November 2007 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: A new addition to the Photo Site
by Rmceagrella＠aol.com 23 Nov '07

23 Nov '07

Glad to hear from ya Bill. Rick M23 Raven **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)

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A new addition to the Photo Site
by Bill Lamica 22 Nov '07

22 Nov '07

Hi All… Happy Thanksgiving, It's been some time since I participated in the MSOG E-mail list. So, for those readers who haven't got the foggiest idea who I am… Allow me to introduce… me J I used to own a really nice M17 and I am the webmaster of the MSOG Photo Site. I know, there have been only a few updates for the past year, and that is because I was pretty much physically unable to. I'm a bit better now and can spend short bouts at the keyboard/monitor. So, without further apology & explanation: FIRST: I have received an adequate donation from an anonymous source to keep the Photo Site up and available for another year. Hope you all visit from time to time. SECOND: Bob Eeg (everyone knows he owns Montgomery Boats) and I have kept in touch (he knows I like his M-Boats), with him sending excellent photos of special projects, now and then. So, here is a Montgomery Boats, special projects update to the MSOG Photo Site: www.msogphotosite.com/mpage.html Give the page a little time, there are allot of photos. The new "Manufacturer's Page" is dedicated to the special boats and modifications that come from Bob's Boatshop. This first example is an M17 named Strawanza. She is crafted with a watertight cabin and a custom crafted aluminum companionway door, special ports, special cleats, 12 foot oars (no motor mount), windvane and a 15 month sailing schedule for the owner to take her from San Diego to the West coast of Africa and his home. When Bob told me about Strawanza, I made him promise to get me a bunch of photos (he even bought a new camera) and I told him he had to write the copy. So, the new "Manufacturer's Page" is where he gets to show off a bit. I believe you'll enjoy Strawanza. And, if you have questions, address them to Bob Bill Lamica www.MSOGPhotoSite.com <http://www.msogphotosite.com/> P.s. if you loose the link you can find it under the LINKS & INFORMATION section on the front page of the Photo Site.

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Happy Thanksgiving
by Larry E Yake 22 Nov '07

22 Nov '07

Happy Thanksgiving to you all. Sailing and corresponding with you fine folks is one of the many blessings I'm thankful for on this day. Seems strange not to be in the beginning stages of planning for a summer Montgomery San Juan cruise, but we'll shoot for 2009. Larry

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Re: M_Boats: Balso core moisture on M17 Happy T-day to All ! ! !
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 22 Nov '07

22 Nov '07

Dick, Excellent idea to use the 'Starboard' for backing plates! No hard edges to collapse or damage the underside of the laminate. Great application. GaryO. M-17 #316a **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)

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Re: M_Boats: Balso core moisture on M17
by bownez＠juno.com 22 Nov '07

22 Nov '07

Hi Dick, Good work attacking the wet core on your foredeck, depending upon degree of saturation, this may fix your deck, or, you may be in for additional work. I had a partially saturated deck on my M17, and I went through the proceedure you described in your post. It was a temporary fix. If the deck is really wet, it will migrate to the dryer areas and the only way to really solve the problem is to rebuild the deck complete from above or below. I performed the rebuild myself from below this summer. After cutting away the lower layer of fiberglass, you could see that no amount of epoxy injection will remedy a saturated balsa core. It needs to be removed and replaced. I have pictures of the painstaking job, and believe me, it's not pretty. Probably right up there with keel rebuilding work. However, job is done, the boat is worth it, and I won't have water dripping on me while I'm trying to sleep below. If someone wishes to learn how to work with fiberglass and epoxy, this is the job for you. My vote for System Three Epoxy, it's a great product! Let me know if you would like more of the grim details and pictures. Larry Yake also has been down this path. (sistership yellow hull 70's M17). Later, Bones

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Balso core moisture on M17
by Dick Straubel 21 Nov '07

21 Nov '07

Had been postponing dealing with moisture in the balsa core on the fore deck of my M17. Deck fittings (cleat and bow pulpit) and bedding sealants aged and allowed moisture in. Moisture ended up as far back as where the front of the cabin meets the fore deck. Drilled a few holes up from underneath into the core at places where I suspected moisture had saturated the core (you can tell after you drill a hole - wood fragments on the bit are wet.) Took off the pulpit and cleat, then let the old girl cook in the sun for a couple of weeks. Moisture can escape up through the bolt holes and down and out through the holes I drilled up from the bottom. (You have to protect the deck openings at night to prevent dew or rain from getting in.) Added 3:1 epoxy -- used a $.78 "applicator bottle" (looks just like a restarant red plastic ketchup dispenser I picked up at Walmart). The bottle has a small enough tip to insert into the deck bolt holes and the flexible bottle allows you to generate a bit of pressure to inject the goo. Used duct tape on the inside under the bolt holes to keep the goo from running out before it can set. Redrilled the 1/4" deck fitting bolt holes, bought longer bolts and made starboard backing plates to provide better support underneath -- the original just used washers against the laminate on the inside surface of the deck. Monty lives! --------------------------------- Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now.

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Storm Jib Info.
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 21 Nov '07

21 Nov '07

>From USSailing - see link below.: "As the winds approach and exceed 15 knots, many sailboats should have a single reefing point placed. In large sailboats (greater than 30 feet LOA: Overall Length) the second point, is often placed when winds exceed 25 knots. Smaller boats (below 26 to 30 feet LOA) may have greater difficulty in high winds. Often it is best to sail with a storm jib (25% jib) or, if a beginning sailor, to hoist the "Iron Genoa" ( turn on the motor and take down the sails ). Some large sailboats are designed to sail efficiently and comfortably without reefing in winds of 20 to 25 knots." _http://www.sailingusa.info/weather_and_reefing.htm_ (http://www.sailingusa.info/weather_and_reefing.htm) **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)

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Re: M_Boats: size of storm jib for M 15
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 21 Nov '07

21 Nov '07

>From the MSOG site. : "Measurements as supplied by Jerry Montgomery I 15.33 FT. J 4.58 FT. P 16.83 FT. E 7.83 FT. Working jib as supplied by Montgomery was a 128%. " _http://www.baconsails.com/stormjib.html_ (http://www.baconsails.com/stormjib.html) Check here for some general ideas. GO **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)

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size of storm jib for M 15
by Flickasf＠aol.com 21 Nov '07

21 Nov '07

Do any of you have a storm jib for your M 15? I need the measurements because I am thinking of sewing my own. Thank you, Bert Felton M 15,#365,Zephyr ************************************** Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)

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Centerboard not centered
by Gordon Gilbert 21 Nov '07

21 Nov '07

Hi, everyone: The centerboard on my just-purchased ¹83 Montgomery 17 appears to be off center when retracted into the keel trunk, so that its starboard side rubs against the trunk in the aft area (I probed around the retracted centerboard with a metal ruler, and there¹s plenty of clearance everywhere but this spot), causing the board to stick in the up position. I sprayed WD-40 liberally into the pendant hole and was able to lower the board, but I¹d like to eliminate the rubbing anyway. What pushed the board off center, I¹m guessing, is that it protrudes an inch or so below the trunk even when retracted, and that the weight of the boat sitting on it bent the hinge bolt. Does that seem feasible, and have others had this problem? Is it common for the board on these boats to protrude beyond the keel trunk? I also noticed that loading the boat onto the trailer pushes the board further into the trunk, as there¹s about two inches of slack in the pendant from where I could pull it up while in the water. I'm hoping that the trunk hasn't expanded; this boat has never been kept on the water. The boat¹s trailer is an EZ Loader with side rollers and a keel roller on which the keel (centerboard, in my case) rests. Once I¹ve pulled the board, replaced the hinge bolt and re-centered the board (or whatever else needs to be done), should I remove the keel roller so that the boat rests only on the side hull rollers? Will this put too much weight on the hull in too few places? My other thought is to replace the EZ Loader with a bunk-type trailer, with the boat supported totally by the bunks. I¹d appreciate any suggestions on ways to keep my centerboard ³centered² and working well. Thanks! Gordon

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