[Freshnews] Hey, Eat!

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Author: freshnews
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To: freshnews
Subject: [Freshnews] Hey, Eat!
Hey, Eat! Vol. 63, September 23, 2005
Liberty Heights Fresh – 1300 South at 1100 East Salt Lake City – (801)
58-FRESH



Growing up in apple orchards back in Southwest Michigan, the many
subtleties of diverse textures, colors and crunches of this season’s
fruit stir memories of endless flavor comparisons and combinations. For
me, apples define what is so delicious about autumn. And what to eat
along with them is just the beginning of the season’s fun in the
kitchen, and pleasure at the table.


The New Kids on the (Orchard) Block

There’s a chill seeping into the morning air. Daylight fades earlier in
the day; and as September winds to a close it becomes certain—it’s
already time to indulge in the flavors of apples.

The lyrical organic Honeycrisp apple is as tasty as it sounds. The
progeny of the eastern favorite Macoun and the Honeygold, its peel is a
mottled red over a yellow ground color. It has a balanced sweet-acidic
flavor that along with its crisp flesh makes it perfect for eating
fresh.

25 miles north of Wendover just east of Pilot Peak my friend Dean
Stevens tends to Donner Springs Orchards. A rancher for 35 years, he
planted his first apple trees 25 years ago. His sturdy trees provide
seasonal treats like juicy Jonagolds—a cross of Jonathan and Golden
Delicious. Crisp and slightly tart, these large fruit are striped with
red over a bright yellow peel. And at the store, we’re really excited
about the Royal Red Gala, the lovechild of Golden Delicious and Cox
Orange. Its golden skin shows off heavy red striping, it actually looks
red-orange. The dense flesh is crisp and with an exceptional juice
content. Not only are they great eaten fresh, but we love them as part
of a cheese plate, grated over maple syrup infused oatmeal, or chopped
into a great fall salad. Either one of these apples are a real high
desert dessert!

Farmstead Love
No offense to the yellow bricks of childhood, but we love farmhouse
cheddar. One of the best to cross our lips is England’s Montgomery’s
Cheddar. Its complex flavor is a result of the expertise and care Jamie
Montgomery and Steve Bridges of Manor Farm impart into every wheel.
Unpasteurized cow’s milk cheese develops for at least 14 months,
resulting in rich meaty flavors and a dry, almost crystalline texture.

One place in California is quickly catching onto the classic farmstead
methods of merry old England. Fiscalini San Joaquin Gold can probably be
called our favorite mistake. Not on our part—but a fortunate misfortune
for the folks at Fiscalini. Originally intended to evoke the smooth
flavors of the Piedmontese Fontina, the first resulting batch was
thought to be disaster. But folks seemed to dig the flavor and texture.
Raw cow’s milk curds are formed into 30 pound wheels and aged upright
for 14 months. During the process, they’re turned each and every single
day. The result is a flesh with toasted nuts and browned butter scents
and a buttery hued interior. The acidity is nicely balanced and there’s
enough salt to round out the flavor. It’s worthy in wedge form atop a
cheese plate or sliced and melted into your favorite grilled cheese
sandwich! (See recipe below…)

The Easiest Caramelized Onion Recipe Ever
Just open the jar. That is, if you've got La Vecchia Dispensa Creamed
Onions. From the masterminds behinds balsamic based preserves and
condiments for everything sweet and savory, come the latest agro dolce
joy to come out of a jar. Sweet Italian onions are cooked down with
plenty of balsamic vinegar from Modena for a thick, pungent, and full
flavored sidekick. Serve up the sweet and sour flavors with your
favorite roasted meats, atop a soft-rind cheese for a starter, or better
yet, sandwiched between good bread, farmstead cheddar, and the season's
first apples!

Monty’s Grilled Cheese Sandwich Recipe
I like to use a nice crispy loaf of the Crumb Bros. Sourdough sliced
about ½” thick. If you like it like I do with extra calories then I
spread a little De Louis Fils Aioli on each slice. This is optional of
course. I like it cheesy so I sandwich about 2 to 3 ounces of sliced
Montgomery’s Cheddar between the bread. I like to melt a tablespoon or
two of Pamplie Charentes Poitou Butter with Sea Salt in a non-stick pan
under medium heat. Place the sandwich in the pan and brown both sides.
As a condiment the La Vecchia Dispensa Creamed Onions with Balsamic is
superb. Enjoy it with local Ale and a sliced fresh local Apple.

Hey, eat well!
Steven