I personally don't care for fringe on pants, which is a personal
decision of course, but I sleep on my side a lot and don't like the
extra bunching under the hips and thighs. I made a pair of pants with no
outside seam which I liked pretty well for this reason. The inside-seam
vs saddle situation is a notable consideration however, although the
saddle actually rubs somewhat behind/below the seam area. For
outside-only seam, it is not difficult to arrange large hides to meet on
the outside, on a bit of a slanting bias, so the thicker side is in
front (knees), and kinda biasing-around slightly to get a thick seat as
well. Without an inside seam, tailoring the crotch is critical, and an
extra piece can be added to fill in the front, with drop-front over
drawstrings etc (at the risk of starting to look like a "cod-piece").
All this may call for a home-made pattern and a trial pair of shorts
would be an excellent investment.
I find it takes me more that twice as long to sew a seam with a welt
(getting thru three layers gives me much more trouble than two). Welts
are invaluable on seams that take wear, like moccasins, but less
required on pants-legs, unless you want to sew in a fringe-piece.
Deerskin is good because it is both soft and tough. The seams will pack
down and you really won't have much trouble after they break in. Of
course, avoid inside knots, lumps, etc, especially where two seams meet.
The knee-britches vs water is a good point. I think the voyageurs relied
more on wool for this reason.
Pat Quilter
-----Original Message-----
From: hist_text-bounces@???
[mailto:hist_text-bounces@???] On Behalf Of
char@???
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 1:12 PM
To: hist_text@???
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Buck skin stitching
Dave,
My current pare was made with both inner and outer seam. Walking and
riding with those is the reason I'll only have an outer leg seam on my
next pare. Which I will probably cut at the knee and add leggings
instead. Since I have started trapping, and paddle alot of canoe I've
gone tired of the permanent legs getting wet. So I plan to artifake a
pare of worn out, there for cut of pantaloons.
About the seam, the two outer layers (the welt being the middle one) can
be folded out from the seam and stitched to the leg with a wipstitch
only partially penetrating the skin. Then you can cut of the welt
(fringe piece) on the inside and get a smoth seam on the outside as
well. I did this on a pare of thick wool narrow front fall trouser which
I made for a friend of mine who spends alot of time in the saddle and he
hasn't complained, yet :).
Char
2008-07-21 David Scott wrote:
Char, if I use a saddle stitch there is going to be a small, "ridge"
where the material meets. If a welt is used and the welt is fringe,
this "ridge" can be on the outside and you won't notice it. The inside,
against the leg will then be smooth. Is that how you did yours?
Thanks.
>
>--- On Mon, 7/21/08, char@??? wrote:
>From: char@???
>Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Buck skin stitching
>To: davmscot@???
>Cc: hist_text@???
>Date: Monday, July 21, 2008, 4:56 AM
>
>>
>
Dave,>
I might be wrong here but I would after wearing buckskin pantaloons for
10 years suggest that you find or make a pattern without the inner leg
seam, to preserve your legs while in the saddle. Does anyone know where
to find this kind of pattern?
> That might be what you sayd in you original request, but I have
never seen a pare of jeans stitched that way. Wrangler always put their
"double" seam on the outside but still have a simple seam on the inside
and claim to be cowboy fashion. >
Another experience of mine is to make the waist tight enough to avoid
suspenders, especially if you use an underfoot strap. While in the
saddle, walking etc. that combination always keeps your legs looking
fit and your shoulders under constant pressure from the suspenders as
the foot straps pulls them down and your suspenders up. A couple of days
with that and at least I got sore shoulders.>
As for the stitches, its like Teton and Pat says, a welted saddle stitch
works best.>
>
Just a few thoughts. >
>
Char
>
> 2008-07-21 David Scott wrote:
>
> I made some narrow fall cloth pants I like a lot and I kept the
pattern. The only thing I'll change is the waist band, I want it wider
so it will take two buttons in front. I guess I'll sew inside out and
keep the stitches close to the edge, which I understand you can do with
leather.
> >
> >--- On Sun, 7/20/08, tetontodd@??? wrote:
> >From: tetontodd@???
> >Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Buck skin stitching
> >To: pat_quilter@???
> >Cc: davmscot@???, hist_text@???
> >Date: Sunday, July 20, 2008, 8:34 PM
> >
> >Dave
> >I concur with Pat on the stitching method and suggest you use a
welt on all seams. The welt can become fringe if you are inclined. I
also suggest a drop front pattern. They won't fit like blue jeans, but
they aren't supposed to.
> >Teton Tod
> >
> >-- "Pat Quilter" wrote:
> >Fancier technique is possible, but you will find acceptable
results by sewing the pants inside out, using saddle stitching (2
needles, thru awl-punched holes, 4-5 holes per inch). After turning
right side out, the leather will quickly pack down on either side of
this seam and yield a comfortable wear.
> >
> >Hopefully you know about pre-stretching commercial-tan hides,
and I recommend smooth side in for better wear and better look. There
are numerous patterns (number of seams etc), keeping in mind that jeans
have a lot of extra seams to conserve cloth and produce a tighter fit.
Getting the crotch right is the biggest challenge.
> >
> >Pat Quilter
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: hist_text-bounces@???
[mailto:hist_text-bounces@???] On Behalf Of David Scott
> >Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 3:36 PM
> >To: hist_text@???
> >Subject: MtMan-List: Buck skin stitching
> >
> >I'm thinking about making a pair of buck skin pantaloons. How
should the stitches be made? What I mean is this; on blue jeans the
seam is on the outside so it won't chaff your legs. On buck skins,
should the seam over lap? Be on the outside? Inside? All help
appreciated.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Hist_text mailing list
> >Hist_text@???
> >
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/hist_text
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Hist_text mailing list
> >Hist_text@???
> >
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/hist_text
> >
> >____________________________________________________________
> >
> >Don't let your life go up in flames. Click here for the latest
fire saftey products.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Hist_text mailing list
> >Hist_text@???
> >
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/hist_text
> >
> >
>
_______________________________________________
Hist_text mailing list
Hist_text@???
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/hist_text
