) > >>>> _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _2624_ > >>>> (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) > >>>> _1556_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1556) > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> In a message dated 9/11/2013 1:04:37 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, > >>>> thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com writes: > >>>> > >>>> http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3896 > >>>> > >> > >

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Re: M_Boats: Adjustable Backstay
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 12 Sep '13

12 Sep '13

Tom, The 8:1 would be fine, I believe you could use dyneema or similar line for the cascade line instead of wire.If you change to line here use a bullet block at the lower "A" block. The set-up on my own boat is a wire over a block at the end of the backstay attached to the block and tackle on the starboard side of transom attached to the chainplate. Works fine - the type shown on Harken page would be 'faster acting' and does not rely upon the running line for the backstay itself. The cleat and line matter nought per side of the boat as they are acting on lower "A" block - straight down. GO Photo of the version I have used for 12+ years attached. from MSOG - photo credit Sean Mulligan. Harken info from their site: 8:1 Split Backstay A more powerful version of the split backstay adjuster uses a doubling wire running through a wire block for a purchase of 8:1. Diagram Ref. Description Small Boat Part No. Midrange Part No. Big Boat Part No. A Single _304_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=304) _308_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=308) B Fiddle _2655_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2655) _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _1559_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1559) C Fiddle _2658_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2658) _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _1556_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1556) In a message dated 9/11/2013 1:04:37 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com writes: http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3896

4 5

Mast Plate organizer
by Todd Bradley 11 Sep '13

11 Sep '13

Hi Sean I noticed that use mast plate organizer. I was thinking that if I end up taking off the tabernacle mast base to re-bed it would be nice to add one of these plates. I found some at Garhauer http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=68 The one that looks like the best fit is 7L x 4 W. The actual dimensions of the base plate are 6 L x 4W. It doesnt seem like it would be a big deal to have an extra ½ of plate in the length direction? Any interference when you raise/lower your mast? Thanks! Todd M-23 #86

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